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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I know some people arent happy with the headlight as for how much lights it puts out. I think the low beam is pretty good, but the highbeam totally sucks. There is NO light on the road in front of you once you turn it on. Well, last night I had to ride over Ortega Highway at night. So I had the low beam on and there were bunches of cars coming the other way. I didnt want to blind anyone, so I decided to try holding down the "pass" light while between cars. Well, this is a big difference, cause it leaves the low beam on while the high beam is on. It was excellent! Does anyone think that it is bad/dangerous to link the high and low beam? I would wire the power from the high beam switch to both bulbs, that way I still have a low beam.

Let me know what you guys think.
 

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I wouldn't do it on a continuous basis. It would probably generate too much heat.

Mike
 

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That's why I did the aux lights on my FZ6R. Hi beam or adequate but you loose close light. I had mine aim low and wide so I have extra light sideways. Not a bad thing to see what's going on ont he side of freeway when it's pitch dark. Like reindeer! LOL

HID retrofit seems to fix that too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hum, so I dont really agree about the draw. And here is my reasoning, but I might be wrong. This bike has 1 bulb. My 05 R1 had 4! When the high beams are on, all 4 beams are blasting away. So I really dont think there is a draw issue. Also, my 03 SV1000 has 2 bulbs, and when its on low beam, both are on, and on high, both are on. And I THINK that it runs both filaments when it is on high beam. Also, what would the heat damage? The bulb? Or the housing?
 

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Too much current draw on tge wiring to the headlight.

The low side wiring is only designed to handle 60 watts and both lights burn 115 watts. You will overheat the wiring very quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But if I wired the low beam to the output side of the highbeam switch, then both filaments would have their own circuit from switch to bulb, correct? It would not increase wattage. 55 watts comes into the switch, it does not amplify this power. 55 in and 55 out. I dont see how there could be any issue, except in the bulb and housing.
 

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Go ahead and try it but plan on replacing your wiring harness because you are cluless to how electrical circuits work.

I could explain it to you in techincal terms.

The short answer is if you do what you are thinking you will fry the wiring harness and lots of other parts because you are putting a 115 watt load on an 60 watt circuit. Twice the current/power causes fuses to blow. You are rewiring your entire headlight circuit to overheat.

It is basic electronics.
 

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But if I wired the low beam to the output side of the highbeam switch, then both filaments would have their own circuit from switch to bulb, correct? It would not increase wattage. 55 watts comes into the switch, it does not amplify this power. 55 in and 55 out. I dont see how there could be any issue, except in the bulb and housing.
I am definantly not an electrician, so I don't know. The flash switch burns them both at the same time and I know it is only intended to be used quickly and for a short time. Perhaps set up the flash lever to stay on for some more time and see if it heats up too much.
Maybe that will tell you if it will work before going into the rewiring?
 

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But if I wired the low beam to the output side of the highbeam switch, then both filaments would have their own circuit from switch to bulb, correct?
It would not increase wattage. 55 watts comes into the switch, it does not amplify this power. 55 in and 55 out.
you mean splitting the output from the highbeam side and running it to the low beam? you'd be pulling 115 watts through the part of the wiring before the split, which includes the headlight switch.

55 watts are not being pushed into the headlight filaments, the headlight filaments are pulling 55 + 60 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes Bobby, that's exactly what I mean. And yea, I understand now that it would be putting more strain up to that point.
 

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with an aftermarket headlight harness, you won't have to worry about drawing too much current through the bike's wiring.

i'm using this one to run a high wattage headlight bulb:

Motorcycle Headlight Relay Kits

you can then rig it to light up both filaments at once, but heat would still be an issue.
 

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It would be easy to add a relay and switch to power the high beam side of your light, just as you would if you were adding spot lights.

Pull your seat and take a voltage reading with the low beam on and the pass light switch pull on to ensure you have the voltage to power both lights.

As others have said heat could be a problem inside the headlight and about the only way to know is give it a go.
 

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If you could use an LED bulb you could run both at the same time. An LED with the same lumens as a 55 watt standard filament bulb would draw less than 10 watts...only one problem; it would burn out the bulb and probably the transformer very quickly but the wiring would last.
 

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wanted to revive this thread as i had a similar question - similar to blackku i noticed that the pass light is actually pretty great as a high beam but the actual high beam is shit.

What it sounds like is you guys are talking about wiring the low beam to be the passing light and this would cause too much current.

My question is - can you rewire the pass light to be the high beam and just disconnect the current high beam?
 

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wanted to revive this thread as i had a similar question - similar to blackku i noticed that the pass light is actually pretty great as a high beam but the actual high beam is shit.

What it sounds like is you guys are talking about wiring the low beam to be the passing light and this would cause too much current.

My question is - can you rewire the pass light to be the high beam and just disconnect the current high beam?
No - you're still drawing 115w of power and the wiring can't handle it for more than a few seconds before the extra heat will cause it to melt it's insulation and short out. The heat coming off of the bulbs is going to be too much for your headlight nacelle too...
 

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got it - balls. Thought that would be an easy fix - but also confirmed i shouldn't hold it down like i have been for when i'm riding haha
 

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I upgraded the wiring on my Kymco Xciting 500R, ventilated the housing behind the fairing, and replaced my 60/55 bulb with a 100/55. I had a voltmeter on my fairing because I knew I didn't have much to play with from my 330w alternator. I had replaced most of my bulbs with LED's to get more available power. It was great for a few weeks. Then it seemed a little dimmer when I was almost home one night. The housing and wires were fine but the lens had turned brown and started to melt.

Be safe. Add a fuse/circuit/relay/switch and auxiliary lights rather than trying to get more out of the stock headlight. The little black plastic Kuryakin voltmeters are cheap, easy to mount - and can save your bacon from a dead battery whenever you add lights or other accessories...
 

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I upgraded the wiring on my Kymco Xciting 500R, ventilated the housing behind the fairing, and replaced my 60/55 bulb with a 100/55. I had a voltmeter on my fairing because I knew I didn't have much to play with from my 330w alternator. I had replaced most of my bulbs with LED's to get more available power. It was great for a few weeks. Then it seemed a little dimmer when I was almost home one night. The housing and wires were fine but the lens had turned brown and started to melt.

Be safe. Add a fuse/circuit/relay/switch and auxiliary lights rather than trying to get more out of the stock headlight. The little black plastic Kuryakin voltmeters are cheap, easy to mount - and can save your bacon from a dead battery whenever you add lights or other accessories...
aux lights are in the cards at some point - i don't do much night riding so i haven't had much issue here vs. suspension (something i encounter every day). Seeing more bikes now with aux lights are it's amazing the difference in how quickly you notice (and some time even fixate) on them coming at you. Definitely like the extra safety of that.
 
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