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Guys,
It's time for my first oil change. I'm doing the first at 100 miles. I have heard 25 from major break in guys... buy the miles just got away from me the first week i've had the bike.

Any recommendations for oil...
Does anyone out there use YAMALUBE??
Is it too soon to go synthetic? or should I go one more round of regular and then switch to full synthetic?

likewise, Any recommendation for filter??

Also, can the bike be drained from the side stand?

And this is the first I have heard of a magnetic drain plug... sounds cool but weird. I will google it in the meantime, but please, any advice in this matter is welcomed and appreciated.
THanks,
-Ben
 

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From what I've read is best to go to synthetic after the first 600 miles or so, cuz the fossil for oil actually coats the engine, builds a "line of defense" that synthetics can't. But, I'm probably talking out of my ass, so wait for a more experienced & knowledgeable response. :p
 

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I used Yamalube and a Yamaha filter for my first oil change (133 miles). I'll use Yamalube for my normal 600 mile oil change - but I'm switching to a HiFloFiltro HF-204 filter. After that I'll switch to synthetic. Yamalube is Citgo, and the Yamaha filters are Denso. For an extra $2 HiFloFiltro welds a 17mm nut on the end and sells them as K&N KN204. If you want a magnetic drain plug, then the drain plug is a M14x1.5.x16 - like on the most Yamaha roadbikes (search for a plug for an FZ6R or an FJR1300 and you'll find them).
 

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From what I've read is best to go to synthetic after the first 600 miles or so, cuz the fossil for oil actually coats the engine, builds a "line of defense" that synthetics can't. But, I'm probably talking out of my ass, so wait for a more experienced & knowledgeable response. :p
Um, ah, yeah...I think you may have gotten hold of some bad info there. :rolleyes:
 

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I'm at around 162miles, gonna swap 1 for 1 oil and filter this weekend. Motoman suggests changing the oil after the first 20miles. Has anyone ever had negative effects from not changing it soon enough?
 

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I did my first oil change at 117 mi when I got it home from the dealership. I did not change the filter. At 607 I changed both the oil and filter. The first change was 5 times dirtier than the second. Both changes were with Yamalube. The filter change was factory. At 2,000 I will go to full synthetic.
 

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Ditto yamalube and yammi oil filter at 200 miles.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

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Far far more important than type of oil is frequency of replenishment of said oil and filter.
I get Lucas Semi Synthetic High Per motorcycle oil, 10-40 $7.53 per quart from Orielliys or Auto zone, but only in person visits to a store.

I have had bikes over 200,000 miles with young torque, back when we all just used car oil. I change my dirtbikes after each weekend trip in the mountains and my street bikes at 25, 400, 1000 and then every 2000 miles for life of every street bike I have owned since 82, and I have had some great bikes last a long freaking time. It's just an oil/filter change, be glad you aren't checking valves all the time like on CRF 450's.

That same exact $7.53 oil is the same that Troy Lee Designs runs in their sponsored race bikes, a bunch other teams too. In fact you can get it even cheaper by purchasing a case. For me it's the best deal I can find, in person at the stores and it's $8.93- 13.00 Online!!
 

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I did my first oil change at just under 200 kms. Oil was dirty. Replaced with dino oil (Yamalube) and replaced filter with same OEM filter.

I've always used the Yamaha denso filters on my bike. From looking it up, they have a back-flow valve design that keeps all the oil from draining into the crank case. Suppose to help keep some oil further up in the motor on starts. Apparently not all aftermarket oil filters have the back-flow preventers.

There's no decisive info on the topic that I can find, just mostly internet opinions. I take it with a grain of salt.

I'll do Yamalube for the next oil change again, the switch over to Motul Synthetic for all the oil changes moving forward.
 

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did anyone install a crush washer on the drain nut? I noticed mine didnt have one while my previous bike did. Just curious... I put the nut back on with no crush washer but was wondering if i should have.
 

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the crush washer should be there. it probably is, but you didn't notice it because it got flattened so much that it looks like it's part of the drain bolt.
 

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the crush washer should be there. it probably is, but you didn't notice it because it got flattened so much that it looks like it's part of the drain bolt.
balls, i should probably replace it next time then...

the damn bolt was torqued on there so tight when i did the first oil change. Yamaha must have this guy do their drain bolt tightening.

Barechested Muscle Male Chest Arm
 

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I didn't see one on mine either, which I thought was odd, but I changed it out with a magnetic plug that had one. I had to put a long pipe on my ratchet to get the damn thing loose.
 

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How about the torque down on the damn oil filter? Wouldn't budge no matter which of my filter wrenches I tried-finally had to resort to the old screw driver pounded thru the top of the filter trick.
 

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I got lucky on mine but it was a bitch. I hand tighten mine and never had a problem. I don't get it.

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I changed at 600miles with a K-N 204 filter and motul 5100 semi sen 10w-40 oil, next change was at 2000 miles and 5000 will be the next. I like the K-N filters because they have a 17mm nut welded on the end so they are easy to remove and torgue. Been using this combo for years on street and dirt with no issues at all. Remember the best oil for your bike is the oil you just changed same with the filter but always use a MA rated oil and you will be fine. RR:cool:
 

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I will use dino (Yamalube) for the 1st 1500-2000 miles, then switch to synthetic or semi-synthetic. The dealer recommended at least 1500 before switching to synthetic. I would have done the 20 miles 1st OC, but I just received my oil/filters, so is happening @ ~400 miles. If you want to learn more about engine oil & filtration, bobistheoilguy.com is the best resource I've found-probably more info there than you'd ever want, including a large database of UOAs (used oil analysis) for all popular engines. According to test results I found there, OEM oil and air filters, in general, tend to filter better than aftermarket. BTW, oil filter is 65mm:
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:65mm oil filter wrench
 
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