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My statement was if enough come to the dealer and all these reports go to Yamaha they "Yamaha" will tend to look into the problem...
Yip understand what you saying an agree, I am a qualified bike tech worked for Yamaha an Suzuki an been in the industry for a few decades so know how it all works. It took nearly year back in 2014 for Yamaha to bring a recal flash to try an sort the first 09 ecu poor tuning/throttle tables.
 

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So we have evap canister and non-evap canister models with the issue?
Has the kick stand switch been eliminated as the culprit?

There are reports of a similar issue with the Tracer/FJ going back a few years, but while decelerating and down-shifting into 2 or 1st gear. Some have mentioned the key not bing inserted all the way or turned all the way to the on position.

I don't ever recall having this issue with my FJ09, but I'll see if I get this on my MT09 which is due any day now. (y)
 

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So we have evap canister and non-evap canister models with the issue?
So far only canister bikes, unless I missed something (read posts after mine twice):). So it seems to be a canister related issue so far (maybe a vacuum leak?). And my guess would be a vacuum leak somewhere, since that causes stalling, but who knows. Will keep following this thread. No SPs near me still, but I'd jump on one if available without crazy fees tacked on.
 

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Yamaha MT 09 SP 2021
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I don't think the kick stand switch could be blamed.When that happens ,1st gear is already engaged.The only thing that triggers the stall,is opening the throttle.
It could indeed be a vacuum leak due to a defect or bad design of the canister system.Since no one with a no-canister bike has the issue,that could be happening...
I guess someone could remove the canister and see if the problem goes away.
 

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So we have evap canister and non-evap canister models with the issue?
Has the kick stand switch been eliminated as the culprit?

There are reports of a similar issue with the Tracer/FJ going back a few years, but while decelerating and down-shifting into 2 or 1st gear. Some have mentioned the key not bing inserted all the way or turned all the way to the on position.

I don't ever recall having this issue with my FJ09, but I'll see if I get this on my MT09 which is due any day now. (y)
My Evap was removed & blocked off at the throttle body for the past 2000kms, problem is 10 times worse when I had my Akra fitted, I can reproduce the problem on take off from a stand still it's induced when accelerating, I tend to slip my clutch a little on quick take off's this over comes the problem every time.
 

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Yamaha MT 09 SP 2021
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
My Evap was removed & blocked off at the throttle body for the past 2000kms, problem is 10 times worse when I had my Akra fitted, I can reproduce the problem on take off from a stand still it's induced when accelerating, I tend to slip my clutch a little on quick take off's this over comes the problem every time.
Since you can reproduce the problem,do you mind taking a video while doing so a couple of times?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
After some city riding today,I noticed that it happened twice when I was releasing the clutch lever and it was at the point that the switch does the first clack.Maybe something to do with this?
 

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After some city riding today,I noticed that it happened twice when I was releasing the clutch lever and it was at the point that the switch does the first clack.Maybe something to do with this?
All to do with the mapping, throttle tables & AFR I know this 100%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
All to do with the mapping, throttle tables & AFR I know this 100%.
Without doubt ,that is the issue.I'm just trying to pinpoint it more specifically.
Also it's not a user issue,as I have ridden a lot of bikes and never had issue like that.
I think that the idle speed is a bit weak and as soon as the clutch disengages a bit,the engine has no power to keep up and stalls.If you open the throttle earlier,it rarely happens but then the starts are awfull and the clutch disks also get more stressed.
 

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Without doubt ,that is the issue.I'm just trying to pinpoint it more specifically.
Also it's not a user issue,as I have ridden a lot of bikes and never had issue like that.
I think that the idle speed is a bit weak and as soon as the clutch disengages a bit,the engine has no power to keep up and stalls.If you open the throttle earlier,it rarely happens but then the starts are awfull and the clutch disks also get more stressed.
Agree, there is a very lean spot + the throttle progressions are flat hardly any progressions when the motor bogs below 1200rpms, the progression on the 2020 ECU only really starts from 4.7% below 1200rpm, I suspect the 2021 ECU is the same no throttle progressions from 1.1 to 4.7% throttle openings, I fix this in all my tunes. Below 2020 ECU throttle map 1st gear STD mode factory map you can see below 1500rpm poor progressions at 1.7% throttle the throttle blade closes 0.4 why Mr Yamaha.
165788


This is what it should look like to more progressive
165789
 

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Hello,

I received my 2021 SP 3 weeks ago and I'm still in the break in period with 600kms (400 miles) on it.
What has happened 3 times now ,is that when the engine is idling with the clutch lever pulled (like you do at a stop light) when I open the throttle to get started,the engine just dies ,like the ignition gets cut.No warning lights on the dash,all the electronics work.Then I push the starter ,engine starts like nothing happened and everything is ok.
It has happened twice at a stop light and once while I was lane splitting at low speed and had the clutch pulled and 1st gear in.
A friend working at a workshop told me that it could be due to bad gasoline or overfilling the tank ,as due to euro 5 the gasoline from the overflow gets back to the airbox and it could mess the fuel mix momentarily.
Truth is that I fueled up yesterday and they kind of overfilled it,so I will have to watch for it the nexti time.
Any other ideas on what else could be responsible for it?
Fortunately is hasn't occured with gear in while driving,as this could be pretty dangerous.
same issue when braking to a stop when clutch applied happened 10 times now in mode 3 and 4 .took it in for first service and i dont know the result yet on the stalling issue
 

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Yamaha MT 09 SP 2021
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The bike has now 2000kms on it.
Truth is that I have adapted at the way the throttle works.
On my previous bikes you just opened the throttle a bit and then release the clutch and it was a go.
With this one and the way Yamaha has tuned the map ,propably due to euro 5 ,I have figured out that not enough mixture is given on low throttle and to counter that you have to open throttle while you are realising the clutch in order for the bike not to stall.By doing that I haven't had the bike stall for about a month.
Well it is going to get mapped when the ECU gets cracked because tbh,I don't really trust it as I do have the anxiety that it could stall anytime as at low revs you can feel that it's weak and can stall anytime.
 

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The bike has now 2000kms on it.
Truth is that I have adapted at the way the throttle works.
On my previous bikes you just opened the throttle a bit and then release the clutch and it was a go.
With this one and the way Yamaha has tuned the map ,propably due to euro 5 ,I have figured out that not enough mixture is given on low throttle and to counter that you have to open throttle while you are realising the clutch in order for the bike not to stall.By doing that I haven't had the bike stall for about a month.
Well it is going to get mapped when the ECU gets cracked because tbh,I don't really trust it as I do have the anxiety that it could stall anytime as at low revs you can feel that it's weak and can stall anytime.
thanks Dante i just got it back from service last night and they know nothing about it so like u said will have to wait for the ecu update and change my braking style for now
 

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I've got a few hundred miles on my bike now and since mile 1 I've had an issue with clutch judder. It gets better when the engine is up to temp but it never goes away completely. When taking off while the engine is still cold, I can feel heavy pulsing through the clutch lever and the engine stumbles so launches take more throttle than normal to avoid stalling. I'm eager to open up the clutch case and inspect it to see what the issue might be. I have a hard time imagining what would cause the clutch to rapidly catch and release like that (maybe 10 times per second) unless maybe one of the clutch plates is warped or broken. But, again, my bike did it from the first mile - I am the first and only person to ever ride the bike from new.

I don't know if your random stalling issue is similar or not but I thought it worth mentioning.
 

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This happened to me today as well while coasting to stop sign with clutch lever pulled in completely and revving the throttle a bit just for fun, then the engine stalled and I just pressed the ignition and started right up. To me this is an ECU mapping thing, a very similar thing happened to me with a older ducati that I had installed a full system and no new mapping. Once I mapped it, it stopped happening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Yeah,a friend of mine who works at a workshop told me that they can flash my bike now.
But he also told me to be a bit patient and wait for the new settings to get tested first at other bikes.
Propably at Christmas I'll get my Dominator exhaust,a DNA air filter and get my bike tuned.
Next week I'm going for the first track day with the 09 too.
Kev if you don't mind,when you work on the map,post your changes here so we can have an idea of how bad the stock is :p
 

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I just got my 2021 MT09 standard (no canister) last week, and this problem happened twice to me today while down-shifting. It was about 50F when I was riding.

I'm not discounting the possibility that this is a rider technique issue, but I also have a 2021 NInja 400 that I'm breaking-in as well and no issues with that bike for 300 miles now.

The first time it happened I had 97 miles on the odometer, and very shortly after I started testing the auto-blipper. Coming to a stop light, I believe I auto-blipped from 4th->3rd->2nd and then used the clutch to manually blip to 1st. The engine died as I rolled to a stop.

It happened again at around 130 miles on the odometer. I manually blipped from 4th->3rd->2nd, and the engine died as I tried to accelerate. This scenario was more dangerous as cars behind me were also starting to accelerate. I'm glad I was able to safely roll to a stop on the side of the road.

In both cases, I was able to start the engine with no isssues.

Based on what Dante and kevxtx have experienced, I might just have to adopt my clutch-throttle technique to the bike and how its electronics are setup...keeping the clutch in the friction zone longer when accelerating after a series of down-shifts.

If after my "rider mod" this problem still happens, I can try 2 other things:
  • Use the auto-blipper 100% of the time and see if the problem still happens.
  • If the problem still happens, disable the auto-blipper

I'm bummed out. I read through this thread before buying the bike but I was hoping that the issue wouldn't happen to me.
 
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