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Ohlins NIX 30 Street or Andreani

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Discussion Starter #21
Is it cumulative? I mean now is on 15%. Never bought anything from them.... There is mental barrier for me to spend 1000+€, but for 9xx€
(with spring)...
No 20% is total, so €962 incl original ohlins spring and shipped to The Netherlands.
 

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To be honest, if you can't sort out the wobble issue and it's the main reason you're thinking of the Ohlins, I'd be looking at a quality steering damper first. It's band aid, but it'll give you confidence.
 
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The wobble comes from weight transferring backwards. Ohlins front fork carts wont fix that, but a rear shock will.

When you accelerate, weight goes back.
Which takes the weight off the front.
Which means the front wheel starts skipping across the road surface.
Which can cause the wheel to flick back and forth. Or wobble.
So you need to control the weight transfer.
Better rear shock that actually dampens the comp and rebound is the biggest step.
Then fronts, but preferable both at once.
 

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No. I have ya535 with 115N/mm. Issue is front.
I have persistant wobble that start at 180km/h. I can accelerate slow to 180km/h and get it. Some kind of oscilations that start to add up.
I think it is front?.

Do you have that with nix?
 

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Have you tried more ride height at the rear, or dropped the triple clamps? I have 12mm more rear height.
This'll put more weight on the front.
 
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No. I have ya535 with 115N/mm. Issue is front.
I have persistant wobble that start at 180km/h. I can accelerate slow to 180km/h and get it. Some kind of oscilations that start to add up.
I think it is front?.

Do you have that with nix?
No, but i also never had it with a stoltec FPK and penske on my 2014 either.

Oscilations in the front is the symptom, the cause is weight transfer to the back.
What are your sag settings?
 

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Rearsets will also put more weight on the front.

The stock pegs are quite low. If you move the pegs up and back, that will mean you bend your knees more.and move your feet back
If you bend your knees more and move your feet back, that will roll your hips forward.
If you roll your hips forward, it makes you lean forward which gets more weight on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm going to intentionally hijack just a little bit.....would you mind sharing what spring rate you have on your shock and what your static (no rider) and rider sag figures are for the rear?
To come back at your question. Rear static sag is 10mm and rider sag 40mm.. i had to measure it by myself, so it’s not very accurate but should give a estimate
 

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I think you'll find your real-life numbers are quite a bit different than those if you have someone help you measure accurately. Mathematically if those were your numbers you would have to weigh close to 600lbs.
 

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I think you'll find your real-life numbers are quite a bit different than those if you have someone help you measure accurately. Mathematically if those were your numbers you would have to weigh close to 600lbs.
No, they're similar to mine and I'm not 600lbs. Static 11 Rider 38 I do know how the measure sag too.
 

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Have you tried more ride height at the rear, or dropped the triple clamps? I have 12mm more rear height.
This'll put more weight on the front.
I know. But the problem is that way you put your man parts on tank. I dont even like leveled fealing (stock seat). I think that damper is band aid. And by going front down i get to much oversteer+slides on rear when accelerating.
Maybe ask 2 much...i know how good bike should behave...and it is so hard and expensive to do that on MT09.
 

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Well, you really have a problem if all the normal fixes can't/don't work for you.
Dropping the triple clamps should not reduce traction at the rear. Raising rear ride height usually does that by increasing anti squat.
I'm out of ideas, but throwing expensive parts at it and hoping is going to get expensive.
 

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I know. But the problem is that way you put your man parts on tank. I dont even like leveled fealing (stock seat). I think that damper is band aid. And by going front down i get to much oversteer+slides on rear when accelerating.
Maybe ask 2 much...i know how good bike should behave...and it is so hard and expensive to do that on MT09.
I'd try the bike attitude adjustments - you should be able to deal with the uncomfortable man parts long enought to know if it fixes your wobble issue. If it does then perhaps a new/custom seat would be the best fix so that you can sit level even thought he bike is slightly pitched forward....or I think I read something about someone putting some spacers under the seat-subframe to level it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I haven’t really experienced this high speer wobble so won’t know if the nix cartridges will fix this..
 

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It's a system based approach. Adjust one thing, it effects another. Finding the balance for yourself without knowing what it is, it's time consuming.

Going about it the correct systematic way with patience is key.
 
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I know. But the problem is that way you put your man parts on tank. I dont even like leveled fealing (stock seat). I think that damper is band aid. And by going front down i get to much oversteer+slides on rear when accelerating.
Did you try the option that @LouG suggested? Raising the forks 5-8mm would barely be perceptible and surely not enough to shift your whole body forward into the tank.
 

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I think Zaira just wants us to validate what he'll do regardless. No suggestion seems to suit him.
 
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It's a system based approach. Adjust one thing, it effects another. Finding the balance for yourself without knowing what it is, it's time consuming.

Going about it the correct systematic way with patience is key.
This.
I spent Monday morning (public holiday down here) doing laps of a short section of the old pacific highway and twiddling suspension knobs to get a good balance of plush for potholes and taut for handling.
One thing effecting another is right- I have the front rebound fairly quick to work for potholes, but stiffened up the rear low speed compression to control the backwards weight transfer after braking.
 

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I do respect your answers. Loweering front reduces wobble. I tryed it and it helps. Same as going down on tank when it hapens. I want to understand the root couse of the problem. I think it is forks. For shure reducing front and adding damper will eliminate it.
 
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