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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

I did my first oil change yesterday morning, and the manual says 43Nm for the oil drain bolt. This seems crazy high to me! My Ninja is the highest I've seen before, at 29Nm. The drain bolt on the FZ was extremely tight, tough to get off, but it would have went in dry at the factory. I put it back on at 29Nm because now it has oil on it (plus that's how high my 3/8" drive torque wrench goes and I didn't want to use the 1/2" drive wrench). It's not leaking...

What torque does everyone else use? Next time I change the oil I think I'll drill it so I can safety wire it anyway for peace of mind.

Thanks
 

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I tighten mine by hand, with a combination wrench, then give it a whack or two with a rubber mallet. I've never had a problem. Did you replace the crush washer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I didn't. I usually don't. I've only ever had a leak after reusing the crush washer once in my life. That said, I'll be buying a handful of them next time I need to change the oil.

Seriously you hit it with a rubber mallet? That's scarier than 43Nm. The last thing you want is to crack the casting or strip the threads.
 

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I hand tighten and leave it be. Never had any leaking issues.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

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No I didn't. I usually don't. I've only ever had a leak after reusing the crush washer once in my life. That said, I'll be buying a handful of them next time I need to change the oil.

Seriously you hit it with a rubber mallet? That's scarier than 43Nm. The last thing you want is to crack the casting or strip the threads.
Seriously. I'm an ol' timey millwright...I kinda have a feel for these things. I can't remember the last time I cross-threaded or stripped a fastener. The crush washers are cheap.
 

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Hi folks,

I did my first oil change yesterday morning, and the manual says 43Nm for the oil drain bolt. This seems crazy high to me! My Ninja is the highest I've seen before, at 29Nm. The drain bolt on the FZ was extremely tight, tough to get off, but it would have went in dry at the factory. I put it back on at 29Nm because now it has oil on it (plus that's how high my 3/8" drive torque wrench goes and I didn't want to use the 1/2" drive wrench). It's not leaking...

What torque does everyone else use? Next time I change the oil I think I'll drill it so I can safety wire it anyway for peace of mind.

Thanks
I had the exact same issue and concern, I brought mine up to about 5-6ft lbs under recommended and called it a day. Getting the bitch off in the first place was a bugger too - so damn tight.

I usually replace the washers every second oil change so it stayed on this time.
 

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No kidding.... To get it off I had to add a 24mm spanner to my ratchet for leverage (hook the ring end over the ratchet handle).
That's a good way to break a ratchet, and yer knuckles if it slips. I'd recommend using a breaker bar.

Mine was very tight too, nothing a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet couldn't loosen though. The filter put up a better fight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's a good way to break a ratchet, and yer knuckles if it slips. I'd recommend using a breaker bar.

Mine was very tight too, nothing a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet couldn't loosen though. The filter put up a better fight.
One of these days I'll buy a breaker bar. I've been using that method for a long time. Not quite an ol' timey millwright, but I've got a good feel for those sorts of things too. :)
 

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Mine was way over tighten at the factory. I have a handful of crush washers from my Bonneville left over.

Used my calibrated Craftsman ratchet to tighten, with no issues. I'm sure not as tight as factory specs.
 

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I never thought to check that spec. In 43 years of wrenching machines, I typically only use a torque wrench on lug nuts and major engine assemblies. Guess you tend develop a feel for common fasteners after a while. I've never had a problem, but having said that, it would suck to lose a drain plug :angel9:
 

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I do mine by feel also, on every bike that I've ever owned (26 of them) and I've never had a leak. I've also NEVER, EVER replaced a crush washer and I've never had a leak from one! I'm either Lucky.......or ........Good....I'll let y'all decide! :cool:
 
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Here's a secret from The Ancient Masters:

Keep a moderate amount of torque with a combo or box end wrench.

While doing so, tap rapidly on fastener to create vibration till wrench gives.

You're not using hammer on wrench in direction of torque.

You would be hitting straight down on fastener / plug creating vibration.

This has worked in situations where excess torque would have just rounded off fastener.

This has worked on examples like the valve caps and oil drain plugs on 1970's Honda CB 350, 450, etc. , where the

contact surface to case was much larger than the the hex provided to turn it.
 
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Hi folks,

I did my first oil change yesterday morning, and the manual says 43Nm for the oil drain bolt. This seems crazy high to me! My Ninja is the highest I've seen before, at 29Nm. The drain bolt on the FZ was extremely tight, tough to get off, but it would have went in dry at the factory. I put it back on at 29Nm because now it has oil on it (plus that's how high my 3/8" drive torque wrench goes and I didn't want to use the 1/2" drive wrench). It's not leaking...

What torque does everyone else use? Next time I change the oil I think I'll drill it so I can safety wire it anyway for peace of mind.

Thanks

Seems about right.. I work for Toyota and there oil drain plugs call for the same spec and they're smaller plugs then Yamaha's.. It also seem like its tighter then it is because your wrenching from above vs from below (overhead lift).. I find it hard to believe a 3/8 torque wrench maxes at 20ft/lbs.. That's where my 3/8 torque wrench starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Seems about right.. I work for Toyota and there oil drain plugs call for the same spec and they're smaller plugs then Yamaha's.. It also seem like its tighter then it is because your wrenching from above vs from below (overhead lift).. I find it hard to believe a 3/8 torque wrench maxes at 20ft/lbs.. That's where my 3/8 torque wrench starts.
I bought that torque wrench specifically because it has very low torques. Going by feel for stuff over 40Nm, where you're unlikely to break anything unless you're really cranking on it, is okay by me too, but for low torques of things like steel bolts into cast aluminum with oil all over the threads the feel can vary hugely. Not worth the risk in my books.
 
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