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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to be removing the exhaust to get it powder coated, just wondering what I should torque the header nuts and rear mounting bolts to when I go to reinstall it.
 

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Just saying... Don't powder coat it. It's too hot, and it'll end up going chalky and literally melting off. It "melts" when they bake it on at 400*, so it can't even get that hot. If you just meant ceramic coating, awesome and ignore what I just said :)

I just tightened mine by feel... So I can't really help you there, sorry. Might PM DNFDoug or Marthy if no one else chimes in
 

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14 ft/lb on top of my mind. Someone ask me a while ago for the FZ6R and those are the same size. I usually just tight them up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just saying... Don't powder coat it. It's too hot, and it'll end up going chalky and literally melting off. It "melts" when they bake it on at 400*, so it can't even get that hot. If you just meant ceramic coating, awesome and ignore what I just said :)

I just tightened mine by feel... So I can't really help you there, sorry. Might PM DNFDoug or Marthy if no one else chimes in
Yes, I mis-typed... I'm getting a ceramic coating...
 

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It's 14 ft-lbs per the manual. But I'd check them after a couple rides & re-torque, a few of mine needed to get tightened up just a little bit after about 200 miles
 

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Without checking with a torque wrench, how could you know if you're even close to the correct value? I sure wouldn't risk it. We've had posts on here of owners shearing off the exhaust studs and the results can be very expensive.

If access is a problem, you can get a crowfoot open end and extension to use with the torque wrench. There are tables available to compensate for the measured torque versus the difference in leverage.
 

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I think it ended up good, I think that I had over-tightened them previously and bought new crush washers for the occasion and I will check the tightness in 2-3 days or another 120 miles, WITH a torque wrench. Lol
 
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