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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does it bother anyone else that this bike does not have a castellated rear wheel nut with locking wire?



I bet the existing axle isn't long enough to add one either I wonder why they never put one on?


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Not me.
I think the last bike I owned that used a cotter pin was my 1984 FJ1100.
Think of it this way-------Friction is Fun!
BTW, in your photo, is the washer missing?
 
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Not too worried after using the spec'd torque on it.
 

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The Yami's have a locking(ish) nut. I've never had an issue with it backing off on both Yami's.

It would be a nice piece of mind to have though.

I do sometimes put a paint mark on my axle and caliper bolts. Its a quick reference check to see if anything is backing off.
 
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Paradox: The guys on the V-Strom list sought out a non-castle nut for their axles. One off a DR650 worked.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just parked my bike next to a '13 Z800 and happened to notice the nut which made me look at mine that was all.


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Of all the bikes in my garage right now, castle nut?
2014 FZ-09, no
2012 CBR1000RR, no
2012 FZ1, no
2007 GSX-R750, no, but has a hole for a pin to keep the nut from coming completely off
2007 ZX-6R, YES
2007 CRF230, I can't remember, but I think not
2006 YZ250F, no
 

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Paradox: The guys on the V-Strom list sought out a non-castle nut for their axles. One off a DR650 worked.
Yes the newer DR650's use the new style Fuji U-Nut (lock nut), and the older ones used the castellated & cotter pin.

Here is a good example of how these new style Fuji U-Nut / lock nuts work.

Fuji Seimitsu Co.,Ltd.?PRODUCTS?U-NUT

Here is a trick I used on my old dirt bikes, that just had a nylon lock nut. Once you have the nut tightened to the right torque, just for a little more peace of mind, I'd add a small bead of clear silicone on the exposed threads and face of the lock nut. We called it poor man's Loctite, it stopped the axle nut from going anywhere and didn't mess up the threads when you did need to remove or adjust your chain. It was also great for helping to keep the threads nice and clean. It worked great for any nuts or bolts you didn't want to loose on the old dirt bikes. I have used this trick for years and have never lost any nuts or bolts.

Out of habit, I always use a little on the axle nuts of any motorcycle. You don't need a lot to make it work, and using clear silicone is not noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes the newer DR650's use the new style Fuji U-Nut (lock nut), and the older ones used the castellated & cotter pin.

Here is a good example of how these new style Fuji U-Nut / lock nuts work.

Fuji Seimitsu Co.,Ltd.?PRODUCTS?U-NUT

Here is a trick I used on my old dirt bikes, that just had a nylon lock nut. Once you have the nut tightened to the right torque, just for a little more peace of mind, I'd add a small bead of clear silicone on the exposed threads and face of the lock nut. We called it poor man's Loctite, it stopped the axle nut from going anywhere and didn't mess up the threads when you did need to remove or adjust your chain. It was also great for helping to keep the threads nice and clean. It worked great for any nuts or bolts you didn't want to loose on the old dirt bikes. I have used this trick for years and have never lost any nuts or bolts.

Out of habit, I always use a little on the axle nuts of any motorcycle. You don't need a lot to make it work, and using clear silicone is not noticeable.
Cool thanks for sharing!


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Not an issue in my mind. Torque it properly and forget about it.

Ride more

worry less
 

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Doesn't worry me. I do maintenance on my own bikes so I know I torqued it down properly. Haven't done it on the FZ yet tho...

The only bike I've owned from the list below that has a castle nut is the XT. Maybe my wife's ninja has one too?
 
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Haven't had a problem but yes it bothers me, my 14th motorcycle, my first to not have it
 

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The silicone trick started after doing a full suspension cleaning and re-greasing on my first dirt bike. I followed the manual, re-installing the swingarm bolt, then tightened it to spec and used blue Loctite as instructed. I made sure the threads were clean so the Loctite would set properly.

So a week later we went out riding, in the middle of fricken' no where, the nut disappeared. Needless to say, my day of riding was over, and grrrrrr's, the blue Loctite couldn't handle the vibration of the old 2-stroke beast and pounding down the trail. When I replaced the nut and used the silicone trick to hold it there, it never came loose again. That's when we discovered that silicone worked way better than Loctite on nuts and bolts that saw a lot of vibration. It might not have been needed all the time, but it was a nice to know everything would stay put and not go missing, lol.

Also on the dirt bikes it was nice that the silicone helped keep all the dirt and grime out of the threads. It seemed to help extend the life of fasteners that you had to take out for regular maintenance.
 
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