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I like the final mounting much better than the one with the big white foam block. I have a lot of Li-on batteries and they get hot. Kayak fitting foam works really well for mounting - there's less heat at the corners, so I'd try to just use the spacers there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I like the final mounting much better than the one with the big white foam block. I have a lot of Li-on batteries and they get hot. Kayak fitting foam works really well for mounting - there's less heat at the corners, so I'd try to just use the spacers there.
The battery comes charged at 70% and you have to charge it before install. I did this on the table next to the computer so I could keep an eye on it. It has a max charge rate of 10A and I applied only the 2 amp rate from the car charger because of the over high voltage from the 6A rate. It charged at 1A and the current dropped from there when the voltage started to rise and I did not notice any heat in the battery at all. Stayed at room temp the whole time. I stopped charging at 14.5V and the current had dropped to near zero.
No nasty acid smell either! I like that.

There are a bunch of different Lithium battery formulations, but the LiFePO4 seems to be the one to use. Low heat generation too.
In the original mounting position, the white foam was insulated with extra spacers to the battery. In the sideways position, the battery is directly on the white foam at the bottom. But with the 14.2V from the bike, I doubt it will generate a lot of heat.

If it ever causes a problem, I will let the forum know - I can screw up with the best of them.
I already had the "house" foam laying around. Don't have a Kayak, but would like a rowing scull at some point - perhaps with training floaties :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I know you guys like a puzzler, so here it is
Just got the bike out today to ride it after it sitting for 1 1/2 months and the battery can't turn the engine over.
I have put it back on charge after checking the voltage, which was down to 10 volts, it charged back up in 10 minutes.

Thought I had better check the wiring harness to see if there any current draws - there shouldn't be as there is nothing I have added to do that.
Battery tender claims their self discharge rate is much better than a lead acid - so it should be fine.
Here's the testing I did

So is there a current draw or not???
I don't know what the bike harness is doing
 

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Rich.......there is NO phantom current draw, as evidenced by your DC milliAmp test......as long as you had your meter leads plugged into the correct holes in the meter. The K-ohm reading is gradually going down because you are holding the battery terminal lead with your bare hands most likely. Everyone has a certain amount of "resistance" and it will depend on body weight, muscle density, humidity in the air, how tightly or lose that you are holding the leads, etc. If our bodies didn't have resistance, you wouldn't even be able to touch the pos. and neg. battery terminals without getting shocked......even at just 12 volts. I would be more suspicious of the battery being bad or going bad.
 
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The standard battery is installed on it's side.It is shown that way in the service manual too.
Mine was not installed on it side.
 

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Ill have to take your word as I took it out some time ago and replaced it...didn't seem to be on its side though:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Rich.......there is NO phantom current draw, as evidenced by your DC milliAmp test......as long as you had your meter leads plugged into the correct holes in the meter. The K-ohm reading is gradually going down because you are holding the battery terminal lead with your bare hands most likely.
Yes, you are right!!! - I was measuring my own resistance - thanks for pointing that out.

I tried starting it this morning and it was slow to crank and wouldn't start until I stopped the crank and then re cranked, then it fired right up. Which puts this battery at about the same level as the old lead acid one I was getting rid of.
Had a look at the multi-meter and there is a switch for either 10A or 200mA. I had it set on 10A, switching to 200mA max it read 0.5mA current draw. Probably enough to run that clock in the instrument panel.

I did fire an e-mail off to battery tender dot com, so they should be contacting me soon with an RMA - good job it is light for shipping

Coincidently - the battery in our corolla died at the same time - under 2 years for that one. Consumer reports just rated batteries and I must say I liked their test method... they put the batteries in a hot water bath at 167F and see how long they go thru their cycle. For group 35, the walmart maxx 35N was best - just got it in and on slow charge. Made in korea.
 

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i looked up starkpower,they dont seem to have a battery for the fz09,nice batteries though
You can't go by their battery finder app. They did, and will, make one of appropriate size and amperage. As Fizzerpilot said, their new line
will debut in the Spring, and that's when I will place my order. American made with interesting and useful technology/features.
Almost certainly the last battery I will ever need for the 09.
 

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They have internal cell balancing, charge protection, and my favorite... The battery will shut itself off before it is drained below a level that will crank the bike! Very good battery. Mine sits for three months at a time, and always spins the bike up quick.
 
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