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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after a week of non riding, I did a good wash (garden hose, no pressure washer) and then tried to start the bike. It almost went on the second turn but no go. The crank speed seem a little low.

Did put my .75 amps battery tender on it and 30 minutes later light was geen so I did try to start it again.... No much success. It was still cranking slow.

Dis a few start test with an RV aux battery hook up to bike battery (kick stand up, clutch in, 2-3 punch in the seat, etc...) Still nothing

End up hooking my car battery charger on the bike battery with the switch at 75 amp to boost when starting a car...

The starter is crancking at a pretty good speen but nothing, the bike is not even tring to fire up and it start to smell gas...

I would like to go and check the spark plug but tham they are a pain in the ass go get access to.

Would propably end up bring the bike at the dealer but in the mean time any suggestion? (And then again how to roll it in the truck bed without power...)

Arggghhhhh!
 

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Does AAA service Canada?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeap overhere they call it CAA but i'm not a member. Should have say that the bike isnstill under warranty until october 2nd...
 

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Yeap overhere they call it CAA but i'm not a member. Should have say that the bike isnstill under warranty until october 2nd...
Join CAA today, Now. Once you're a Member you're All Set. It's pays for itself immediately :)
 

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Yeah thats true. If you call a tow truck it will cost just as much as a full year of CAA.
 

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Please let us know what the problem was once you get it running.
 

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Did you hear the whirrrrrrrr of the fuel pump? Is there an error code on the display? Maybe just a fuse?
 

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First, this is one reason I never hose my streetbikes off unless they get lots of mud on them somehow. I wipe them down with furniture polish about once a week. Cheap, easy and not water getting into places I don't want it to go.

I would not recommend using your battery charger in the 75 amp mode. That is not good for your motorcycle's charging system. You might fry the rectifier doing that.

Remember the FZ09 rectifier is only meant to deal with about 35-40 amps or so that the FZ09 alternator can produce. The extra 35 amps you were feeding it could very well fry the rectifier.

This is why you do not jump a motorcycle with the car with the car's engine running because the car's charging system (typically about 75-120 amps) can fry your motorcycle's rectifier.

Have you done any work on the bike since it last ran?

Basics:
Check all the fuses under the seat and under the right air scoop?
Key is on or it would not have been spinning
Engine cutoff switch is on because it can't be off on the FZ09 if you are starting the engine
Sidestand switch - sidestand is up does not mean the sidestand switch is indicating to the ecu that the sidestand is up but if the bike is in neutral, the sidestand should not matter.
Is the clutch pulled in when you are trying to start the bike?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you hear the whirrrrrrrr of the fuel pump? Is there an error code on the display? Maybe just a fuse?
Yes the whirrrrrrr of the fuel pumpnis present. In fact I always kill the engine with the key, so each time I put the key back on the fuel pump is priming.

No error code on the display.

Thanks for trying
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First, this is one reason I never hose my streetbikes off unless they get lots of mud on them somehow. I wipe them down with furniture polish about once a week. Cheap, easy and not water getting into places I don't want it to go.

I would not recommend using your battery charger in the 75 amp mode. That is not good for your motorcycle's charging system. You might fry the rectifier doing that.

Remember the FZ09 rectifier is only meant to deal with about 35-40 amps or so that the FZ09 alternator can produce. The extra 35 amps you were feeding it could very well fry the rectifier.

This is why you do not jump a motorcycle with the car with the car's engine running because the car's charging system (typically about 75-120 amps) can fry your motorcycle's rectifier.

Have you done any work on the bike since it last ran?

Basics:
Check all the fuses under the seat and under the right air scoop?
Key is on or it would not have been spinning
Engine cutoff switch is on because it can't be off on the FZ09 if you are starting the engine
Sidestand switch - sidestand is up does not mean the sidestand switch is indicating to the ecu that the sidestand is up but if the bike is in neutral, the sidestand should not matter.
Is the clutch pulled in when you are trying to start the bike?
Don't have much choice for the hose as I have a unpaved road to get home... but then again I did wash it the same manner as usual.

Rectifier, oups... thanks for saying, will omit this part when I will bring the battery to the dealer tomorrow...

I will go check the fuse later on.

Side stand, clutch, key, kill switch, have all been checked.

My battery seem to lost voltage. I've remote it. In the bike it show 13.37v and since I remove it the voltage is no 12.99v

Thanks for helping
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: Get the battery back from dealership. They check it out and they say battery pass all the test and is working fine. Went back home with it and hooknit up....

Bike won't start and the voltage is getting at a mid 11 volts when cranking. Yeap the bike seem (not sure about the English terms) gas flooded but cranking slower that usual.

Was starting to really upset... (btw dealer has no battery in stock and are charging 196$ CDN to order one, warranty is 3 months on battery) soooooooo....

I finally bring my Honda Ridgeline near by, pop the hood and hookup my boosting cable...

When I trigger the bike switch, the starter, well.... START!!! The bike was flodded, need 5 looonnggg try before getting it proprely started.

I went for a RIDE... I'm pretty sure they're is no more gas trace anywhere...

Stop the bike and start it 10 minutes later no problem.

I did but my battery tender on it and will let it do is job but I really think by battery is shot.

Will do more testing AFTER a week end of riding ;)
 

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I did but my battery tender on it and will let it do is job but I really think by battery is shot.
or a bad charging system. run a voltmeter across the battery terminals when the engine's running. at idle you should get around 14v. charging voltage should not exceed 15v at any rpm.

if the charging system's okay, then it's probably a bad battery. a weak starter or a bad connection to the starter are also possibilities, but less likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
or a bad charging system. run a voltmeter across the battery terminals when the engine's running. at idle you should get around 14v. charging voltage should not exceed 15v at any rpm.

if the charging system's okay, then it's probably a bad battery. a weak starter or a bad connection to the starter are also possibilities, but less likely.
Thanks for helping. I did chhek the voltage at idle and I was getting 14.13 volts and something like 14.17 volts at 3000 rpm. Sounds normal as per your comment.

Will keep the thread updated.

Thanks
 

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11V while cranking is a good batt. As long as it stays over 9V, it's good.
 
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