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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like the title states, it appears there is an oil weep at the front (and only the front from what I can see) of the oil pan gasket / pan seem that I just noticed after switching to full synthetic oil. Up until now I've always used Yamaha 10-40 std oil and OEM filters on my FZ, which now has nearly 6k miles. I guess I should also mention I switched to a K&N Oil Filter on this latest oil change.

Is this just a coincidence or is it weeping due to the nature of synthetic oil having the typically positive attribute of making it's way to areas of the engine for better lubrication? I checked the service manual, torque is 7ft lbs, and knowing this I gave the front bolts a quick tighten by feel without a torque wrench, yet the weep continues. Anyone else out there experiencing this? Even though its still under warranty, I'm not sure I like the idea of having the dealer look into this with having to drop the exhaust, etc, to gain access to the pan bolts to drop. If a gasket is change is needed, I think I'd prefer to do it myself.
Let me know what you think, thanks!
IMAG0958.jpg
 

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Looking fwd to hearing what folks have to say about this one.
Switched to Syn here...but haven't ridden yet. (winter)

(Correction: been running Yama's syn...but switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W40. No leaks with Yama.)
 

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You can add an oil dye to the crank case and find out where the leak is starting. Just to make sure it's the gasket and not a porosity/crack in the case or pan. I'm not trying to freak you out. just trying to make sure if you decide to change the pan gasket your time is well spent. I have seen some strange things over the years. Make sure you clean the whole area off with brake parts cleaner and blow off with a air gun.
 

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Zero chance that's related to the oil itself. Still not very likely you caused it at all. Take it to the dealer for a warranty fix, even if you're out of time on the standard 1 year, Yamaha would be likely to fix it anyway, if the dealer is willing to call it in.
 

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Degrease the whole area with spray brake parts cleaner then give the suspect area light shot of $1 store aerosol foot spray. It's mostly talc, won't hurt a thing, will wash off and'll show an oil track, if there is one.
 

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This is following along the same lines as edgyver; you could have a fluorescent penetrant (liquid penetrant) inspection performed of the suspect area. Some machine shops, welding shops, NDT services or local colleges that offer courses in non destructive testing might help. The only reason I submit this method over edgyver's is that it's more readily identifiable if there is a defect present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looking fwd to hearing what folks have to say about this one.
Switched to Syn here...but haven't ridden yet. (winter)

(Correction: been running Yama's syn...but switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W40. No leaks with Yama.)
Interesting, as I just heard about someone else using the T6 Shell Rotella in their bike. Its really a diesel oil but yet works fine (if not great) in wet clutch motorcycle applications. AND, like 20 bucks a gallon??!! I may be switching oil types on the next change.
 

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Interesting, as I just heard about someone else using the T6 Shell Rotella in their bike. Its really a diesel oil but yet works fine (if not great) in wet clutch motorcycle applications. AND, like 20 bucks a gallon??!! I may be switching oil types on the next change.
Been using it for years, no prob.
 
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Update: In a case of practice what you preach, the Super Tenere started leaking oil ever so slightly around the clutch cover. I was 60 miles from home Thursday when I noticed it. So, I called my Yamaha dealer buddy and he was baffled. The bike's too new and has had zero damage/work. "Have you tried cleaning the area with brake cleaner and dusting it with baby powder?" =)
I got home and did just that before taking a short ride to give it a chance. Well, it worked once more.
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After cleaning and dusting with talc, the mystery was solved!
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Turns out some of the 2012s had either a longish dowel pin or the holes weren't deep enough - not allowing the cover to completely seal by only the tiniest amount. Eventually, it'll leak and mine did.
 
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Update: In a case of practice what you preach, the Super Tenere started leaking oil ever so slightly around the clutch cover. I was 60 miles from home Thursday when I noticed it. So, I called my Yamaha dealer buddy and he was baffled. The bike's too new and has had zero damage/work. "Have you tried cleaning the area with brake cleaner and dusting it with baby powder?" =)
I got home and did just that before taking a short ride to give it a chance. Well, it worked once more.
View attachment 13547
After cleaning and dusting with talc, the mystery was solved!
View attachment 13548
Turns out some of the 2012s had either a longish dowel pin or the holes weren't deep enough - not allowing the cover to completely seal by only the tiniest amount. Eventually, it'll leak and mine did.
Did you grind the pin down a bit?
 

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Did you grind the pin down a bit?
Yes, we did! =)
In fact, Yamaha asked the dealer to document the length of the pins, depth of the holes in the case and cover, etc...
The mating surfaces between the engine and cover were at an angle. So, we took depth measurements at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. The hole over all depth + the gasket thickness was right at or even ever so slightly less than the dowel pin length.
The OEM magnesium cover had actually cracked at the lower dowel pin area. =(
Yamaha came to the rescue on a new cover and gasket! Seems mine wasn't the only one out there that'd leaked for the same apparent reason. It's super rare. But, if stuff doesn't fit. It doesn't fit.
The replacement cover had hole depths the same as the original. So, we chucked the dowel pins up in a drill and spun it while holding the pin against a bench grinding wheel. A few mm off did the trick. =)
IMG_8188.jpg 0219151259-00.jpg
 

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I've used synthetics on many vehicles for many years, never caused a leak. Rechecked the bolt torques.
 
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