Hai
Over the winther i made some rear shock adjustments, i have ride weight on 80 kg i dident measure the lengt of spring before and after i forgot, i just tog the spring of and adjusted the collar all the way up more or les 6,2mm , how i see it my measurements is all right for road use,

 

Here is measurements

 

It seems that the measurements are not showing in your comment? Would love to have a look though as I want to try doing the adjustment before ordering a lighter spring for the shocks

 

My NIX30 cartridges are FKS 504 (the black cap ones) for MT09 Gen 1&2; they replaced FGK 237 (silver cap that had completely different springs lenght); I was lucky indeed to find them sound & cheap.

ARP didn't use the green dust seals, but not only they said that they pick low friction oil/dust seals and bushings, but they actually made me feel one leg pushed by hand before and after their job and it was night and day difference.
I believe they used Silkolene 100% synthetic oil.

Going back on this thread, about the K100 shock spring: it's quite easy to add less preload to the K100 spring in comparison with the stock K90 and make the bike seem plusher sitting still or at slow speed on small road imperfections, because of the static that wasn't there before, but you'll have to verify if the spring is the right for your weight, riding/pace and riding style, of course.

It's quite rare to find bikes that come with premium suspensions, but it looks like that they're getting better on the settings side.
Then, if someone want better materials, or more regulations (or maybe a brand to be proud of...) there are plenty of choices out there.

 

Hi, Quick one back on the subject of fork springs. Without going and reading everything again, I remember you experimented with different weight fork springs. I was looking at the Ohlins document: https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/O...ownload/db/Ohlins_DTC_mounting-instruction-oehlins-motorcycle-fks--00002159.pdf
Which shows the impact of using different air gaps. Its not shown in this document but from the similar document for FKS-519 cartridges (https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/O...ownload/db/Ohlins_DTC_mounting-instruction-oehlins-motorcycle-fks--00003194.pdf), there is a range of rider weight and recommended spring rates (page 8). I have the impression (although they don't say it), that if you are are the low end of rider weight range for a given spring (8.5Nmm spring, rider weight range is from 55kg to 75kg, a 9Nmm spring, rider weight range is from 75kg to 95kg), the air-gap can be used to align the cartridge more closely to the rider weight. I suspect (guess) having a large air-gap to compensate a harder spring, would give less "feel/feedback" than using a softer spring with small air-gap.

 

I thought it too, but the pro guy at ARP suggested not to mess up with air gap and change springs instead.

 

I have had a bit of a journey getting my bike set up. It’s a 2022 SP. so far I have had a revalve for both forks and shock.
I am 82kg without gear. 0.95 springs all around with 4mm pre installed pre load on the shock. It’s a 160mm spring and it sits at 156mm.
At speed the bike handled amazing. Nothing can upset the chassis.
However the front preload was max sag at 33mm and rear was similar. I feel the bike gave me too much feedback at lower speeds due to the heavier spring at the front due to the fact that we sit very upright on the bike and not much weight is put through the bars when just cruising.
Our roads in Australia are very bumpy and riding fast all day over these created a fatigue which crept in after 600-700km but I still enjoyed the bike in its element. After about 20,000km bike has 31,000km, with this set up I have just sent my suspension to be serviced and asked for the workshop to install 8.5kg spring up front and leave the rear as is. Will report back but hopefully the new set up will even out the chassis and the bike will handle better with regard to comfort and fast speed stability. For context I spent a few years riding an R6, zx10 and an R1. Regularly attend track days but touring is my thing.

 

I have had a bit of a journey getting my bike set up. It’s a 2022 SP. so far I have had a revalve for both forks and shock.
I am 82kg without gear. 0.95 springs all around with 4mm pre installed pre load on the shock. It’s a 160mm spring and it sits at 156mm.
At speed the bike handled amazing. Nothing can upset the chassis.
However the front preload was max sag at 33mm and rear was similar. I feel the bike gave me too much feedback at lower speeds due to the heavier spring at the front due to the fact that we sit very upright on the bike and not much weight is put through the bars when just cruising.
Our roads in Australia are very bumpy and riding fast all day over these created a fatigue which crept in after 600-700km but I still enjoyed the bike in its element. After about 20,000km bike has 31,000km, with this set up I have just sent my suspension to be serviced and asked for the workshop to install 8.5kg spring up front and leave the rear as is. Will report back but hopefully the new set up will even out the chassis and the bike will handle better with regard to comfort and fast speed stability. For context I spent a few years riding an R6, zx10 and an R1. Regularly attend track days but touring is my thing.

Your shock spring has 170mm free length and has 16mm standard preload at 156mm.

 

Just to update this thread:
I have a MY2021 MT09 SP. I removed the 90Nm stock spring (01092-29/90) which has a measured free length of 169mm and installed length of 159mm, giving stock installed preload of 10mm. I managed to rotate the preload adjuster locking collars by 1 turn out to give an installed length of 160mm / 9mm preload but that is the most that is achievable with the stock parts. Later in on this subject SLM13 writes that he has had a different Ohlins spring clip installed (Part number 00676-01 ) which allows the installed preload to decrease by 7.5mm. Great solution SLM13 which I will copy as it can be applied to different 01092 springs and always provide the right range of installed preload.

 

Deleted out-of-date message.

 

I think you could send me a private message, so I can give you their contacts. They used Messenger a lot in the past, but now they prefer whatsapp to exchange text. If you're planning to go there, be aware that Andrea is often abroad for international races.

 

After reading this complete thread, I have come to conclusion that by spring is just too light for my weight. It is a 01092-29/90 spring. Does anyone have a 01092-31/95 that they want to sell. I would have posted this in the WTB section, but it requires 50 post. I do not think I will ever reach 50 post. P M me.Thank you

 

Is it possible to back off the castellated pre-load collar that sits above the preload hydraulic assy to get maybe a mm of extra spring travel, whilst still in situ in the bike (MT09)

 

Ignore above. It seems this thread answers my question, which is a hard NO. It has to be removed from the bike.

(1) 2021 MT09SP rear shock collar set wrong. | Yamaha FZ-09 Forum

 

Anyone else wishing to get some comfort with the rear shock, i took mine to a mechanic and asked him to remove all of the pre-installed preload, i just brought him the shock.

Once installed back on the bike i got roughly 15-20mm of static sag.
I then turned the preload adjuster 8 turns from fully open to get 10mm of static sag and 30ish rider sag, 82kg rider.
22 SP.
Hope this helps

 

Anyone else wishing to get some comfort with the rear shock, i took mine to a mechanic and asked him to remove all of the pre-installed preload, i just brought him the shock.

Funny thing is, I bought a YA570 (no remote adjusters or adjustable compression), and it came out of the box with 16mm of installed preload, but they intentionally mounted the spring as close to the bottom of the shock as possible, so that there was no thread left to reduce preload with the lower adjuster.
Both ends are threaded so it wasn't a big deal to move the spring up the shock, but it's almost like Ohlins is afraid riders will all start dying horrible deaths with less than their recommended installed preload.

 

Because of the remote adjuster on my 2024 mt09 sp I didn’t think there was any manual adjustment😳
Can’t believe I missed it. I knew the sag was way out but thought it was just one of those things like 40psi in the rear tyre. I can’t be the only one that missed it. I read most of this thread going back four years. Only other bike I had with a remote adjuster was a f6b Feeling pretty stupid right now. That bit of manual adjustment that was always there should make make up the difference I need. 🤯🫤

 

Take it or leave it, Yamaha form first gen on made the bike like that: the rear suspension geometry make everybody struggle about static. Even if your weight appear to be in the sweet spot of the stock spring, too much installed preload on the shock makes the possible static sag disappear. If some 3-4 Gen shock gives the possibility to move the upper castle nuts, it's only a matter of take away some of the installed preload. On my 1 Gen with SP Ohlins shock I end up changing the shock spring clip to lower the installed preload. Anyway, even in this case there's not too much to play with because - in the end - I found out that (at least on 1 Gen) the front need to be pushed hard by the shock otherwise it looses grip and feel pretty fast. Then I watch an interview to an Ohlins guy - speaking in general, not about 09 - saying that bikes doesn't necessarily need static to be properly set, so maybe WE are getting it wrong...

 

I’m going to choose this opinion out of laziness for now

Quote from above ⬆ Then I watch an interview to an Ohlins guy - speaking in general, not about 09 - saying that bikes doesn't necessarily need static to be properly set, so maybe WE are getting it wrong.

 

I watched that Dave moss video when I was researching this bike and saw it early in this thread. I’ve been following him for a very long time and if he missed it I don’t feel so bad. Or did previous generations of sp not have those few manual adjustment threads? I noticed on YouTube there’s a guy dirty garage mechanic or something like that really doesn’t like him at all but I’d stand up for him

 

I was able to gain less of 2 mm on the top of 1 Gen SP Ohlins shock ... better than nothing but at that time I had a K90 installed and some extra preload was needed to push the front (and I'm 85kg). Probably with the stock K95 spring I could live with it and forget the static thing. With a lower spring clip I had something like 6-7mm of static with K95 spring back on the shock. Very soon I found out that I had to add some more preload for better grip in the front, so in the end - with stock geometry in the rear - Yamaha and Ohlins are probably right: now the static is barely there (3-4mm, maybe). Next step could be slightly longer dogbones: +2 / +4 mm could be enough to do the trick for me, but there are side effects to menage also

 

Gen 3 is a little better as triple tee is 30mm lower which means there is more weight over the front already compared to previous Gen, i did note that my front end is lighter when accelerating out of corners with potential of the front wheel losing contact if too aggresive after removed the pre installed pre load.

However, there is 10mm of adjustability in the remote preload adjuster from fully in to fully out, what this allows is greater adjustabilty to compress the rear spring for aggresive riding by raising the rear with extra pre-load(ie turn the black knob clockwise) once you have finished having fun you can always pull
over and back off all the preload and soften compression and enjoy comfort at slow speeds.
Whilst previously with Yamahas installed preload from factory i couldnt access the comfort setting due too much pre installed preload which i could not adjust out without taking the shock out and removing the spring.

Hope that makes sense to anyone who wishes to make the rear more adjustable for slower relaxed pace and vice versa.

 

That was my next question. Getting at those adjustment rings. Hammer and punch or remove the shock

 

if you have the SP model then remove shock,
its real quick, two bolt for shock 43nm, 4 fasteners for remote reservoir, pull it out and ask morcycle shop to back out, my guy took 15mins and i paid him $40AUD.
If you have car jack stands you can slide them under the footpeg brackets to take weight off the chassis to remove shock any hardware shop has these cheap. Good luck

 

Is there alot of spring tension to fight to move those rings your self or just didn’t want to damage them with a screwdriver and hammer? Guess there’s no room for a tool with it still on the bike. Just reread your post. So looking like a spring compressor just to adjust it and removing the shock. I might just leave it there it’s riding good enough for me anyway and I don’t push this bike at all

 

Oh, by the way... all the bla-bla and my changes looking for static and ending up with a few grip in front does ring a bell? Maybe Ohlins zero preload by the knob on the shock was correct, after all. "Don't cross that treashold" ? I think that it was probably the way to set it up with MT09 rear stock geometry: zero static was probably the lesser of two evils

 

Yeah i just wish Ohlins thought about rider comfort in bumpy real world scenarios,
i know riding on the limit is dangerous so i dont do it on the street as much as i used to and can probably do with a less exact set up for track,
but riding over bumps and not being thrown off my line is a nice feeling now as the suspenion is moulding to the road.... food for thought.

 

I have used a 180 60 rear in past but that was a long time ago when some 1000cc riders ditched their 190 50 used 180 55 to get better grip more lean angle Then 190 55 came along and that was an easy choice you can make today still. Hopefully there is good 180 60s out there and won’t mess with the electronics on the new mt. I doubt that a 180 60 would come in a sport Touring though. Raising the rear was benefit for faster riding last time I checked but who am I to question the manufacturers and maybe for that kind of riding I should be looking at a different bike. Toung in cheek