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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so it's made out of wood and it isn't a permanent fixture on the bike. A steel one would be tricky to do and beyond the tools I have available.
I'm not showing all the dimensions as this is a custom hand fit arrangement, but it is something a regular handyperson can do. (see I was politically correct there - it won't happen again)
So if you are stuck in by snow this Xmas, you can make your own.























 

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Nice build! Looks pretty slick!
 

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It does look like a nice concept. I bet someone out there could copy the idea and fab one out of steel or aluminum. Nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One of the interesting things I discovered is that with the front wheel up, the bars do not fall easily to the sides - which is the classic test for steering head bearings. The clutch cable provides a lot of turning resistance (left side) and the wire harness almost as much on the right side. I wanted to see if the head bearings where tight or loose, but it is very hard to tell.

Apologies for any bad grammar in the text - I read it several times and still didn't spot some of the errors.

Wood is a very handy material to easily work with and it has the added advantage of not scratching things as easily as metals will. Now all I have to do is keep the termites away.
 
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Rich,
great idea especially to create a Engine Support plate out of ply and 2x4ths.
Are you able to update your post with the measurements of your plate, and the exact location of the 2x4ths?

That would gives us especially myself a quick guide to create and use your plate design with 3 mounting points with my High Position Motorcycle Lift from HFT (oohh brother now I'm getting flamed lol).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can probably put some heights on the 2x4's, but I really did a "customized fit" for each piece. I'll be out there tomorrow, so I can take a few measurements.

The left hand front piece is the easiest. I put the 2x4 under the bolts I wanted to support then whacked it on the bottom with a mini sledge hammer to mark the bolts position in the end of the 2x4.
Then because the bolts slope down I drilled a recess in the top for the front bolts with a 3/8 drill, then chiseled out the hole a bit to better accommodate the bolt. It turned out that allowing the bolt head to drop into the hole that the back bolt was now resting on the end of the 2x4 with it roughly vertical.

The right side 2x4 was done in a similar way except there has to be lots of cutouts to avoid the various bosses on the engine. I found some of the bosses with the sledge hammer method - especially that cutout on the inside. I did have to step the ends of the 2x4 to get the plywood plate level. In the end, I positioned all the pieces on the plywood base and scribed around each 2X4 to determine where each needed to go, then glued them in place. Turned it over an hour later and put long deck screws into the base to hold it all together.

I've used it once already to do a fork oil change, tomorrow I'll be using it to put the new Penske/Stolten rear shock in.
I won't be using it for oil changes or carb balancing, the rear paddock stand will be used for that.
 

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RichbinAZ, great work. I will use the engine support plate idea and sit it on top of my motorcycle jack I got from Harbor Freight years ago. I did something like that when I had to lift my Super Magna. You pictures give me points where the weight can be distributed and should be pretty solid once up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One of those cycle lifts should work great under the support plate (I just don't have one). The CG is right around the crankshaft, perhaps just slightly aft.

The left support is 7 inches high, the right support has 2 heights, the back is 6 13/16" and the front is 6 5/8".
 
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