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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the check engine light is on and code 5d_ _ 22; it might be Sd _ _ 22?

What does it mean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes, that's what it is, the temp sensor. I really hate to admit this but I was installing a USB port and pulled the right side fuze box panel off and couldn't find the connector to use... so I thought maybe it was on the left side and there is a connector there with 5V on the cable so... you get the picture, I disabled that connector and now I'll have to hardwire the sensor back into the circuit but now I cannot figure out the polarity... maybe it doesn't matter? I don't want to burn out the sensor just trying. I hate it when I do this....

Anyway, after all this I found the 12v connector on the right side and now the USB port is showing 5V on the red wire... my cell phone does not show that it is charging though????
 

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Maybe if you didn't try to do such things the bike would be OK
Why ???
When you ride a naked motorcycle forget about your phone and everything, its about taking time out for yourself
My 3cents sorry
Yeah I know about heated everything but when its too cold take your car...man I live in the north I know that;)
 

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it's all "OK" again... it was the temp sensor and it doesn't seem to care about polarity, it's a simple thermister that changes resistance with temperature... just took some time to recover.

On one level you are super correct; just ride the bike. When I was much younger and could ride much better/longer/faster/quicker and we didn't even have cell phones... plus I had to work all the time it seemed. Now, at this age, I could ride everyday if I wanted to...but it's getting more difficult and health issues are a factor so I rely on every gizmo available to help; heaters to keep me warm if needed; better seat to keep the pain down; better suspension to protect my back; GPS to keep me from getting lost; ATGATT; and a way to call for help if needed. If I get into trouble, there's no way I can walk out any distance. All that junk needs power and/or charged batteries to work. It's a form of insurance I guess and helps satiate the folks that really believe I'm too old to be doing this...

thanks for your help.
 
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it's all "OK" again... it was the temp sensor and it doesn't seem to care about polarity, it's a simple thermister that changes resistance with temperature... just took some time to recover.

On one level you are super correct; just ride the bike. When I was much younger and could ride much better/longer/faster/quicker and we didn't even have cell phones... plus I had to work all the time it seemed. Now, at this age, I could ride everyday if I wanted to...but it's getting more difficult and health issues are a factor so I rely on every gizmo available to help; heaters to keep me warm if needed; better seat to keep the pain down; better suspension to protect my back; GPS to keep me from getting lost; ATGATT; and a way to call for help if needed. If I get into trouble, there's no way I can walk out any distance. All that junk needs power and/or charged batteries to work. It's a form of insurance I guess and helps satiate the folks that really believe I'm too old to be doing this...

thanks for your help.
Good news: Apple will soon be releasing the Ipository for those who are susceptible to constiplation.

....I don't need it - Apple and Microsoft already give me the shits.
 

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Check engine light

Good news: Apple will soon be releasing the Ipository for those who are susceptible to constiplation.

....I don't need it - Apple and Microsoft already give me the shits.
My fz-09 has a check engine light on with a code 5d-- 20. Does anyone out there know what that code is?
 

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My fz-09 has a check engine light on with a code 5d-- 20. Does anyone out there know what that code is?
sd--20 is 'intake air pressure sensor 1 voltage and intake air pressure sensor 2 voltage differ greatly'.

what's the history of the bike, did you play around with any of the hoses or wiring by the throttle bodies?
 

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There's two fault code 20's listed-one is FAULT code 20; referencing the intake air pressure sensors' number one and two having greatly differing voltage--the other is a DIAGNOSTIC code 20 referencing the side stand switch. Without seeing/hearing how your bike is running, hard to say which it is. If it's the intake air pressure sensor, see the above post on possible fixes. Best of luck...

*edit* Bobby got there first...
 

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There's two fault code 20's listed-one is FAULT code 20; referencing the intake air pressure sensors' number one and two having greatly differing voltage--the other is a DIAGNOSTIC code 20 referencing the side stand switch. Without seeing/hearing how your bike is running, hard to say which it is. If it's the intake air pressure sensor, see the above post on possible fixes. Best of luck...
the bike only gives fault codes. the diagnostic code is the function you select when you put the bike into diagnostics mode to test the various sensors/actuators. i agree it's a little confusing at first.
 

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the bike only gives fault codes. the diagnostic code is the function you select when you put the bike into diagnostics mode to test the various sensors/actuators. i agree it's a little confusing at first.

Thanks Bobby-I see now what you mean-pretty obvious difference if I'd thought about it...
 

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yes, that's what it is, the temp sensor. I really hate to admit this but I was installing a USB port and pulled the right side fuze box panel off and couldn't find the connector to use... so I thought maybe it was on the left side and there is a connector there with 5V on the cable so... you get the picture, I disabled that connector and now I'll have to hardwire the sensor back into the circuit but now I cannot figure out the polarity... maybe it doesn't matter? I don't want to burn out the sensor just trying. I hate it when I do this....

Anyway, after all this I found the 12v connector on the right side and now the USB port is showing 5V on the red wire... my cell phone does not show that it is charging though????
Oh, so many things to talk about.... so lets jump in.
If you disassembled the connector, you should be able to reassemble or hardwire if necessary by color code on the wires, Yamaha is very consistent on their color codes.
- if you cant decipher colors, then- if its a two wire connector it doesn't matter which wire most of the time, and IAT sensors have no diodes to cause a problem with that, they are merely variable resistors. Short version, if its 2 wire it wont matter which wire.. IF its 3 wire, you gotta get it right. If the connector has more than 3 wires, you've done more than just an IAT, and get some help.

As far as charging your cell, stay the hell away from any wire with 5v on it. First, it wont run anything that requires 12v. Second, and more importantly, you WILL muck up your bike. 5V is only used for FI sensors on motorcycles (always!) which manipulate a simple 5v low amp signal with very small resistance changes for your FI system to use for running parameters. There are so many things that can wrong here.

As far as re-assembly, tread carefully. If you are unsure, take it to a place with a solid electric/ FI guy. Usually lead tech at a Yamaha Gold service dealer, but sometimes those guys have their own mom and pop shops. Good luck, feel free to fire back for more in depth info.
 
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