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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems like I recall seeing a pic of the factory fork bumpstop next to an aftermarket version, probably in one of Nick Stoltech's threads. I am 220 w gear, and this is the travel used on a fairly mild street ride of 160 miles the other day (I'm a street noob). Looks to me like the fork travel was on, or very close to hitting the bumpstop. Top of the zip tie is 32mm from the bottom of the slider. Zip tie on the shock is backed up to the bumpstop. Fork preload is maxed, with rebound 1/4 turn from full. Shock is 1 notch from full preload, rebound 1/4 turn from full. I feel suspension is about as important as safety gear, as it can make the difference in keeping, or losing control in this high consequence activity. I'm currently researching options, and this site is my #1 resource. Thanks to all contributing here.
IMG_2931.jpg
 

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nope, you've still got a bit of travel left. i've had my ziptie down to maybe 10-12mm above the bottom part of the fork.

some really hard braking should do it.
 

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Nope you're not there yet. I don't have pics handy, but you can pause this clip to get an idea.

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, Guys. Good to know there's something left there while I figure out what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Much appreciated, Guys. I've ordered Paul Thede's suspension book. I'm going to buy a spring/shim kit and modify the stock cart. Up to this point, I've never modded a fork beyond spring & oil change, but I want the option to make changes without waiting on shipping & lead times. Stoltech has some great options, tells me his G3 cartridge kit is GTG, and his Penske shocks sound awesome. His setup is a buy once, cry once, easy DIY solution with no need to send parts in. Very tempting, but I need to slow down on the budget after paying for this bike, and all the other gear etc. to get started in street. I can always upgrade further later, while my wallet cools down a bit. I'm looking forward to getting my feet wetter in suspension tuning, and that will be useful elsewhere as well. BTW, Racetech is custom modding the stock shock for $525. For the DIY guys, they include extra shim parts with their fork shim kit, and are doing 15% off for forum members.
 

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.... BTW, Racetech is custom modding the stock shock for $525. For the DIY guys, they include extra shim parts with their fork shim kit, and are doing 15% off for forum members.
Thanks for the tip.... I don't know those guys and Nick from Stoltech is my preferred suspension go-to geek. Not only is he explaining openly his modifications and gains for his mods, but his fair prices do the rest. Glad I'm 3-4 day's away from him... :evil6:
 

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Have patience my man! I have been doing my own forks and shock for years on my dirtbikes. It's not an easy thing to do, well for me it was not. Trial and error is the best way to describe it.

Maybe you should try to go to a heavier oil weight for the forks first. That might just save you some frustration, just a suggestion. If that don't work then try a different shim stack, ALL Yamaha forks are the same PERIOD! What's different is what's on the inside. Take a look at http://racetech.com/html_files/GVWHYGV.html, they sell what's called a "GOLDVALVE" that's a proprietary system of theirs. I have used it in my KTM 300 with good success. Remember that suspension is a easy thing to get right as long as you understand what you are trying to do. Cannon RaceCraft Inc. - Motorcycle, Car and Custom Springs sells springs for the shock and forks. You might want to give them a try, they can make springs for you if they don't have what you need.

Good luck with your adventure.

Chop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good suggestions, chop. Springs and heavier oil would be an improvement. Terry at Racetech mentioned that just changing to a quality oil can be a big improvement over the factory fill. Got me wondering if springs and some 7.5 wt oil might be close to a gold valve shimstack w the recommended 5 wt.
 

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You could start there, but remember, get the susp nice and warm then make your opinion on what's next. Go hard into the corners and over a variety of roads. What is the bike doing? The object is to keep the wheel on the ground and having a plush ride. Once you get that, lights out baby!!
 

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Good suggestions, chop. Springs and heavier oil would be an improvement. Terry at Racetech mentioned that just changing to a quality oil can be a big improvement over the factory fill. Got me wondering if springs and some 7.5 wt oil might be close to a gold valve shimstack w the recommended 5 wt.
http://www.fz09.org/forum/31-stoltec-moto/1287-fork-products-services-2.html
In this thread Nick of Stoltec rates the various levels of fork upgrades. Depending on your weight, riding etc the springs + oil are a great improvement.
 

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I picked this thread up not long after getting my 2016 and the fork is getting the same travel. I think the factory oil level maybe too high since I feel shots from the front end going over sharp ripples and riding in and out of fairly shallow depressions in the pavement. The front end is still on the factory preload and rebound settings. If the springs are so weak, why don't I get full travel?
 
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