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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having several issues with my bike. First is the CCT. Is it normal for it to be so loud on cold start? It goes away mostly when the bike is at operating temperature.

Another thing that has me concerned is the clutch not fully disengaging when lever is pulled in (or so I think). When holding clutch lever in and shifting in the first the rear will spin, and when shifting gears the speed will keep increasing even with the clutch lever pulled in. Specifically @ 30 seconds, you can see me holding the clutch and the wheel spinning very fast. @ 1 minute mark I shift through all the gears while holding the clutch and the speed keeps increasing.
 

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You can't gauge clutch operation with it sitting on a stand. The clutch plates along with an oil bath/film will always transfer energy, thus your tire will turn regardless if the clutch is open or closed. Simply shut off the bike, take it off the stand, put it in gear (first or second) and see if you can roll the bike with the lever pulled. if you can, then see how much lever travel is required to engage the clutch and thus apply energy to a non-operating engine. My clutch will fully engage about 1/2 of the lever travel and thus I can no longer move the bike. If so, then your clutch operation is fine.

Also, at the far end of the clutch cable, you will find the clutch operating arm, with a coiled spring. Take you finger and push this arm in until in contacts the internal clutch push rod. You should find a slight amount of "free play" with this arm, which indicates proper free-play movement and disengagement. If there is no free play, or excessive free play, then adjust the cable ends to remove or increase cable slack.

Remember, those clutch plates open just a tiny amount...another reason I never leave my bike in gear (with the clutch lever pulled in) for extended periods. Rather I put it into neutral and leave the lever out. Also, whenever I first start my bike (when engine is cold) I always pull in the clutch lever, blip the throttle, and then place the bike in gear. That way the engine will "free-up" the sticking clutch plates, prior to snapping it into gear.
 

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re: CCT That's what mine sounded like. Just got it fixed by the Yam shop, for free. So I'd say it's normal. From what I've read here it gets nothing but worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
re: CCT That's what mine sounded like. Just got it fixed by the Yam shop, for free. So I'd say it's normal. From what I've read here it gets nothing but worse.
My bike is still under warranty so I think I'll take it in for them to do that. How long did they keep your bike to fix the cct?
 

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My bike is still under warranty so I think I'll take it in for them to do that. How long did they keep your bike to fix the cct?
If they say it needs a new CCT I would not leave the bike. Have them order the part and then come back. It's a fairly quick job, but they need the part.
 

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clutch drag is normal. as long as the bike isn't trying to pull forward when you're sitting on it at a light with the clutch pulled in, you're fine.

the rear wheel rotating on the stand is actually a good thing - it means your wheel bearings are in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can't gauge clutch operation with it sitting on a stand. The clutch plates along with an oil bath/film will always transfer energy, thus your tire will turn regardless if the clutch is open or closed. Simply shut off the bike, take it off the stand, put it in gear (first or second) and see if you can roll the bike with the lever pulled. if you can, then see how much lever travel is required to engage the clutch and thus apply energy to a non-operating engine. My clutch will fully engage about 1/2 of the lever travel and thus I can no longer move the bike. If so, then your clutch operation is fine.

Also, at the far end of the clutch cable, you will find the clutch operating arm, with a coiled spring. Take you finger and push this arm in until in contacts the internal clutch push rod. You should find a slight amount of "free play" with this arm, which indicates proper free-play movement and disengagement. If there is no free play, or excessive free play, then adjust the cable ends to remove or increase cable slack.

Remember, those clutch plates open just a tiny amount...another reason I never leave my bike in gear (with the clutch lever pulled in) for extended periods. Rather I put it into neutral and leave the lever out. Also, whenever I first start my bike (when engine is cold) I always pull in the clutch lever, blip the throttle, and then place the bike in gear. That way the engine will "free-up" the sticking clutch plates, prior to snapping it into gear.
My clutch seems to engage slightly pass 1/2 of the lever travel when rolling it. The arm has free play when the clutch lever is not pulled. When I pull in the clutch lever there is no free play and the arm cannot travel any further no matter how tight or how loose my clutch cable is
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do a ton of clutch wheelies and want to make sure that everything is still functioning normal. I got the idea to put bike on stand and do this to see if it spins while in gear when a buddy complained to me about his fz6r doing the same thing. I told him to stop worrying its normal, then went home and tried it on my bike and now I'm paranoid :rolleyes:
 

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My tire spins a little on the rear stand. CCT with clatter for upwards of a minute (this is normal). If it doesn't go away, it's likely shot - if it's under warranty you can try your luck and have Yamaha replace for free (I went this route and have been fine 6k strong now - others have had the second fail as well). Ape makes a manual tensioner that everyone seems to be happy with. Marthy wrote up a very thorough install thread on here if you search for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
My tire spins a little on the rear stand. CCT with clatter for upwards of a minute (this is normal). If it doesn't go away, it's likely shot - if it's under warranty you can try your luck and have Yamaha replace for free (I went this route and have been fine 6k strong now - others have had the second fail as well). Ape makes a manual tensioner that everyone seems to be happy with. Marthy wrote up a very thorough install thread on here if you search for it.
I was looking into the manual cct. If mine is shot I'll try my luck at convincing the dealership to install the manual cct that I will provide.
 

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My clutch seems to engage slightly pass 1/2 of the lever travel when rolling it. The arm has free play when the clutch lever is not pulled. When I pull in the clutch lever there is no free play and the arm cannot travel any further no matter how tight or how loose my clutch cable is
Normal. As long as you have some free play, it means that your cable is not too tight. And as long as the free play is minimal, it also means that your cable is not too loose. Now, doing a bunch of clutch wheelies is a different issue....
 

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My bike is still under warranty so I think I'll take it in for them to do that. How long did they keep your bike to fix the cct?
That's a sore subject with me. They had it two and a half weeks. Said they had the part but needed to get approval from Yamaha before they could start the work.

It was during June when it seemed to rain everyday anyway. And they've been an exclusive Yamaha dealer for 50 yrs. Almost bought a YZ100 from them in the 70's.

They're good guys so I trust them. www.breyleyyamaha.com
 

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When the bike is on a stand and the engine and oil is cold (ambient temperature) the rear tire/wheel will spin some. Try putting the bike on the rear stand after you go for a 15 or 20 minute ride and and see if it spins while in neutral......chances are that it won't. Another thing that will cause the clutch to not disengage is an overfilled crankcase oil level......check that also and if the oil is above the top line when the bike is perfectly level up and down, you may want to loosen the drain plug and very slowly let some oil out. Make sure that you don't let out too much oil though as the FZ09 is pretty finicky about oil level and if it's much below the top line, you'll get an engine oil light on.......on the instrument cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When the bike is on a stand and the engine and oil is cold (ambient temperature) the rear tire/wheel will spin some. Try putting the bike on the rear stand after you go for a 15 or 20 minute ride and and see if it spins while in neutral......chances are that it won't. Another thing that will cause the clutch to not disengage is an overfilled crankcase oil level......check that also and if the oil is above the top line when the bike is perfectly level up and down, you may want to loosen the drain plug and very slowly let some oil out. Make sure that you don't let out too much oil though as the FZ09 is pretty finicky about oil level and if it's much below the top line, you'll get an engine oil light on.......on the instrument cluster.
But my wheel spins when the bike is in gear while the clutch lever pulled in, not in neutral.
 

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But my wheel spins when the bike is in gear while the clutch lever pulled in, not in neutral.
That too is normal with a cold engine/transmission/oil. The question is this. When the engine oil, transmission, everything is totally warmed up, like after a 15 or 20 minute ride and you put it up on the rear stand with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in.....does the rear tire spin? By spin I mean.....like just barely moving forward or is it rotating like it would be if you were in gear and riding. If it's spinning and cannot be stopped with say your foot lightly against the tire, then most like the clutch is not fully disengaging completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That too is normal with a cold engine/transmission/oil. The question is this. When the engine oil, transmission, everything is totally warmed up, like after a 15 or 20 minute ride and you put it up on the rear stand with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in.....does the rear tire spin? By spin I mean.....like just barely moving forward or is it rotating like it would be if you were in gear and riding. If it's spinning and cannot be stopped with say your foot lightly against the tire, then most like the clutch is not fully disengaging completely.
When the bike is hot, after a ride, it does the exact same thing. No movement in neutral. Holding clutch in and shifting in to 1st, it will start to spin without stopping. If I tap the rear brake and keep holding the clutch lever in it will stop and will not spin again until I release the clutch and pull in back in again.
 

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That's pretty much normal........Did you carefully check your oil level with the engine cold? It doesn't take much on being over the top line for the oil to cause the clutch to slightly engage
 
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