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Discussion Starter #1
I have been enjoying my setup for a few weeks now but every now and again, the revs die and return during pulling off in first. It keeps cycling and so I start pogoing down the road until I pull in the clutch of kick into 2nd. First time was pretty scary. Have lost confidence pulling off now and has killed the enjoyment to say the least. Anyone come across this already? I have after market levers and my foot is clear of the shifter when this happens. I am not 100% sure if the clutch is fully out when it happens. Will try and note next time. I'm assuming this is a Quick Shifter issue but it was fine before the upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So, I am going to put the OEM Clutch Lever back on and see if that helps with the issue as an easy, quick step.
 

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Do you have the optional switch for Pit Speed Limiter?
If so, with the button pushed in you might have activated Warm-Up Mode, where the idle cycles as you have described.
This switch is not a momentary switch and when pushed in, it stays in. Simply push the button to have it release.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm, interesting, thanks.
No, I didnt have this option but could it be triggered somehow? The cycle seems to rev and drop at 1 to 2 sec intervals. Pulling clutch in and or changing gear seems to fix it. Thought it might be the clutch switch playing up so have tried disconnecting it for an hour then reconnecting it. I opened the switch and cleaned it first. It doesnt happen all the time and has only happened about 3 or 4 times in the last 2 months. It's just my weekend bike so doesnt get loads of action.
I can chat with the guy who flashed the ecu and installed it but all he said was to try a standard clutch lever. That was the first thing that Woolich will say. They said that when the auto blip didnt work. Turned out it was their software. It wasnt seeing the gears index so they did a code fix.
I cant seem to reproduce the fault on demand. I'll try pulling off at different rpms and rates and see what happens... thanks for your reply and taking and interest.
It could also just be a coincidental dodgy coil pack... it does seem quite jerky when idling along in first ... ut is that just a tripple characteristic?
 

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Well, if you don’t have the optional switch plugged into the Woolich harness, there will be an empty connector on the harness that is just open. Could be some moisture in this connector trying to make the “switch connection”? You could try flushing this empty connector with WD-40 and then maybe filling it with some dielectric grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well, if you don’t have the optional switch plugged into the Woolich harness, there will be an empty connector on the harness that is just open. Could be some moisture in this connector trying to make the “switch connection”? You could try flushing this empty connector with WD-40 and then maybe filling it with some dielectric grease.
Thanks Harry. I will have to look for the harness. The quickshifter connects to the old O2 Sensor wiring so am not sure of the additional wiring. A shop installed it. I see a connector for the laptop by the battery from under the tank that must be coming from the ECU. Will have a look.
The kangerooing happened again on Sunday. It was after a few hours of riding. Was a warm day. Cleaning the clutch switch didnt help then. I should have left it unplugged too but I was too keen to use the autoblip on the twisties. I will probably just leave the Quickshifter unplugged for the next ride. See if it is a quickshifer switch issue on the shifter. The shifter arm moves about on the shifter spline which I thought was strange. I would have though that should have been clamped.
159761

Was just thinking alignment issues on the quickshifter switch.
 

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“ The shifter arm moves about on the shifter spline which I thought was strange. I would have though that should have been clamped.”

This is not good. The Allen screw that secures the clamp to the splined rod needs to be tightened.
If you leave it loose with play, it will wear the spline teeth.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Exactly @abe57 , in and out WRT the gearbox!
I have asked the tech who fitted it to confirm how it should be as he would have taken it off to fit the switch. The service book says 14NM which is not crazy tight. Whether that is good enough for clamping the spline, who knows. I couldn't get my torque wrench in there but the bolt was on there tight!
So the clutch switch is unplugged now. Quickshiftinig still works but this kills the auto blipping for the down shifting. Just need a nice day to go test it. Seemed to happen after a couple of hours.
@HarryD: Does warm up mode need it in gear and the clutch pulled it or doesnt it matter? Just trying to get a scenario in my head. I'm in First, pulling off, with revs when it happens. It really is quite unnerving...
 

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I see, on the shifter arm play. Yes the shaft will move in and out a little bit, but the shifter arm must not be loose on the shaft.
Regarding the Woolich issue, the Warm-Up Mode is normally used in neutral, and I believe should shut off when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. There is also a Pit Speed Limiter function that uses the same switch, but limits the RPM to maintain a speed. I was reaching to find something that could be affected if the open unused connector is perhaps shorted with moisture.
To eliminate the Woolich Race Tools harness from causing your issue, perhaps you can unplug it from the O2 Sensor connector. The ECU flash will run the bike, but all Quick Shifter/Auto Blipper function will be disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cheers @HarryD. Disconnecting the quickshifter was my next step.
Just an update on things:
I have been on three rides now with the clutch switch disconnected and no kangarooing thus far. Quickshifting was still functioning but the autoblip was not. The Woolich flash must use this switch somehow for feedback/referencing but am still miffed as to why it should result in a kangarooing affect. Especially as to how dangerous it can be in the wrong situation.
I am going to build up the clutch switch tag on the clutch lever as it seems quite late to activate the switch. I would say it is probably flickering the switch state as I am pulling off.
I am also going to test holding the clutch in in first and giving some revs with the switch open and then closed. See if this instigates the issue.
 

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Cheers @HarryD. Disconnecting the quickshifter was my next step.
Just an update on things:
I have been on three rides now with the clutch switch disconnected and no kangarooing thus far. Quickshifting was still functioning but the autoblip was not. The Woolich flash must use this switch somehow for feedback/referencing but am still miffed as to why it should result in a kangarooing affect. Especially as to how dangerous it can be in the wrong situation.
I am going to build up the clutch switch tag on the clutch lever as it seems quite late to activate the switch. I would say it is probably flickering the switch state as I am pulling off.
I am also going to test holding the clutch in in first and giving some revs with the switch open and then closed. See if this instigates the issue.
I think you found your issue ,you need a properly working clutch switch ,it's like a confirm /denied check for ecu
 
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