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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

First time putting on a rivet style chain, I've always used the clip type master links on my dirt bikes. Went with the RK 525 XW and some vortex sprockets.

Well I ended up breaking the first two master links lol (cracked rivet on the first and over pressed on the second). Third I think is a charm, but would like to someone here to reassure me they look good and flared enough.

Pics:
https://imgur.com/NErtdKs
https://imgur.com/a/zkAKpZS
 

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If you really want to make sure that its on tight enough get out a caliper measure the new chain thickness is several places and you will find that 99.9% they all measure the same then measure yours to see if you are with-in that spec... but in the pic it does LOOK good ...just need to measure to be sure !!
 

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yup get calipers and check for sure! Check the press on "width" against other links to make sure you're pretty dang close. And similarly for the flares. Should have measured before and after. Unsure if RK has a spec for the flare width, but i know DID does. Might be able to use their number to help you feel a bit better if not.

Does look good to me too though :).
 

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They honestly look a bit under pressed....measure them for sure , but compared to what Im used to seeing, I do not think they are pressed enough

here is one I did on a DID chain for example....and when checked with a caliper, these are right in spec





 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
They honestly look a bit under pressed....measure them for sure , but compared to what I'm used to seeing, I do not think they are pressed enough

here is one I did on a DID chain for example....and when checked with a caliper, these are right in spec


Yeah while measuring the pin before riveting my micrometer decided to die :( so I had to do it all by feel/look. I did not want to go too much as this is what cracked my first rivet. RK specifies .0152 - .5mm and never over .7mm, and I've read so far just a little flare should do the trick.

Also, are you guys cleaning off the new chain grease and lubing prior to first ride?
 

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Those flares look perfect to me.
They only need to be expanded a small amount.
I just measured my rivets and they are .219".
I believe the pin diameter is about .208" and my DID has been on the bike for over 12K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those flares look perfect to me.
They only need to be expanded a small amount.
I just measured my rivets and they are .219".
I believe the pin diameter is about .208" and my DID has been on the bike for over 12K miles.
Thanks!

Yeah I don't want to risk having to order a forth master link anyways from tinkering more lol. Looking at the images RK has linked below(took me forever to find this) it looks close enough:
FeatureSpec

The "bad example" is what happened to my first master link, the second time I pressed the plate on too much and it binded.

Took it for a ride today around the parking lot, new chain/sprockets really smooth out the feel.
 

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So ... How reliable are modern day clip rivets when matched up to their respective same chain ? Not talking about on a 160+ Hp bike.
 

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Thanks!

Yeah I don't want to risk having to order a forth master link anyways from tinkering more lol. Looking at the images RK has linked below(took me forever to find this) it looks close enough:
FeatureSpec

The "bad example" is what happened to my first master link, the second time I pressed the plate on too much and it binded.

Took it for a ride today around the parking lot, new chain/sprockets really smooth out the feel.
Well the thing with overpressing too is that not only can it bind the link, but it can also crush the o-ring on that link as well. Which will ruin the link in relatively short order if you live in a humid climate or ride through any sort of wet.

The amount of lateral strain that the chain is exposed to is relatively minimal under normal conditions, so it's pretty unlikely to come off with any sort of deformation of the pin heads, even a slightly inadequate riveting job. This current chain I have I replaced two years ago with a cheap chinese chain riveter, the riveting head of which was softer than the pin material on the link...basically it barely flared them, and I had no concerns flogging it on an 8 hour ride up through the mountains to the rally that year(where a kind fellow forum member brought his quality for me so i could finish the riveting job properly). I brought my calipers and actually measured when I got there before I riveted it proper and there was no change in the link thickness.

I just went to my garage and took a picture of that link 8,000 miles later. Your link will hold my friend.

 

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So ... How reliable are modern day clip rivets when matched up to their respective same chain ? Not talking about on a 160+ Hp bike.
I have used clip links for 25 years with but one issue. My last chain on the Bandit was a river type only because at the time the chain manufacturer had stopped offering the clip style. If I ever install a new chain ever again, it will use.a.clip type.
 

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Cool, thanks. I ask because I geared my 800 Tiger up at both ends, going from 16T > 17t cs and 50t > 47t drive sprockets. I only run the the 17/47 combo for long trips. With the 16/47 combo I know I can stand to lose an extra link and have room to spare for the 17/47 combo (won't be reusing the 50t drive). I have a RK GXW OEM chain and bought a matching RK GXW clip link. Have yet to grind off/pop out the link, but soon ...
 

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I have used clip links for 25 years with but one issue. My last chain on the Bandit was a river type only because at the time the chain manufacturer had stopped offering the clip style. If I ever install a new chain ever again, it will use.a.clip type.
You ever bother with RTV or safety wire?
 
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