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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it happened. And it sucks. A lot.

I went to visit my cousin in Pennsylvania this past weekend, and I was riding on route 568 (if you know this road you know how AWFUL it is in terms of visibility). Well, I was coming down a pretty steep hill and there's a right turn at the bottom of this hill at about 85%. A car was coming around this turn and up the hill right as I was coming down the hill and about to enter the turn. The car entered my lane (I do not believe it was intentional). I performed a panic break (panic because it was either stop or risk hitting the front left side of the car head-on), and the back tire slipped out from under me. I jerked slightly to the right, the tire grabbed, and it slingshotted me left. I lowsided going about 30 MPH. Luckily there wasn't a car coming up the hill as I was sliding or I may not be here writing this...I watched the bike slide away from me, and the back end of the bike hit a guard rail post. I immediently got up, ran over to the bike, shut it down, dragged it out from underneath the guardrail, picked it up, and inspected the damage. I sustained a bit of road rash on my arm despite wearing a textile jacket (everything else on my upper body was fine; the jacket ripped at the bottom of the elbow armor) and some road rash on my left knee as well as a badly sprained foot. Overall not too bad. The bike was, surprisingly, not too bad either! My shorty cluntch was busted and so was the right footpeg. My OES frame slider saved my tank! There is only 1 very very small chip on the paint, not even visible unless you know its there. The swingarm is a little scratched, but I had spool sliders on so that saved it a lot (although the spool bolt broke off in the swingarm). The left side engine cover is pretty scraped up (since that extends past the frame slider, it took quite a beating). I was able to get a new clutch from a dealer and when I installed it, the -09 fired right up like nothing happened! I was really impressed! No fluid leaking at all! I was able to ride the bike back to my cousin's house and actually make the 400+ mile trip back from Pennsylvania to Massachusetts without any problems!
When it comes right down to it, I do NOT blame the driver of the car. I blame myself. I should have been going slower just in case something like that would happen. I should have planned and expected there to be a car coming, and I didn't. It's a tough lesson to learn, but given the minimal damage incurred (both to myself and the bike), I think it's a cheap lesson to learn...

The only part of the bike that is really really damaged is the tail. The tail impacted the guard rail very hard and shattered my newly installed Blaster-X LED taillight :(

Here are some pictures of the tail.




I plan on taking the bike to the dealer this Saturday for an estimate and a parts list. I roughly estimated about $450 worth of parts. I do NOT have collision insurance (not even worth it at this point being over $1500/year for me).

My question to you all is this: Do you think that, given the damage seen here, it would be possible to do these repairs myself or should I pay the dealer's mechanic to fix it?
Right now the seat will NOT come off the bike. The seat latch and bracket are wadded and bent together as you can see in the picture.
Obviously I can repair the footpeg myself. I may need the dealer to drill out the spool slider bolt that broke off in the swingarm (not sure if I can use another spool slider on that side after this...it may not work properly).

The sub-frame that goes under the seat requires a weird star-tool with the center opened (see picture). If I do this job myself, where can I get a tool to take these bolts out?

I can take more pictures if needed for assessing the ability to fix it myself.

I appreciate everyone's insight!
 

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The rear brake is NOT your friend, especially coming down a hill where the rear end is light anyway. Glad you didn't get hurt a lot worse and sorry to hear about this. Heal up quick.
 

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Glad you are ok. If the seat pan is ruined, then just force or cut out the seat to remove. Try using a Torex or allen key for that bolt. Start with a torex since that's what in looks like.
 

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Glad you are OK, that could have ended really bad!

If you rode 400 miles afterward, you will have a very good indication of fork and frame alignment in the wear on your tires. Barring any mainframe or steering head issues, I see no reason not to do the work yourself if mechanically inclined. The subframe bolts are a size T50 Torx: and Craftsman makes a set of Tamper Proof Torx bits that fit a 1/4" drive socket. I have that set, and confirmed the T50 is what you need as long as it is the Tamper Proof one.

Good luck, and glad you're still with us!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The rear brake is NOT your friend, especially coming down a hill where the rear end is light anyway. Glad you didn't get hurt a lot worse and sorry to hear about this. Heal up quick.
I probably went 70% front brake and 30% rear. It sounds cliche but it really did happen too fast, the last thing I felt before losing it was the back tire fishtail on me.

Glad you are ok. If the seat pan is ruined, then just force or cut out the seat to remove. Try using a Torex or allen key for that bolt. Start with a torex since that's what in looks like.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I haven't tried removing the bolts for the seat lock yet. Maybe if I losen the 4 bolts from the bottom it will take some tension off the locking mechanism enough for me to get it loose. Thanks for the recommendation!

Glad you are OK, that could have ended really bad!

If you rode 400 miles afterward, you will have a very good indication of fork and frame alignment in the wear on your tires. Barring any mainframe or steering head issues, I see no reason not to do the work yourself if mechanically inclined. The subframe bolts are a size T50 Torx: and Craftsman makes a set of Tamper Proof Torx bits that fit a 1/4" drive socket. I have that set, and confirmed the T50 is what you need as long as it is the Tamper Proof one.

Good luck, and glad you're still with us!
Thanks, I definitely feel very lucky given what happened and what could have happened.
Tires actually look really good. There's some minor scuffing on the outside where they slid on the road, but I had a dealer in PA check them out to make sure they'd make the trip. I'll have the mechanic check for any catastrophic damage like you mentioned, but hopefully I would have noticed if there was any during the 7 hour ride home. Still worth checking out though.
Thanks for the Torx spec, I'll get one on order. I appreciate the concern, and rest assured this will NOT scare me from getting back on 2 wheels ;)

Did the car stop?
No. But honestly I don't think they even saw me go down. The turn is so sharp and the trees within the turn are very thick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thats a highside if you flipped

if the damage in the pics is the only, which i doubt. then it is an easy fix
Nope, didn't flip. I jerked to the right, then back to the left and went down on the left side. The bike slid on its left side.
The only other damage to the bike is a broke right foot peg, scraped up left engine cover, and a broken clutch. The frame slider got annihilated though, so it did its job. I'll snap some more pics when I get home.

You said its an easy fix? I assume all these parts are plug-and-play, so pending me getting the busted crap off you're saying it should be do-able? I appreciate the insight :)

btw i recommend yamahapartshouse.com
Thanks! I'll take a look. I was pricing the parts off the Yamaha website.
 

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If ordering the parts online, watch out for shipping charges, they can be rediculous. Also inquire about combining parts in one order to reduce shipping costs.
 

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They're good. Boats.net is a bit cheaper but as they haven't updated their website yet, you have to call to order FZ09 parts. Good dependable source though. Glad you came through in decent shape. You'll have her fixed soon :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Awesome! Thank you for the alternate links! There are a LOT of parts in that section with the bolts, washers, etc etc. I'm sure I'll need to make multiple orders "oh crap, I need one of these....and one of those...and another one of these..."

THe bolt is a Torx security boilt, and requires a Torx security bit. Try Sears or most any parts store. Just look for the hole in the center of the bit.
Is the T50 size the only one used on the -09? If not, I'll probably just buy the whole set, just in case.

If ordering the parts online, watch out for shipping charges, they can be rediculous. Also inquire about combining parts in one order to reduce shipping costs.
That's a good point! it's already going to be large and heavy (due to the subframe), so I'm sure the shipping will be high.

Does anyone know where I can get a downloadable copy of the nice parts diagrams with the individual part identifiers similar to what's on Yamaha Parts House?
 

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Sux to crash.

Your subframe is toast. Order a new one along with the tail light, body work and such.

I have a spare stock seat if you want it.

However, I recommend taking this opportunity to use a heat gun to straighten out the seat pan and then order a seat foam and cover kit from Seat Concepts and upgrading the seat.

Hope you heal up quick and you take this as a warning that your braking skills are not as good as they could be and your riding skills need a reminder that riding beyond your sightline is something to be reserved for the racetrack as that is the only place safe to assume what is around the next blind corner is OK to dive into it since a cornerworker is stationed at every blind corner on a race track to tell you if it is not safe.

Post up if you need any other parts as there are several folks with stock parts left over from modifications and such.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sux to crash.

Your subframe is toast. Order a new one along with the tail light, body work and such.

I have a spare stock seat if you want it.

However, I recommend taking this opportunity to use a heat gun to straighten out the seat pan and then order a seat foam and cover kit from Seat Concepts and upgrading the seat.

Hope you heal up quick and you take this as a warning that your braking skills are not as good as they could be and your riding skills need a reminder that riding beyond your sightline is something to be reserved for the racetrack as that is the only place safe to assume what is around the next blind corner is OK to dive into it since a cornerworker is stationed at every blind corner on a race track to tell you if it is not safe.

Post up if you need any other parts as there are several folks with stock parts left over from modifications and such.
Thanks for the offer for the seat! I'm going to get all the busted pieces off the bike this weekend and see what I need to order. I'll keep your offer in mind. Hopefully I won't need a new seat (although if I do, I'm tempted to upgrade to a nice touring seat; after 7 hours of riding one-way I can confidently say the stock seat is terrible).

This wipe out was a huge warning and a big reminder that I should be more careful. It definitely could have been worse, no doubt. I, and the bike, sustained minimal damage given the situation and the factors involved; it could have went multiple different ways, all of which ending very very badly. I got lucky.

I forgot to post the pictures of the rest of the bike last night (posting today from work). I'll get them up today when I get home. I don't think I'll need any other stock parts aside from the bodywork.
I certainly appreciate the help from everyone here. I hope current and future readers of this thread will be reminded that this crap happens, and when it does, they can reach out to the community for help!
 

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I am glad that your are ok. You might also want to consider replacing your rear brake pads with some crappy organic ones that don't work as well, and also adjust your brake pedal so you have to push it further down to get them to grab. There are other ways to modify the rear brake to make it more difficult to lock up in a panic situation (grind down sides of pads so there is less surface area, smaller banjo opening, air in brake line, etc). You can train yourself to not lock the rear brake on instinct however this will take a long time since it is part of your instincts.

Anyway, I hope you can fix your bike soon.
 
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