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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
looks like i’ve sprung a leak from somewhere in my cooling system, oil still looks fine through my sight glass. Highest spot i can see dripping is about halfway down my radiator on the left side. I went on a longer ride earlier today (100 miles or so) and smelled a slight sweet smell whenever i got home but didn’t think too much of it. It was windy and my fan never even came on as i was moving pretty good the whole time. Plus i didn’t see much if any antifreeze dried onto it. However after returning from a ride to the gas station around the corner tonight i noticed the smell again and it was dripping off the bike in certain areas, plus had dried on from just the short ride (less than 1/2 mile) My radiator hoses feel empty now, and i haven’t checked the level of my rad because i can’t get to the cap behind the shroud because all my tools aren’t with me. The reservoir is still full tho. I’ve got a radiator guard also, so i’m surprised this happened. With the spray pattern do you think it could be coming from somewhere besides the hole i think i’m seeing in the third photo, where the fins are darker because they’re wet and because it’s the highest spot that looks wet i assume that’s where the leak is from but i’m not sure. Any tips or stuff i should look out for before i repair? Im Going to fill radiator and run till hot, then see if i can find the leak and make sure fan comes on. Maybe i’ll be lucky and it’s just a loose clamp or something somewhere
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2021 MT-09, 2017 STI
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as long as your temp gauge doesn't go crazy high I don't see why not? The worst it can do is make a bit of a coolant mess that needs to be washed off. I wouldn't chance it if you expect to see traffic of any sort on the way though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
as long as your temp gauge doesn't go crazy high I don't see why not? The worst it can do is make a bit of a coolant mess that needs to be washed off. I wouldn't chance it if you expect to see traffic of any sort on the way though
Thanks, i’ll probably just send it then and limp as quick as possible to the shop, shouldn’t be too bad - it’s been pretty nice and windy here last few days so i guess we’ll see haha
 

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Radiator guards can hold debris behind them that can cause leaks if you don't clean them out every so often. Ask me how I know, lol

It's easy peasy to change a radiator, you can do it yourself if you don't want to take it to a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Radiator guards can hold debris behind them that can cause leaks if you don't clean them out every so often. Ask me how I know, lol

It's easy peasy to change a radiator, you can do it yourself if you don't want to take it to a shop.
I work at a local MC dealer here in South Texas, so I’m confident i can do it - really just bummed about the down time. Also I figured i should go back with an OEM one, but there are some US made Aluminum ones on Ebay that seem like they’d get the job done. Anybody know of any good/better radiator options compared to OEM?
 

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If you have access to one of these, it might make the job a bit easier. (Won't have to worry about burning yourself on a hot engine.)
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I've got an old Craftsman tester that works well. Just need to get one that has the correct radiator cap fitting.
 

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Corse black pepper can help seal a small hole. With a Dollar General every 1.36 miles, you always have a nearby supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would not recommend adding ANY stop-leak products to your cooling system unless you intend to fully disassembly and flush the cooling system when you replace the radiator.

Those should really only be used in emergency situations where you HAVE to keep going. You're voluntarily introducing contaminates to your system.
Yeah, Im here at the shop now, I'll get it unloaded sometime today and pull the radiator. I opted against riding it in, I did start it for a minute to load it and it ran fine but its like 60*F here so it didnt get hot.
 

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Glad it's an easy fix. If you become concerned about head gaskets, etc., cylinder leak-down testers are pretty cheap on Amazon and I suggest you go through the various tests any time you remove the spark plugs (they're such a B to get to, might as well listen to how things are going in the engine while you're there.
Surprising number of things can be listened to at various spots (use mechanics stethoscope with just a plastic tube rather than the rigid rod). Muffler (exhaust valves) , crankcase oil filler cap (rings), throttle bodies (intake valves), radiator (head gasket), other spark plug holes (head gasket), probably leaving some out.
 
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