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I dont know of any videos. It really isnt hard. Just take your time.

Only extra information i can give you is the extra washer with a whole drilled in it to hold the little pin in place. That was a great extra little step.

Its in this thread somewhere.
 

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Hi All,

New to the site as I just got my Mt09. Changed the tensioner at 3800 miles and been fiddling with it, not sure what sounds right or wrong. Checked the tension again whilst turning the enginine and the chain goes from tight to loose between each each guide, are you supposed to have consistant tension all the way around?

Also just a general sound question is the top end just noisy?

Cheers in advance

Alex
 

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I'm probably the last guy to install a new APE CCT, but thought I'd share my experiences just the same.

-The most useful information available right now is this thread. I did search for videos and installs on other bikes, but those didn't help me nearly as much.

-Use multiple layers of painters tape to avoid frame scratches, especially the section right above the CCT. I made a nick in my frame because my Allen wrench slipped and went right through 2 layers of tape. After I did that, I put painters tape over some duct tape just to be sure.

-Speaking of Allen wrenches, do yourself a favor and order a set of 'Stubby' wrenches on Amazon. It makes for a much easier project. I wouldn't try this again without that.

-While you're at it, I suggest you get your hands on an 11/16 offset box end wrench to ease the adjustment.

-I did Marthy's first step and turned the engine with a 19 socket and lined up the engine at the tiny marker. If you don't have eagle eyes, you might want to enlist the help of someone who does. It's really small and I had problems seeing it. Once it was lined up, I used a magnifying glass so I could get a good look at it. Someone can chime in here because I'm not certain about my next statement....At this position, I think there is the max amount of tension on the chain. I say this because even before I stuffed a socket wrapped in a shop rag in between the chain guard and the engine case, there was barely any slack. It hardly moved at all. Maybe having it in this position will prevents the chain from jumping a gear?

Here is my tip. Put a dot of white paint on the top of the adjuster so you have a reference point when you're rotating it.
 

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I'm probably the last guy to install a new APE CCT, but thought I'd share my experiences just the same.

-The most useful information available right now is this thread. I did search for videos and installs on other bikes, but those didn't help me nearly as much.

-Use multiple layers of painters tape to avoid frame scratches, especially the section right above the CCT. I made a nick in my frame because my Allen wrench slipped and went right through 2 layers of tape. After I did that, I put painters tape over some duct tape just to be sure.

-Speaking of Allen wrenches, do yourself a favor and order a set of 'Stubby' wrenches on Amazon. It makes for a much easier project. I wouldn't try this again without that.

-While you're at it, I suggest you get your hands on an 11/16 offset box end wrench to ease the adjustment.

-I did Marthy's first step and turned the engine with a 19 socket and lined up the engine at the tiny marker. If you don't have eagle eyes, you might want to enlist the help of someone who does. It's really small and I had problems seeing it. Once it was lined up, I used a magnifying glass so I could get a good look at it. Someone can chime in here because I'm not certain about my next statement....At this position, I think there is the max amount of tension on the chain. I say this because even before I stuffed a socket wrapped in a shop rag in between the chain guard and the engine case, there was barely any slack. It hardly moved at all. Maybe having it in this position will prevents the chain from jumping a gear?

Here is my tip. Put a dot of white paint on the top of the adjuster so you have a reference point when you're rotating it.
I think I got involved with this thread around page 3, and I still read the new posts every time this thread gets bumped. Pretty awesome to see the biggest issue with these bikes get so much attention and the gratitude for the help along the way. Kudos to marthy and everyone else for pitching in.

Love this forum.
 

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Hello to everyone. Bought a 2015 FZ-09 a couple of months ago with only 4400 miles on the clock and joined this forum soon afterward. Lots of great stuff on here! Anyway, there was an open recall for the cam chain tensioner and I thought I could hear a little bit of a rattle coming from the top end, so I took it in for new cct. Quiet for about a week, then the rattle returned so I bought the APE manual cct. When I removed the Yamaha tensioner, I noticed it had an o-ring at the inner end of the housing which the APE replacement did not have. Now I've been an auto mechanic a long time (I'm 62 yrs. old by the way) and I'm thinking there is going to be a loss of oil pressure as there is nothing to seal off the oil passage to the cct. I contacted APE and their reply was "We have most of these tensioners designed so that the tensioner body blocks off the hole enough that there isn't a noticeable oil pressure loss." Their tensioner body is smaller in diameter then the oem one so I find it hard to believe what they say. Even their web site has a warning about the possible need to block off the oil passage when using their cct! I was very uncomfortable with leaving that passage open as it is fed by the same supply channel that lubricates the top end! So I found a steel pin that was larger in diameter than the oil passage, tapered one end of it down using my bench grinder and cut the other end off so that a little bit of it was exposed after wedging it into the oil passage. That way, the body of the new tensioner would hold it in place. Didn't want to epoxy the pin into place in case something went wrong and had to reinstall the old cct. Oh-and as far as those damn allen headed bolts go, I used a couple of 6mm cap screws with 10mm heads instead. A lot easier and faster to get a 10mm flex socket on an extension on them when installing the cct. And I adjusted the tension on the chain leaving it slightly loose initially, then started the engine up, waited until it warmed up a bit and slowly loosened up the adjustment until it began to rattle and tightened it up until the noise went away. Nice and quiet on the test ride. Just wanted to share this with you guys.
 

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I just installed the psr cct, oem finally started making noise, went in without a glitch works perfectly. Threads are a little tight, oil is all it needed. Didn't put engine at tdc, but opened the crank case just to be sure and watch to see how the chain reacted, taking out the oem cct, the chain slacked a little, but I can't see how it would ever be enough to allow a tooth to skip. Regardless I put a socket on the far right guide for good measure. Case cover is easy to take off and on. Just be really easy with those bolts, very little torque is needed. Was able to reuse case cover gasket. Gasket on cct cracked upon removal, one is supplied with the psr cct. Part # 07-02005-29. 14' fz09 18k miles.

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
 

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I've changed my tensioner without open the side cover and fix the chain saddle: simply removed the OEM one and installed the new one. Regular setup. Noise reduced....and all seems ok. Do you think i'm so lucky guy? How can verify a chain jump without opening engine's covers?? less power? strange noises?..something else? Many thanks
 

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Welcome to the forum!
You must like living on the edge or you're just lazy but to answer your question-----if the engine starts, runs as good as it did before and it's not making a lot of noise you're good.
 

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I'd eard various "clonky noises: but i'd covered them with many invocations of saints names!!! :-D so......maybe one ot them shoud be the one's of the chain!!! :) ..... [Serious mode ON].

I removed the OEM CCT without adopting any chain lock or alignment solution. It went well obviously. It is clear that reading all the pages of the thread, I have risen a thousand fears and doubts. The bike, however, is fine, the power I think is the same and the sensations (apart from the noise) are the usual ones. However, I believe that the loss of power perceivable in case of cam misalignment, it would be very obvious, without counting noise, irregularity to a minimum, tendency to turn off etc. etc. So, I think I was lucky. Without shouting too much ... :-D
 
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