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That's because the cross head screws on Japanese vehicles are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) pattern and not Phillips.
Phillips is pretty close but not identical.
JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) | Screwdrivers | Hand Tools | VESSEL TOOLS

As for the "smaller hex" in the stock weights:The weights are one piece steel items.The apparent smaller hex is the result of metal being pushed into the base of the hole when an 8mm hex swage was forced into the weight to form the 8mm socket.
Agree. I tried every allen wrench I have and every one my friends have and none fit the smaller hole properly and the smaller hole certainly doesn't fit a wrench big enough to break the bar end weight loose. I was so focused on the small hex hole that the larger one went unnoticed, even by my friends. Once noticed, the larger hex hole made quick work of getting the weight off.
 
The trick is to NOT remove the bar end weights when you do heated grips.

Buy a cheap-o ATV/Snowmobile heated tape kit from China. (The heater pads are the same, while the ones for "motorcycles" have a lower power on for the throttle, since your throttle insulates from the bar, while the clutch side is metal to metal, and needs more heat to just stay/keep up with the throttle side... it's never right, and you will get one hot hand, and one cold one, depending on the kit, if your running steel bars or aluminum etc.)

So, after doing this MANY times on KTM and other ADV type bikes, here is the easy, and best way to heated grip bliss.

Cheap is best. Trust me, they all wear out, and the cheaper ones last as long as the 40.00 or 60.00 ones. Spend 5.00 from China, and it's going to last as long. Sucks, but it's true.

You are going to need a set of "Grip Doggies" or slip covers the guys who ride long/touring bikes use, that slip OVER the stock grips. (They are a foam tube, about 15 to 20.00 lately, but they used to be less than 10.00 for a pair.)

These just slip on over stock grips, and give you a nice surface to grip, reduce vibes, and are slightly larger, so you actually get a more comfortable grip in my view.

So, here's the rub. You need either a nice fresh roll of good, 3M electrical tape, or the cheap China heater kits come with a section of shrink tube that solves the problem even better with a hair dryer/heat gun.

You will need a drill to route the wires through the inside rubber grip "lip"

I like to run my wires out of sight. Allow for the throttle side to twist when you are planning and routing your wires. I route my wires along the underside of the bars, and leave a few inches on the throttle side loose to twist/move.

Clean the grips, and dry them. (Use alcohol, it's funny how dirty they get with hand oil/gas etc.) Anything on there makes the adheasive NOT stick. You want the stock rubber grips as clean as possible.

Position the heater pads so the "Gap" is away from your hand/palm/finger areas. This area/gap will not be heated, but think about it, your hand does not wrap all the way around the grips anyway.

So, peel off the backing on the heater pads after you figure out where you want them, have drilled holes to route the wires cleanly past the stock rubber grip inside edge, and then fish the wire through the hole etc. (Then pull the backing and place the pad.)

Either wrap with the tape, and stretch it slightly, sticking the pad to the rubber grip firmly, or use the heat shrink tube, and it will clamp the heater pad in place.

Now wipe it down with window soap/windex, and in one nice smooth move, slip the foam cover on OVER it all.

Done and done with the grips now. (And you never removed the bar ends, or stock grips/throttle etc.)

Hook up your wires/switch and try out the low setting. It's very likely all you will ever need, unless you are riding across the artic, and then the hot setting will be modulated by bike speed, and how much air you allow between the grips and your gloves.

I've tried Oxford heated grips, Oxford pads, some other brand pads, and this setup is the best bar none. The Oxford heated grips with the fancy dial were nearly useless. Never heated up to the point where they did any good. Neat-o dial controller, but it did not work since you could not feel the heat on high, let alone on any of the lower settings. However, this setup on high, will roast your hands, so don't just flip them on when you are warming up the bike, and then grab on with bare hands. It can be painful.

One last thing, wire up your heated stuff to a 30 amp relay, and the relay to your ignition, so when the bike's off, your stuff is OFF. Too many roaming fools out there flip switches on your bike as they walk by, and I've had heated grips kill a battery after a joker flipped them on while nobody was on the bike. (Or this old fool forgot to turn them off...)

:) Enjoy the heat.
 
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