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hey , sorry for bumping up the thread
but i couldn't find the answer about the difference between the 2 plugs
CPR9EAIX VS CR9EIX

and why we i can't find any information about this plug CPR9EAIX on the manufacturer website ?

thanks
danny
 

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No, for prior to 21, the non- iridium standard could be had for about $12 a 4 pack!
I've gone 12k miles on a set and swaped them by only tilting down the radiator, after only removing the side plastic rad shrouds. Easy peasy!

I plumbed long vacuum hoses to the TB ports so I can check their sync without touching anything!
 

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No, for prior to 21, the non- iridium standard could be had for about $12 a 4 pack!
I've gone 12k miles on a set and swaped them by only tilting down the radiator, after only removing the side plastic rad shrouds. Easy peasy!

I plumbed long vacuum hoses to the TB ports so I can check their sync without touching anything!
What a great time saver, could include photos of connection to TB ports and how you connect to manometer?
 

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What a great time saver, could include photos of connection to TB ports and how you connect to manometer?
Get 7 feet of universal (Honda, Yamaha, etc suppliers sell it by the foot) 3.5 mm ID vacuum hose. Cut to appropriate staggard lengths to route from each TB vacuum port forward and up slightly and out the left (or right I guess) frame opening so they extend out about 8 inches. Obtain 1/8" hose splice connectors (double-ended barbed connector) and matching rubber caps (though the OEM TB vacuum port caps could work). The OEM hose "clamps" can be reinstalled at the ports. Attach mamometer as normal. Coil and zip tie hoses inside frame below and to left of steering head so they are hidden but accessible.
 

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Get 7 feet of universal (Honda, Yamaha, etc suppliers sell it by the foot) 3.5 mm ID vacuum hose. Cut to appropriate staggard lengths to route from each TB vacuum port forward and up slightly and out the left (or right I guess) frame opening so they extend out about 8 inches. Obtain 1/8" hose splice connectors (double-ended barbed connector) and matching rubber caps (though the OEM TB vacuum port caps could work). The OEM hose "clamps" can be reinstalled at the ports. Attach mamometer as normal. Coil and zip tie hoses inside frame below and to left of steering head so they are hidden but accessible.
That's all good but I find when it's time to check the Sync it needs adjustments and to do that you will need to take everything apart any way to get to the adjustment screws ...
 

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No, for prior to 21, the non- iridium standard could be had for about $12 a 4 pack!
I've gone 12k miles on a set and swaped them by only tilting down the radiator, after only removing the side plastic rad shrouds. Easy peasy!

I plumbed long vacuum hoses to the TB ports so I can check their sync without touching anything!
Well yeah, I do have a set of the non-iridiums for emergencies but I'd like to try the iridium ones!
 

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For what it's worth

The stock CPR9EA-9, the 'P' suffix stands for projected, meaning the tip of the plug protrudes further into the combustion chamber than a standard profile plug. That matters on engines that foul/flood easily. Not really necessary on a modern fuel injected bike. It may also affect compression very slightly (less cylinder volume).

I replaced my standard plugs with CR9EIA-9 laser iridium. I'm due for an air filter and throttle balance so I will check and re-gap the plugs as well and let you all know how it goes.
 

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For what it's worth

The stock CPR9EA-9, the 'P' suffix stands for projected, meaning the tip of the plug protrudes further into the combustion chamber than a standard profile plug. That matters on engines that foul/flood easily. Not really necessary on a modern fuel injected bike. It may also affect compression very slightly (less cylinder volume).

I replaced my standard plugs with CR9EIA-9 laser iridium. I'm due for an air filter and throttle balance so I will check and re-gap the plugs as well and let you all know how it goes.
That'll increase compression slightly. The mixture is being squeezed into a smaller space. But no one will notice.
The risk on some engines is that the piston or valves will hit the electrode.
 
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