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Spent some time this weekend to check what settings my suspensions had and to adjust the sag.
Sag is at 36mm front and 30mm back.I'm 74 kg.
There is no static sag at all at the rear.
Removed a click of rebound from the rear and added a click of slow comp at the front to reduce the dive a bit.Will ride it sometime these days to see if anything noticeable changed.
With my old settings even when meeting a bump mid corner while being almost knee down,didn't seem to really bother the bike.It went over it smoothly without losing traction at any wheel.
Try 40 - 45mm front, 35- 38 rear. Your setting are still too stiff for road use.
 

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Well, if your internal organs are happy, go for it.
 
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Yamaha MT 09 SP 2021
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An update with my settings


I'm 175 cm and 75kgs.

I haven't measured preload on the front.
Rider SAG 36mm
Rebound 13 clicks
Slo Comp 13 clicks
Hi Comp 2 turns

For the rear
Rider SAG 30mm
Preload about 1/10 of a turn from the softer setting
Rebound 14 clicks
Comp 11 clicks
 

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2021 MT09 SP
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I’m registered for his site but the full versions aren’t shareable without recording it. Long story short. He found the suspension inadequate and needed to use the majority of the damping to get the bike close to proper after only ~1000 miles on the clock. Discussed a shock spring swap as the stock spring is too soft and heavier or more fork oil for the fronts.
Hi do you mind sharing the settings that Dave suggest for the stock suspension? From the preview he has spring preload at min and rebound 3 clicks out.
What about rear compression?
Front preload, slow compression and rebound?

Just wanted to use his settings as a baseline, until I have time to due some sag measurements and fine tuning on the road.
 

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If you're not the same weight, forget using other peoples settings. Do it the right way, it doesn't take long to set sag. Having someone help makes it easy and quick.
 

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Do the bounce test. Look at Dave Moss' vids and pay close attention to the speed the bike rebounds. Compression is harder to see, it more about feel. It all needs fine tuning on the road though.
 

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Has anyone replaced the Ohlins spring for a lighter one? If so can you tell me the part number so I can source it? I weigh 60kg without gear and the standard spring is too hard. Had to do a spring change on my old Panigale from the standard 95nm to a 75nm.
 

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Has anyone replaced the Ohlins spring for a lighter one? If so can you tell me the part number so I can source it? I weigh 60kg without gear and the standard spring is too hard. Had to do a spring change on my old Panigale from the standard 95nm to a 75nm.
For MT09, Ohlins shocks use 01092 springs. So if you want a 75N/mm spring, it would be 01092-21.
 

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Who was the member here who said that he found suspension tuning to be a black art? Oh wait - that would be me!
 

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I just adjusted mine and have the fronts cranked all the way hard while the rear all the way soft. I’m light at 145. With gear 150 155 lbs
Need stiffer front and softer rears
I'm about the same weight as you, when I had my first gen FZ I had .85 kg/mm fork springs installed and it was just about right for not too crazy road riding. If you prefer plusher, maybe go .80, or mix/match .80 and .85 springs to get .825 (was gonna try this before bike got totalled).

The SP shock is a lil akward because the hydraulic preload assembly puts too much installed preload on the spring so that's why people are seeing very little static sag with stock spring and adjuster at the lowest setting. If you go lower on the spring rate, it works out better for you.
 

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2021 MT09 SP
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So are you saying the shock has too much installed preload? Then one could just remove the shock and install less preload without necessarily needing a spring rate change. I am riding with about two turns in on the preload because if i go beyond that i just get bounced off the saddle when going over bumps. Rebound is set to 14 click from fully closed.
 

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So are you saying the shock has too much installed preload?
Yeah, and this isn't that unusual with Ohlins shocks with hydraulic preload adjustment, cuz the preload assembly takes up a good amount of space and everything including the spring needs to fit within a certain length.


Then one could just remove the shock and install less preload without necessarily needing a spring rate change.
Maybe. Not having the shock in my hand I can't say for certain, but sometimes the preload assembly can be moved up a few mm.
But you'd need a shock spring compressor to remove the spring and assembly first.

This video gives you an idea of what disassembly is like (he's replacing it with a regular collar):

If the preload assembly can't be moved up higher, the spring can be replaced with a shorter one. Ohlins also has different spring perch styles, I think someone else mentioned that they had a shorter spring perch installed and that did the trick. Maybe that was on another thread.


I am riding with about two turns in on the preload because if i go beyond that i just get bounced off the saddle when going over bumps. Rebound is set to 14 click from fully closed.
Why not turn the preload out to minimum? Unless that puts you too far into the travel when you ride the bike in which case you need a stiffer spring.
And try playing with the clickers one at a time to see if you can reduce the harshness.
 

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My Ohlins shock on my Bandit had intial preload ajustment, but the shock did have to come off to do it.
You do have to have some initial preload though, it's unsafe to run none.
 
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