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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a tyre that is absolutely rock solid at high speeds?
I put the S22 a week ago and I'll replace them right away ,If i am absolutely sure for this.Can you assure some tyre ?
All the other aspects have been checked.
 

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No shake, install a steering damper/steering stabilizer.
Cheap one off of amazon that works great, FXCNC Racing. easy install too.
 

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Is there a tyre that is absolutely rock solid at high speeds?
I put the S22 a week ago and I'll replace them right away ,If i am absolutely sure for this.Can you assure some tyre ?
All the other aspects have been checked.
What high speeds? High speed to me is 130+ which is not practical for my open naked bike with upright riding position. So what is your version of fast? R1 Fast? 160+?
 

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105 to120 miles per hour
Yeah you shouldn't be experiencing shake beyond typical road imperfections. If the tire checks out make sure your rebound is not too fast. I refer to rebound as fast or slow which equates to Fast/More turns out and Slow Less turns out. There are many great videos on youtube that address compression/rebound and sag settings.

This can play a part in higher speed stability.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried today the tire pressures .With 36 , 42 as standard recommended the shake was violent from 165kms and on.Droping pressure at 33,36 or 2,2f and 2,5r the sake is minimal.Also I slowed the rebound a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After a ride today I saw that the shake begins at 175km/h now and goes on .I can't believe that I'm the only one with this problem!!!
 

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If you have height adjustable rear susp, try 10mm more ride height, or drop the forks in the triple clamps 10mm and try it. Very carefully.
Others have said this helps. I assume your wheels are properly balanced and aligned too?
 

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Never had any issues with my ContiRoad Attack 3's at any speeds.
 

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Check your alignment (I use a laser alignment tool) - this is absolutely critical and do not go by the marks on the swing arm as they are off. Check your tyre pressures as the factory pressures are for 2 up (the usual written by lawyers)- I use 33 f 30 R which is a couple of psi up on the recommended track pressures for my tyres. Have your tyre balance checked if all else has been tried.
 

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Check your alignment (I use a laser alignment tool) - this is absolutely critical and do not go by the marks on the swing arm as they are off. Check your tyre pressures as the factory pressures are for 2 up (the usual written by lawyers)- I use 33 f 30 R which is a couple of psi up on the recommended track pressures for my tyres. Have your tyre balance checked if all else has been tried.

33/30 on the street? Damn, I bet you wouldn't get too much mileage out of that!
 

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Check your alignment (I use a laser alignment tool) - this is absolutely critical and do not go by the marks on the swing arm as they are off. Check your tyre pressures as the factory pressures are for 2 up (the usual written by lawyers)- I use 33 f 30 R which is a couple of psi up on the recommended track pressures for my tyres. Have your tyre balance checked if all else has been tried.
Not on mine. I've checked, rechecked, and double checked the recheck and the marks are Ok to within less than a mm.
I also want my tyres to last a bit longer, so I'm running 32Fr/34Rr as per Michelin specs for the 09.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Has anyone tried the tapered roller bearings on the trple clamp? Does anyone know where could be found?
 

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What others said in checking the chain and wheel alignment but I changed out my stock tires for my go to Michelin Pilot Powers and I had no more shake at high speeds or any speed. I think I had the shake after the rear factory tire was squared off or flat spot wore into the middle of the rear however. I run 34F 36R.
 

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Has anyone tried the tapered roller bearings on the trple clamp? Does anyone know where could be found?
It'll be easier to fit a damper I think. But that'll only fix the symptoms.
 

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33/30 on the street? Damn, I bet you wouldn't get too much mileage out of that!
I don't worry about mileage - I worry about grip when riding solo (I do use 42r 36f when 2 up BTW). FWIW I get about 2500-3000 miles out of a rear and that includes 3 track days a year and about 6000 miles or so for the front which I think is OK for my riding style.

This does not solve Bill's issue- the only other thing I can think is to check the front fork alignment. Does the bike track perfectly straight with no hands on the handlebars and no power on or do you find you have to shift your weight to keep it straight?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It tracks straight.My weight is 103 kgs<227pounds>.I use Givi screen,but with original short screen reacts the same.
 

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It tracks straight.My weight is 103 kgs<227pounds>.I use Givi screen,but with original short screen reacts the same.
I've no idea then- possible wheel balance issue or maybe a possible suspension imbalance i.e. too much preload on rear compared to front? I'm grasping at straws- I really don't know what else you should try- you seem to have tried everything.
 
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