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Hey everyone, so I bought a brand new 2017 fz-09 in December of 2017 with 13 miles on it. At about 4k miles I got the ecu flashed from vcyclenut for a Toce exhaust tune and then installed a Toce exhaust, no other performance mods. 2 days ago while sitting in traffic I noticed white smoke that smelled sweet-ish. Immediately checked the bike temp and it was at ~200 degrees but not going over. The smoke lasted about a minute and then went away. I finished my commute and took a look at the bike and what I noticed was that something was burnt on the headers. Pictures are attached. The only thing that I can see is that something leaked out of the middle header. I've ridden the bike probably 100 miles since then (that's the only vehicle i have right now) and it doesnt seem to have gotten any worse or leaked any more since then. The bike just turned 12k and I've done all of the maintenance at their intervals up to this point so far. The coolant level and engine oil look good. Any ideas? PS. The drops on the ground in the last picture are from me trying to clean it off the headers. It's pretty stuck on there. https://imgur.com/a/TH6j3I9
 

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The only thing that would smell sweet-ish when burning is glycol alcohol, (anti -freeze, coolant). The smoke was probably steam. Good luck.
 

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Maybe the radiator overflow bottle was a little overfull and dripped out of the pipe...its in about the righ position. Alternative is the rad cap is on its way out or wasnt fully closed...latter is a long shot.
 

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Was the white smoke coming out of your exhaust? Blown head gasket? Is it running rough?
 

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Maybe the radiator overflow bottle was a little overfull and dripped out of the pipe...its in about the righ position. Alternative is the rad cap is on its way out or wasnt fully closed...latter is a long shot.
I'll have to look at those things, I haven't had a problem since though so im thinking it might just be some splatter from the road or something
 

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Is the Toce a full system? —> new exhaust gaskets or reused when installed?

Have you topped off the coolant with water? —> if enough water was added, the coolant would dilute and boil at 200F, perhaps spill onto the headers. Just throwing out ideas.
 

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...if enough water was added, the coolant would dilute and boil at 200F, perhaps spill onto the headers. Just throwing out ideas.
A weak coolant solution WILL NOT boil at 200°F in a pressurized cooling system.

Even straight water in a sealed, pressurized cooling system likely has a boiling point of 240°F to 250°F, depending on the elevation.



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...if enough water was added, the coolant would dilute and boil at 200F, perhaps spill onto the headers. Just throwing out ideas.
A weak coolant solution WILL NOT boil at 200°F in a pressurized cooling system.

Even straight water in a sealed, pressurized cooling system likely has a boiling point of 240°F to 250°F, depending on the elevation.



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Your assuming the OP has a pressurized system...

If the coolant level drops, the head space caused by the air entering the system will lower the pressure and the water WILL boil at a lower temperature. That’s why I asked if the OP needed to add water.

Also- elevation doesn’t matter if it’s a sealed pressurized system, the partial pressure needed for equilibrium is determined by the atmosphere inside the closed pressure vessel, not external environment conditions such as elevation.

Might have missed it, but what do you think is the cause? Didn’t state that this was the solution, looking for more clues to solve the problem.
 

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...if enough water was added, the coolant would dilute and boil at 200F, perhaps spill onto the headers. Just throwing out ideas.
A weak coolant solution WILL NOT boil at 200°F in a pressurized cooling system.

Even straight water in a sealed, pressurized cooling system likely has a boiling point of 240°F to 250°F, depending on the elevation.



Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Your assuming the OP has a pressurized system...

If the coolant level drops, the head space caused by the air entering the system will lower the pressure and the water WILL boil at a lower temperature. That’s why I asked if the OP needed to add water.

Also- elevation doesn’t matter if it’s a sealed pressurized system, the partial pressure needed for equilibrium is determined by the atmosphere inside the closed pressure vessel, not external environment conditions such as elevation.

Might have missed it, but what do you think is the cause? Didn’t state that this was the solution, looking for more clues to solve the problem.
OP- check that your rad cap is sealing properly, and the security bolt is not interfering with the cap laying flat.
 

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Your assuming the OP has a pressurized system...

If the coolant level drops, the head space caused by the air entering the system will lower the pressure and the water WILL boil at a lower temperature. That’s why I asked if the OP needed to add water.

Also- elevation doesn’t matter if it’s a sealed pressurized system, the partial pressure needed for equilibrium is determined by the atmosphere inside the closed pressure vessel, not external environment conditions such as elevation.

Might have missed it, but what do you think is the cause? Didn’t state that this was the solution, looking for more clues to solve the problem.
Unless there's a leak it is pressurised, and even with air in the system thermal expansion will increase the pressure to the level that the cap releases. Air will expand when heated too.
 

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Not an answer but an observation...It seems many vehicles, cars included, are now built to only just meet performance levels....even the slightest of faults with any of the systems causes major problems.
 
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