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Hello, I have been looking for an ign key re-location bracket but can't seem to find one.
Does anyone have a solution for where and how to relocate the switch?
 

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Subscribing to see what others have done.
I've gotten used to how awkward the stock key location is on the FZ09, but it would be more convenient if it weren't so buried.
 

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I have no bike here to be able to demonstrate my idea, but it should be possible/ easy enough to fabricate a suitable U-shaped piece metal to attach to the 'handle' end of the key which would extend its length and so give an easier-to-reach-and-turn key. If the 'handle-extender' is made long enough long enough it could even be possible to swivel the business end of the key into the new 'handle-extender' for easy folding it up and carrying it in a pocket.

For this to work, A must be longer than B, which it isn't in my hasty sketch below!

And on further reflection., the 'handle extender'' does not really need to be a U-shaped piece at all - it could be a flat piece of metal strap with a hole in one end to take the handle end of the key via a screw, washer(s), and Nyloc nut. But it would have to be stiff enough not to twist when the key is being turned in the lock - a bit of an old bean can wouldn't do!

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Really ? I'm not getting this one at all.

Really?? This is what post # 2 says. 'I've gotten used to how awkward the stock key location is on the FZ09, but it would be more convenient if it weren't so buried'

Still not getting it? Back to school then...
 

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Really?? This is what post # 2 says. 'I've gotten used to how awkward the stock key location is on the FZ09, but it would be more convenient if it weren't so buried'

Still not getting it? Back to school then...
No, because I out it in there once a ride, it takes 0.01s longer than if it were anywhere else.
Of all the possible mods on bikes, this one I can't comprehend. I do get it's in a crap position, for sure, but other than that it barely registered
 

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Most of the time I leave the key in place. In the garage or at work. Just have to turn it to on.
 

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I've been looking at RFID keyless ignition setups. You loose the steering lock but I barely ever use that anyway

I'd look long and hard at that option if I were you, J Wright, depending on what sort or style of set-up it is. BMW websites report plenty of riders left stranded when their keyless rides become rideless keys (which have malfunctioned). It seems it's often largely down to the battery...
 

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I was looking at these RFID keys too.
1. Consider that you still need to carry a key, just not insert/remove it every time. (You need to be able to remove the seat for access to battery and fuses)
2. If I were installing it myself I'd hide a toggle switch under the seat someplace to bypass the RFID system in case of 'fob' failure.
3. A lower budget option is one of the many 'remote control' units sold for fog lights, alarm systems, and whatever. It wouldn't be 'automatic' when you approach the bike, but you'd push a button on a fob in your pocket to turn the bike on. This has the added advantage of being able to actually control the on/off state, with the rfid you can't do that - whenever you're close the bike is on.
 
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I don't mind having the key but after I do the gauge relocation and windshield the stock placement will be almost impossible to get to
I've moved my "dash" around a couple times, I finally got it where I want everything. Yeah, at one point the key was pretty hard to get to, it's not bad now. The cool thing about the way I have mine now is I can put my gloves in the space behind the windscreen so I don't have to carry them around. It will hold a small water bottle too if I don't want to fill my Camelbak but need a drink.

I picked the Garmin GPS because I use the bike for exploring mostly, and the Garmin interfaces with my Samsung S20 phone perfectly. When I get a phone call, my Cardo headset rings and the Garmin shows who's calling on it's screen. When I get a text it's the same, tone in the headset and message displayed on the Garmin so I can read it without pulling out my phone.

The other thing I did on this last "revision" was I lowered/tipped back the top of edge of my Givi windscreen a bunch. I found at it's stock location it blasted the air right at my helmet. Tilting it back made it so the wind hits my chest and is much quieter/smoother.

What are you planning on doing with your "relocation"?

Pics...

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I'm doing a custom windshield setup. Will have gauge centered and tight to the bars. Windshield will be almost touching gauge. Will have to see how it fits when I get all the parts
 

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2020 MT-09
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This must be the one thing Harley did correctly as I never had an issue with their transponders and the bike starting. As the battery would start to die you could touch the "on/off" switch as you turned it and would disengage the start interrupter. Much like a push to start car. I'd certainly run a bypass just because Murphy's law is no joke. Me personally I'd put the bypass under the seat. I'd be carrying a key regardless so why not secure it there.
 

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Another ideal. Go keyless and wire the pass switch on the front of the clutch side switches as a dead man switch. So you would have to hold the pass light switch while hitting the starter button. Thoughts? Still need key for gas and seat removale
 

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Another ideal. Go keyless and wire the pass switch on the front of the clutch side switches as a dead man switch. So you would have to hold the pass light switch while hitting the starter button. Thoughts? Still need key for gas and seat removale
Plus you'd need some way to 'shut off' the bike so that the whole system wasn't energized all the time. At least on the XSR the headlight doesn't shut off until the key is turned off. Just preventing the starter button from working isn't quite enough.
 
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