Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I sheared a bolt flush with the case on the charging and water pump side. I have tried my traditional extractor, but the hard steel of the bolt included with the t-rex kit just ate the extractor threads. I have ordered left handed bits and a new harder set of extractors. If these don't work what are my options?


I am pretty technically competent, but this is my first time encountering a problem I can't solve.

Any advice or experience is welcome.

Thanks from a panicked compatriot. :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ouch! Is the bolt diameter 6mm? The small size seems like it will make it trickier. Did it happen tightening the bolt? Were you using a torque wrench?
It was a 6mm. I was using a torque wrench but it was a shitty clicker. I just ordered an ACDelco digital one. too little too late.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is it flush with the cover? Maybe remove the cover and weld the head back on the bolt then remove bolt and replace it.

Hope this helps.

Daniel.
Unfortunately its flush with the case not the cover. I already have the cover off and have drained the coolant and oil. Just tried my extractor kit but it failed miserably. I am at a loss right now, but I'm gonna let it sit till after work tomorrow. Gather some thought and ideas to attack it prepared this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sux, even if the torque wrench was a bit faulty I'd expect there would be enough safety margin. I wonder if the t-rex bolt was faulty, maybe too hard, brittle. Were you using torque specs from t-rex or Yamaha?
I am pretty sure I misread the wrench when I set it. I was using t-rex's spec but if I did what I think then it is totally on me. Just using shitty equipment and rushing mostly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
353 Posts
I've never done it but you can get a nut and hold it over the sheared bolt and then plug weld the nut to the end of the bolt. People who know more than me will chime in hopefully but this could work. Allow it to cool then remove.
bolt or stud extraction....

Daniel
Yep, this works like a charm. You get a new "head" on the nut to remove it, and as a bonus the welding actually causes the threads to shrink slightly, so it should loosen up a little if it's stuck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
if the above doesn't work, you're going to have to drill it out.
You'll need a very hard bit, for a 6mm bolt, the Minor Dia. of the internal threads is 5.153/4.917, so a 4.5 or 4.0mm drill should work
in inches 4.5mm is 0.1772", this is close to 11/64" (0.1719") or is exactly wire Gauge 16 (0.1770")

This should work: McMaster-Carr
Probably gonna want to chase the threads with a tap when you're done
McMaster-Carr

This assumes a M6x1 bolt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if the above doesn't work, you're going to have to drill it out.
You'll need a very hard bit, for a 6mm bolt, the Minor Dia. of the internal threads is 5.153/4.917, so a 4.5 or 4.0mm drill should work
in inches 4.5mm is 0.1772", this is close to 11/64" (0.1719") or is exactly wire Gauge 16 (0.1770")

This should work: McMaster-Carr
Probably gonna want to chase the threads with a tap when you're done
McMaster-Carr

This assumes a M6x1 bolt
Awesome good to know. Thanks for the advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
A lot has to do with whether bolt is in the case, tight or somewhat loose.

If not too tight, Take a very small, thin dremel abraisive wheel, 1 mm or thinner

and carve a 1 mm deep slot in the bolt.

Make cut parallel to the gasket area incase you slip.

Use 1/8 inch screw driver to remove if it will turn.

The weld thing not recommended unless you have a TIG welder and a steady hand.

Use smallest electrode with fine point.

Would not use gas.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,297 Posts
I've never done it but you can get a nut and hold it over the sheared bolt and then plug weld the nut to the end of the bolt. People who know more than me will chime in hopefully but this could work. Allow it to cool then remove.
bolt or stud extraction....

Daniel
Yep, this works like a charm. You get a new "head" on the nut to remove it, and as a bonus the welding actually causes the threads to shrink slightly, so it should loosen up a little if it's stuck.
A lot has to do with whether bolt is in the case, tight or somewhat loose.

If not too tight, Take a very small, thin dremel abraisive wheel, 1 mm or thinner

and carve a 1 mm deep slot in the bolt.

Make cut parallel to the gasket area incase you slip.

Use 1/8 inch screw driver to remove if it will turn.

The weld thing not recommended unless you have a TIG welder and a steady hand.

Use smallest electrode with fine point.

Would not use gas.
Excellent advice here. The TIG approach has gotten me out of a few binds. The problem, is most people don't have TIG...

The issue with those bolt extractor kits is they are very finnicky. Most bolts don't leave a flat surface, so getting a drill started is usually tough. Buy a good center punch and proceed carefully. Certainly try to prevent damaging the threads. However, if you do manage to damage them, don't fret. A threaded insert will restore the threads to new...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Excellent advice here. The TIG approach has gotten me out of a few binds. The problem, is most people don't have TIG...

The issue with those bolt extractor kits is they are very finnicky. Most bolts don't leave a flat surface, so getting a drill started is usually tough. Buy a good center punch and proceed carefully. Certainly try to prevent damaging the threads. However, if you do manage to damage them, don't fret. A threaded insert will restore the threads to new...

Thanks for the advice everyone. Unfortunately in a panic last night I botched the first attempt with a bolt extraction kit. I have left hand drive bits, a cobalt extractor set, and a proper digital torque gauge on the way. I will give some of these options a go if this fails. I will keep everyone posted. Nick could you elaborate on the threaded insert?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
Dude you are a wealth of information. All this is really making me less apprehensive about my situation. Seriously. You all have made my day so much better.
Thanks, but actually its McMaster-Carr that has the wealth of info...happy to help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Learning a lot from this thread! Good luck with your extraction! Let us know how it turns out.
I got it out! Managed to keep the stock threads intact too! I used a set of left hand drive bits and cobalt coated extractors. I'll post in more detail tomorrow.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top