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How to remove bar-end weights to install heated grips

28K views 21 replies 17 participants last post by  Adjuster 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Its getting chilly in NYC and I received my Oxford touring heated grips from Twisted Throttle last week. I was trying to install them this weekend but none of the hex screwdrivers seen to work to remove the bar-end weights. The one with the bike is useless- works only for some of the underseat screws. Any of you guys know what tool/# screw head I would need to open the bar end weights so that I can slip off the grips and start my install?

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
I used a standard allen key to fill the big hole... Initially i thought that little hole inside was a torx wrench but that little star pattern hole inside is nothing, just use sae allen key on big hole and put some torque behind it and it will pop.
 
#12 ·
A lot of people do not know how to use tools and I have been teaching this for 25-30 years.

Proper maintenance begins with using proper tools for the job.

Ball end allen wrenches are to be avoided except in situations where no other choice works because ball end allen wrenches cannot handle high torque situations without deforming (stripping) the bolt head.

The bar ends are secured with blue locktite from the factory and require quite a bit of torque to get loose.

An 8mm allen socket engages much more surface area inside the 8mm socket head than a ball type allen can.

Improper use of tools just destroys fasteners for no good reason and causes increased wear and tear, maintenance and cost.

I used to bitch and complain about cheap crap screws on my bikes back in the early 80s, until someone introduced me to a good screwdriver from snap-on that properly fit the screws and then magically, the screw heads stopped stripping out. All #2 phillips screw drivers are not equal.

Learned a similar lesson why 6 point sockets are far superior to 12 point in almost every application and don't damage the nuts and bolts nearly as easily are 12 point sockets do.

The new tools being pushed these days with the rounded nipples inside are 2-3x as bad on nuts and bolts as 12 point sockets.

Treat your motorcycle with care and use the correct tools for the job.
 
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#15 ·
The bar end threads are normal, so counter clockwise to remove. Maybe one side got a bit more Loctite etc.

Regards ball end Allen keys, they are meant for when you don't have a straight shot at the bolt. I use them that way, not for high torque and haven't had a problem. For high torque it's nice to have the Allen sockets you can use on your ratchet etc, I also use them with a T handle. Have had 3/8 inch drive metric Allen sockets for a long time and just added 1/4 drive.
 
#17 · (Edited)
This thread has bothered me for a while. :confused:

Need to replace my bar ends. Incase anyone else is confused... There IS a smaller 4mm hex bolt head inside. On the bar end itself (bigger hole) is the 8mm hex.

Haven't started the work yet, don't know what the smaller one is for. A lock nut? Doesn't seem to matter.
 
#22 ·
The trick is to NOT remove the bar end weights when you do heated grips.

Buy a cheap-o ATV/Snowmobile heated tape kit from China. (The heater pads are the same, while the ones for "motorcycles" have a lower power on for the throttle, since your throttle insulates from the bar, while the clutch side is metal to metal, and needs more heat to just stay/keep up with the throttle side... it's never right, and you will get one hot hand, and one cold one, depending on the kit, if your running steel bars or aluminum etc.)

So, after doing this MANY times on KTM and other ADV type bikes, here is the easy, and best way to heated grip bliss.

Cheap is best. Trust me, they all wear out, and the cheaper ones last as long as the 40.00 or 60.00 ones. Spend 5.00 from China, and it's going to last as long. Sucks, but it's true.

You are going to need a set of "Grip Doggies" or slip covers the guys who ride long/touring bikes use, that slip OVER the stock grips. (They are a foam tube, about 15 to 20.00 lately, but they used to be less than 10.00 for a pair.)

These just slip on over stock grips, and give you a nice surface to grip, reduce vibes, and are slightly larger, so you actually get a more comfortable grip in my view.

So, here's the rub. You need either a nice fresh roll of good, 3M electrical tape, or the cheap China heater kits come with a section of shrink tube that solves the problem even better with a hair dryer/heat gun.

You will need a drill to route the wires through the inside rubber grip "lip"

I like to run my wires out of sight. Allow for the throttle side to twist when you are planning and routing your wires. I route my wires along the underside of the bars, and leave a few inches on the throttle side loose to twist/move.

Clean the grips, and dry them. (Use alcohol, it's funny how dirty they get with hand oil/gas etc.) Anything on there makes the adheasive NOT stick. You want the stock rubber grips as clean as possible.

Position the heater pads so the "Gap" is away from your hand/palm/finger areas. This area/gap will not be heated, but think about it, your hand does not wrap all the way around the grips anyway.

So, peel off the backing on the heater pads after you figure out where you want them, have drilled holes to route the wires cleanly past the stock rubber grip inside edge, and then fish the wire through the hole etc. (Then pull the backing and place the pad.)

Either wrap with the tape, and stretch it slightly, sticking the pad to the rubber grip firmly, or use the heat shrink tube, and it will clamp the heater pad in place.

Now wipe it down with window soap/windex, and in one nice smooth move, slip the foam cover on OVER it all.

Done and done with the grips now. (And you never removed the bar ends, or stock grips/throttle etc.)

Hook up your wires/switch and try out the low setting. It's very likely all you will ever need, unless you are riding across the artic, and then the hot setting will be modulated by bike speed, and how much air you allow between the grips and your gloves.

I've tried Oxford heated grips, Oxford pads, some other brand pads, and this setup is the best bar none. The Oxford heated grips with the fancy dial were nearly useless. Never heated up to the point where they did any good. Neat-o dial controller, but it did not work since you could not feel the heat on high, let alone on any of the lower settings. However, this setup on high, will roast your hands, so don't just flip them on when you are warming up the bike, and then grab on with bare hands. It can be painful.

One last thing, wire up your heated stuff to a 30 amp relay, and the relay to your ignition, so when the bike's off, your stuff is OFF. Too many roaming fools out there flip switches on your bike as they walk by, and I've had heated grips kill a battery after a joker flipped them on while nobody was on the bike. (Or this old fool forgot to turn them off...)

:) Enjoy the heat.
 
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