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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
drain-plug.jpg 20140524_163617_resized.jpg 20140524_163512_resized.jpg

here's a comparison of what I have found that will fit the FZ09, #1 is the stock plug, the wider plug is from magneticdrainplugs.com and has a torx 45 with an o-ring seal
model# 1074m about $7 plus shipping, the smaller plug is from belmetric.com and has a 6mm allen and is shown with the old crush washer in place model# DP14x1.5AH about $2.90 plus shipping. The wider one has a magnetic end and I think could have the o-ring groove widened to use the crush washer, I currently like the small 6mm allen model it is coned at the top to align the crush washer but both offer better clearance and the guard could be reduced in size also for matching clearance, all photos show the
crack in between the guard and plug from a minor impact to the guard only. The damaged pan will be repaired and strengthened with additional bottom plating to match the new plug and give a recessed look- will post when finished.
Later Rick
 

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Neat!

I am doing some research as well and might have another plug to choose from. I will know tomorrw and post my findings.
 
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IMO torx head bolts are good for low torque spec applications only, such as bolting on plastic panels. Ive got plenty of these on my Can-am Spyder holding important higher torqued metal pieces together and let me tell you, its a flat out bastard getting them off without damaging the bolts. You have to hold pressure down on the bolt plus pressure turning the bolt and if you dont hold down enough, you round it off. I need a real wrench to fit in these situations and I have a little GearWrench kit with a little ratchet that will hold torq bits. Ive just about ruined that little wrench replacing certain torx head bolts with proper bolts that you can fit a real wrench on.

As for the 6mm hex head plug, I feel about the same except the fact you can actually use a real wrench provided you have a hex socket set. Even then youve got to make sure to seat the socket all the way in and hope it doesnt start rounding out. Again, my Spyder had a 6mm drain plug, and as tight as it was on from the dealer, I nearly rounded it out. I replaced it with a plug with a real bolt head on it just like we have stock on our fz-09 from the factory. Id feel differently if it was at least 8mm. The bigger the better.
 

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I like the idea of an 8mm allen key instead of 6mm, but shipping etc from Australia, is there an USA source?
 

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Daltmeyer speaks wisdom. Listen to the wisdom. I have rounded of my share of Tory and small Allen bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
IMO torx head bolts are good for low torque spec applications only, such as bolting on plastic panels. Ive got plenty of these on my Can-am Spyder holding important higher torqued metal pieces together and let me tell you, its a flat out bastard getting them off without damaging the bolts. You have to hold pressure down on the bolt plus pressure turning the bolt and if you dont hold down enough, you round it off. I need a real wrench to fit in these situations and I have a little GearWrench kit with a little ratchet that will hold torq bits. Ive just about ruined that little wrench replacing certain torx head bolts with proper bolts that you can fit a real wrench on.

As for the 6mm hex head plug, I feel about the same except the fact you can actually use a real wrench provided you have a hex socket set. Even then youve got to make sure to seat the socket all the way in and hope it doesnt start rounding out. Again, my Spyder had a 6mm drain plug, and as tight as it was on from the dealer, I nearly rounded it out. I replaced it with a plug with a real bolt head on it just like we have stock on our fz-09 from the factory. Id feel differently if it was at least 8mm. The bigger the better.
I agree that the torx model is not what I would use, where the 6mm allen socket is quite deep and I feel comfortable with that one, but I am still quite open to other solutions and am glad others have been looking also, the 8mm one may be the best yet and I will be checking that out also plus any others forum members can locate. to answer julianziggy a racing friend of mine who has skills I don't said he will machine it off for me and look at strengthening ideas when I have compiled all the possible plugs and ideas to consider. This is a work in progress and its great that others are thinking of solutions and possible problems to could arise I want a fix not additional issues.
Thanx all Rick
 

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like the thought process here as ive seen the photos of the wrecked sump and as to the aussie item its probably from the usa initially anyway .... sad but true with so low a population we just dont make much anymore
 

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What I have done in the past with similar applications, was to simply grind down the head of the bolt slightly. Making sure there is enough surface area to use with a 6 point socket.

Take a good look at the bolt in the photo, the raised circular area and the rounded corners are not providing much contact area anyhow. Touch up with clear spray and call it done.
 

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I like the wider one..

and for the record,Torx bolts are actually designed to take a higher torque than the same sized hex bolt.....the problem is that many of the tools people use are either cheap, or not the right size.

you need to make sure the fastener is clean and you are fully engaged in it , they have a tendency to hold dirt and grit.

If your Torx bit is even a little loose, you need the next size up.. cheap or improper size will round these off easily.

and the easiest way to remove a damaged torx is to get the right size bit and hammer it in nice and straight.. ..most of the time this will remove them.
 

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I agree that the torx model is not what I would use, where the 6mm allen socket is quite deep and I feel comfortable with that one, but I am still quite open to other solutions and am glad others have been looking also, the 8mm one may be the best yet and I will be checking that out also plus any others forum members can locate. to answer julianziggy a racing friend of mine who has skills I don't said he will machine it off for me and look at strengthening ideas when I have compiled all the possible plugs and ideas to consider. This is a work in progress and its great that others are thinking of solutions and possible problems to could arise I want a fix not additional issues.
Thanx all Rick

I think if you bottom out enough to hit the stock bolt you will bottom out and hit the 'protection bridge' pushing that into the drain pan. I'm not sure the end result is much different.

Steve
 

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I like the wider one..

and for the record,Torx bolts are actually designed to take a higher torque than the same sized hex bolt.....the problem is that many of the tools people use are either cheap, or not the right size.

you need to make sure the fastener is clean and you are fully engaged in it , they have a tendency to hold dirt and grit.

If your Torx bit is even a little loose, you need the next size up.. cheap or improper size will round these off easily.

and the easiest way to remove a damaged torx is to get the right size bit and hammer it in nice and straight.. ..most of the time this will remove them.
He's right. A lot of GM vehicles come with Torx bolts holding the caliper carrier to the spindle and they require a breaker bar or 1/2 impact to remove them. If you have the correct size and a quality socket then you'll break the torx bit before you'll round out the head of the bolt. Just don't buy your tools at walmart or harbor freight. Get Snapon, Matco, OTC, or Bluepoint. I like the idea of the magnetic plug catching the extra metal shavings.

Are you guys scraping oil pans from normal riding? How did that even happen?
 

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Eh, what's normal? Maybe not, but compared to some other bikes the 09 doesn't ground out gracefully, instead of a ding it fails.

Riders have damaged the area several ways, I think the most recent went over unfamiliar railroad tracks, got air time, bottomed out on flat pavement. Few hundred feet later crashed because of oil on tire, broke collar bone.
 

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Suspension is worth upgrading for other reasons. For this, I don't know if it makes a difference on the rear. On the front I guess so.
 

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and for the record,Torx bolts are actually designed to take a higher torque than the same sized hex bolt.....the problem is that many of the tools people use are either cheap, or not the right size. .

Imo the problem is the itty bitty torx bits designed to fit into mutipurpose screwdriver handles that were not designed for higher torque.

Maybe there's a 3/8 drive torx socket set out there. I just haven't seen one or bothered to look.

I know those 1/4 adapter extention will spin or bend right in half in a heartbeat. But this is the same size as a torx bit. Talk about cheap and the wrong size... That's torx.
 

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Imo the problem is the itty bitty torx bits designed to fit into mutipurpose screwdriver handles that were not designed for higher torque.

Maybe there's a 3/8 drive torx socket set out there. I just haven't seen one or bothered to look.

I know those 1/4 adapter extention will spin or bend right in half in a heartbeat. But this is the same size as a torx bit. Talk about cheap and the wrong size... That's torx.
Don't get a torx driver set. Get a 1/4 torx socket set and a long handled 1/4 ratchet for leverage. If you cant find a long 1/4 ratchet then use the open end of a box end wrench to add torque to your short ratchet. You'll be looking for a 6 inch long, 1/4 ratchet.
 

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Looks like I will be getting a new bolt and a die grinder out to shave the guard down. Sometimes I park on sidewalks and pop down, and it appears that is all that it takes to crack the pan, oil the back tire, and crash my brains out.
 
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