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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first big bike, other than my Ninja 300 i had on restricted license, so i am only new to this stuff, be gentle ;).
So when it comes to breaking it in, ive followed the dealers and manuals instructions, but as ive been browsing the forums, and seen the support for the hard break in method, im a little at a loss.
Ive only got 300 miles on the bike at the moment and recently changed the oil.
So basically my question is, where to go with the break in from here. Do i continue to follow manual instructions, or if i start to ride the bike harder will it do damage as it hasnt been ridden hard from the start?
Before you rip me apart, i have searched the forums for answers and cant find anything to help with my specific question.
 

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The only advice I can give is:
Vary the RPMs within a reasonable range. (when the engine is new and super tight, there is concern for overheating at higher RPMs until the proper clearances have formed)
Change the oil if it looks dirty (opaque or cloudy).
YMMV... that's all I've got on the subject! ;)
 

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Follow the instructions in the owners manual. I'm guessing the engineers who developed the motorcycle may have a better idea of what it takes to properly "break-in" the engine than anyone on this forum. Of course, you can take random advise from this column. Let us know how that works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The only advice I can give is:
Vary the RPMs within a reasonable range. (when the engine is new and super tight, there is concern for overheating at higher RPMs until the proper clearances have formed)
Change the oil if it looks dirty (opaque or cloudy).
YMMV... that's all I've got on the subject! ;)
That's what I've been doing, not riding it like I stole it, not riding it like granny on a Sunday drive. Varying revs, not letting it over head idling. just reading and some people seem so avid on the hard break it I felt like I was doing something wrong.
 

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For break-in, I made sure I did lots of gear shifting, lots of engine braking (especially in the first 50 miles) varied the revs a lot, and made sure the engine didn't lug.

On a general note, since this is your first larger capacity bike, and keeping in mind these are ridiculously quick, I would avoid the temptation to "ride it like you stole it" until you have very many miles on it, and a lot of experience in the saddle. Inexperienced riders on a bike with this kind of zip can get into an awful lot of trouble very quickly. Ride safely.
 

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Before you rip me apart, i have searched the forums for answers and cant find anything to help with my specific question.
That's because everyone will have a different opinion on the matter. This thread could go 109 pages and you still will be wondering "so how is the right way"? Is your bike, don't worry about it. Go and enjoy riding it man, that's it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys. Pretty comfortable with how I've been going. And trust me, after coming off the ninja, even half throttle feels like a moto go bike :D
 

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the first 30 miles my bike spent was an average speed of about 70 to 75 on the way home from the dealer and with 5500 miles running like a champ and burning no oil.

image.jpg

pic of the bike 0 miles purchased from beach blvd motorsports
 

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Follow the instructions in the owners manual. I'm guessing the engineers who developed the motorcycle may have a better idea of what it takes to properly "break-in" the engine than anyone on this forum. Of course, you can take random advise from this column. Let us know how that works out for you.
I beg to differ. The only thing that they can put in print is what any moron can follow without causing backlash. Performance tuners never ever follow the suggested Break-in procedures, and neither will I. That procedure is seriously dated.
 

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I drive mine how I want. I do vary the rpm's a lot and try not to ring the hell out of it too much. For the most part, I ride like I plan to ride after the break in. Never had an issue.
 

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Doug's post is on point. The 'follow the service manual' crowd are usually the same guys that think synthetic oil is 'too slippery' for break-in.
 

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For break-in, I made sure I did lots of gear shifting, lots of engine braking (especially in the first 50 miles) varied the revs a lot, and made sure the engine didn't lug.

On a general note, since this is your first larger capacity bike, and keeping in mind these are ridiculously quick, I would avoid the temptation to "ride it like you stole it" until you have very many miles on it, and a lot of experience in the saddle. Inexperienced riders on a bike with this kind of zip can get into an awful lot of trouble very quickly. Ride safely.
yep. This, exactly. I'm somewhere near 8k (or slightly over, I need to look) and my bike leaks and burns not a drop.
 

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Doug's post is on point. The 'follow the service manual' crowd are usually the same guys that think synthetic oil is 'too slippery' for break-in.
That's why Dave at Redline oils advises waiting 1500-2000 miles for the rings to seat before switching to their products..

The break in instructions are guidelines for some poor sap to familiarize himself with the bike before going out and hurting himself, only to follow up with a lawsuit. Imagine if Yamaha's break instructions were to redline the bike off and on for the first 50 miles, then change the oil.

These engines get their R&D in the race circuit and have been developed as such. Track day break in is best. If you can't get to a track, canyon riding is second best. Use mineral oil for first 2k miles and change it when. It starts to look like coffee.
 

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That's why Dave at Redline oils advises waiting 1500-2000 miles for the rings to seat before switching to their products..

The break in instructions are guidelines for some poor sap to familiarize himself with the bike before going out and hurting himself, only to follow up with a lawsuit. Imagine if Yamaha's break instructions were to redline the bike off and on for the first 50 miles, then change the oil.

These engines get their R&D in the race circuit and have been developed as such. Track day break in is best. If you can't get to a track, canyon riding is second best. Use mineral oil for first 2k miles and change it when. It starts to look like coffee.
I can see synthetic maybe slowing down the break-in process if you're following the manual, but if you use the motoman method, it's not going to matter if you're running synthetic or not. There are quite a few bikes that ship from the factory full of synthetic.
 

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I can see synthetic maybe slowing down the break-in process if you're following the manual, but if you use the motoman method, it's not going to matter if you're running synthetic or not. There are quite a few bikes that ship from the factory full of synthetic.
I fully agree with the motoman method and have had no ill results, but there are other items that take longer periods to break-in. Camshaft lobes to valve tappets, gears, and everything in between. I've also used the factory method and have had no ill results. New motors with integrated transmission tend to shear oil quicker due to tighter tolerances. As the motor loosens up, the oil doesn't shear as quickly and your oil change intervals extend. Use the cheap stuff for break in, save the synthetic for longer drain intervals
 

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I fully agree with the motoman method and have had no ill results, but there are other items that take longer periods to break-in. Camshaft lobes to valve tappets, gears, and everything in between. I've also used the factory method and have had no ill results. New motors with integrated transmission tend to shear oil quicker due to tighter tolerances. As the motor loosens up, the oil doesn't shear as quickly and your oil change intervals extend. Use the cheap stuff for break in, save the synthetic for longer drain intervals
I do use the cheap stuff...T6. :D

Motoman w/factory oil for 150 miles, then change to oil of choice. That's my story and I'm...persistent?
 
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