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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, So I am doing my second replacement seal today on the right fork leg, and was planning on cleaning it out really good per stoltec's advice to see if that would stop the new seal from leaking as well, and discovered that it looks like fork oil may be leaking from the bottom of my fork near where the axle pinch nut is. If you look up into the bottom of the fork you can see an allen head screw, and I think the oil may be coming from there. There is no visible oil from the actual seal seeping down, like a trail I can find, it really looks like it has to be coming from there.

I put my hex key on it and tried to tighten it, but it is just spinning... Is there a seal on that part I need to replace as well?

2015-06-04 11.07.11.jpg

2015-06-04 11.06.44.jpg
 

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That should be your compression adjustment and I would think that yes, there would be a seal of some nature there, but I don't know for sure. I would talk to the person or company that sold it to you, which sounds like Stoltec. It should have a stop point in both directions so if that bolt is just spinning I'd say you have a problem there.
 

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Okay, just got back from out west and my buddies FJR was leaking fork oil through the seals like mad. The area has fine sand particles everywhere. Before I replaced the seals, I used a Motion Pro Seal Mate on the seals and dust wiper to remove the grit and try and save the seals. It took two tries but stopped the leak. We never had to replace the seals. In the old days we used 35mm camera film to try and save a pair of leaky seals, this is the next generation.

The leak at the bottom is probably coming from the hex bolt that you referred to. The long of the short is that bolt holds your cartridge inside the fork leg. The easy way is to remove the fork leg, place a long socket over the fork adjuster on top, turn the fork leg over, apply pressure so that the spring will hold the cartridge tight, and tighten the hex bolt. The hard way, and the best way is to open up the fork, use a special long (FZ forks are longer than most of the available tools) cartridge rod holder tube tool, and tighten that way.

Fix Leaking Fork Seals With | SealMate.net
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Seal-Mate-Cleaner/dp/B0039LDF4A
 

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Is that not the compression adjuster? Shouldn't there be a stop of some nature in both directions? Am I completely off? Teach me Obi one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help so far guys, I am working on this as we speak, I have the fork off and seperated but I dont have the tool you speak of, and rather than wait for it I think I will try the other method... I'm off to buy a can of brake cleaner to blast out as much of the grit as I can before rebuilding it.

When you say "Place a long socket over the fork adjuster on top" are you referring to the spring preload adjuster, and do this with the fork assembled?

By the way, stoltec didn't sell this to me, I am just replacing the seals. I was just referring to the fact that he advised me to clean them out as they were probably dirty. Also I am going to 15w fork oil...

PS, God I love this forum... instant "expert" help!
 

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Yes, the socket will protect the preload adjuster when you compress the forks to keep the rod from turning when you tighten the hex bolt. Here is the problem. Yamaha uses locktite on the threads of the bolt to keep it from doing what it did with you. If you remove the cartridge, you will have to brush the threads off with a wire brush. The least little bit of loctite that breaks free can clog the valve stack.

I made a tool from PVC that I posted in a thread about fork service on the forum somewhere.

Tool:
fork tool.jpg
 

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Is that not the compression adjuster? Shouldn't there be a stop of some nature in both directions? Am I completely off? Teach me Obi one.
There is no compression adjuster on the FZ forks. If there were, it would be at the side so you can get at it with the axle installed. That bolt is most definitely the cartridge holder bolt.

When you say "Place a long socket over the fork adjuster on top" are you referring to the spring preload adjuster, and do this with the fork assembled?
I believe what Doug meant was to put the socket over so that when you flip the fork upside down to get at the lower bolt you won't damage the rebound adjuster on the top since it'll be on the floor.

Edit: posting at the same time, see Doug's reply ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
OK, thanks guys. So i guess my next project will be tearing all of this apart again to clean out the loctite I break loose, eh?

dear god...

also, on the inside of the bottome tube, I noticed some rusty discoloration... I'm not going to bother with it right now but is that normal? This whole fork just seems f'd up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I think it worked... I'm 90% sure I will be doing this again, as my rod holder magnet had some metal shavings on it as I touched it to the rod I saw it, and pulled it out hopefully before anything fell in... but that is never my luck.

I used a ratchet tie down strap to compress the fork and tighten the bolt on the bottom. its too small for my ratchet to get in there and properly torque it so I went "good-n-tight" torque on it.
 
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