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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 2 years in Arizona the stock battery is on it's last legs.
I can get a cheap lead acid one from Amazon (my normal M.O. as batteries die fast here, 2-3 years tops)
OR should I get a Lithium Iron Phosphate like this one?

The blurb says the operating temp is 40-140F, so that should work for me... but what happens below 40F, does it just lose charge or do the CCA's go away

Anyone done a change to LiFe yet
 

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From now on, I will be replacing all future motorcycle batteries with Lithium based batteries until they come up with something better.

Buy the battery that fills the space and has the maximum capacity you can cram into the stock space. Do not go with the stock rated output lithium battery as then you may have issues when you are at the margins like at 40 degrees and 140 degrees. Go with a larger capacity battery that fits in the space.

It will still be lighter and have a lot more storage capacity.
 

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The blurb says the operating temp is 40-140F, so that should work for me... but what happens below 40F, does it just lose charge or do the CCA's go away
When they are cold they dont work so well. people have reported that they need to "warm them up by applying a load. usually leaving the headlight on for a minute or two will work but this is not an option with the FZ..others have said that after trying to crank the engine a few times, the battery "warms up"and starts working at full capacity .
 
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the headlight won't turn on until the engine is started, but the flash to pass button bypasses the headlight relay, so you can hold the button down without starting the engine and the high beam will light up. you can 'warm up' the battery this way, although if you need to do it for more than a couple of seconds it's probably easier just to try cranking the engine.
 

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I have LiFe on all the bikes except the FZ... That will happen sometime soon, do you want my Stock battery cheap? 4 months and 1,900 miles on it... Short ride, talk shit about bikes for a few, yours for $40
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Some good advice here
I will have to measure the hole size then (a task for tomorrow)
The other option was purchasing one of these - it had free shipping, how could I resist.

Sounds like it may well worth the jump to some new tech
 

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Weight down = performance up. My 12 cell Ballistic sits for months at a time then cranks like crazy.
 

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That's garbage... sorry, hope I don't offend.

Some good advice here
I will have to measure the hole size then (a task for tomorrow)
The other option was purchasing one of these - it had free shipping, how could I resist.

Sounds like it may well worth the jump to some new tech
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, but as you know, batteries die fast here in phoenix - so it is pointless sinking a lot of money into a Yuasa that will last 3-4 years, when a cheap chinese import will go 2 years for 1/3rd the cost.
The only place it's worth spending money is on a car battery, where you go for the longest warantee you can get and if you can get a 3 year replacement with another 5 years prorated, you can come out ahead (except for the inconvenience) when the battery dies in 2-3 years.

This is why I'm interested in breaking the chain on lead acid and jumping to newer tech. If that "battery tender" LiFe model can go 6 years min, I'm in. Plus if I can prove it for the bikes, I may take the same plunge with the cars.

So has anyone had one fail?
What happens when 1 cell dies? do the other cells try to charge it and start a fire??
What is the longest time anyone has got out of a LiFe battery?
 

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Stark has some good tech built in to their batteries, and they charge with a simple wall wort. They also construct the batteries in OEM dimensions (except for weight) so that the battery fits your battery box. Some may not like this, but I do.

My battery weighs like 2 pounds, and cranks so much faster than the OEM 9 pounder ever could. I think it set me back $160... But what is money anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, so I took the plunge and installed the Battery Tender BTL14A240C Today.
Had to bend around the ground terminal a bit to make sure it didn't rub on the battery case and used not only some of the supplied spacers, but also removed the stock spacer and cut a piece of house foam to fill most of the space (It was handy, I already had a slab).

Put a volt meter on the battery and started it - The voltage hardly dropped at all and it seemed to settle around a charging voltage of 14.2 to 14.25. The max recommended is 14.8V, so well under that. You do have to be careful with battery chargers! I found the old 2/6amp charger I have puts out too much voltage at the 6 amp rate - over 15V when hooked up to a regular car battery and it can climb as high as 14.5V on the 2 amp rate.

So the bike charges fine, but if you use a charger, put a voltmeter across it and watch it carefully, the voltage climbs rapidly when near fully charged

The old stock battery is one of those install in any position batteries and it is installed on it's "side" Wonder if they did that to avoid rubbing on the seat???
I'll check after getting back from a ride to the gym. That would change all the spacers around!
 

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The old stock battery is one of those install in any position batteries and it is installed on it's "side" Wonder if they did that to avoid rubbing on the seat???
I'll check after getting back from a ride to the gym. That would change all the spacers around!
Thats odd..are you saying it was actually on its side?..Mine was installed normally
 
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One thing with a Lithium motorcycle battery. Has anyone ever checked to see what kind of running temperatures get up to in the battery box under the seat? Like on a hot summer day when you get stuck in traffic when the cooling fan kicks in?

Just curious if the battery's max operating temp of +140°F would be an issue in a case like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have not measured the temps, but the 140F max is better than a lead acid battery. I had a Suzuki Intruder shop manual at one time that said to stop charging the battery when it reached 105F - which is 2 degrees below our average June high temp in AZ. Battery university claims that the ideal lead acid temp is 77F for 10 year life and the life cuts in half every 15F above that.
Both of these theories jive with the short battery lives out here in the desert. 2-3 years for a car and 3-4 years for a bike (this one went a bit early)
The only thing you have to watch for is not charging it when it is cold. Apparently something plates out on the anode or cathode, but that could refer to the non-LiFePO4 batteries - google this "lithium iron phosphate battery temperature range" and see if you can make sense of the various claims.
At least these people show a different temp range for charging and discharging How to charge Lithium Iron Phosphate lithium ion battery packs including packs with high current and High Capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thats odd..are you saying it was actually on its side?..Mine was installed normally
Yes, I'll take a picture of it later - pretty sure the fill plate is on the side in the OEM installed position. If it's an AGM or gell battery, that should work, but I just have to wonder.

More importantly...
I checked the LiFePO4 battery for contacting the seat and it does!!! I had to pull the left side panel half off to see it, but when lowering the seat I could see it contacting the rubber hold down strap and then pivoting on that before the seat snapped into position. Tried taking a photo, but I can't control the focus range so no good. I think the -ve battery bolt was also hitting the seat.

Had to re-arrange the battery so it was laying on its side and provide spacers for that. I'll get some pics prepped for that and post it here. The nice thing about the battery tender battery is the 4 outlet posts (2+ & 2-) allow you to do this without major re-routing of the cables and the battery just doesn't care which way it is mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So the battery swap was a little trickier than it should have been, so here are all the details I can remember.











 
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