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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So on my last visit to the dyno I noticed that my front forks were real squishy.
We tried to adjust the preload, but noticed that the adjuster screw was backed out all the way. :confused:


When I tried to adjust it, the screw just spun and did not thread.


I have no idea how this happened!

Need advice ASAP.

I have a 800 mile trip 8/8/14 - 8/10/14 and a 1,500 mile trip 8/15/14 - 8/24/14 so this was not an issue I wanted to face right now. :(
 

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I haven't played with this at all but could it be reversed threads. Left tight in sted of right tight Just tossing it out there ��
 

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I haven't played with this at all but could it be reversed threads. Left tight in sted of right tight Just tossing it out there ��
No it is not a reverse thread, definitely something wrong, I'd speak to the dealer..
 

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correct me if I am wrong, but to adjust the preload, you need to put a wrench or socket onto the hex head that screw is in. the screw does damping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No it is not a reverse thread, definitely something wrong, I'd speak to the dealer..
I sent an e-mail out to them tonight.
I'll follow up with a call tomorrow.

correct me if I am wrong, but to adjust the preload, you need to put a wrench or socket onto the hex head that screw is in. the screw does damping.
Yeah, maybe I got my wording wrong.
Either way the screw is "screwed up".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My best guess is that the jam nut height was set incorrectly when the forks were apart. You'll need to disassemble and inspect the cap.
God, I wish I knew what that meant.
Are there any diagrams of what I need to take apart?

Thanks for your input, Nick.
 

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God, I wish I knew what that meant.
Are there any diagrams of what I need to take apart?

Thanks for your input, Nick.
The manual covers it in detail, and I don't have a great picture handy. However, see here:



The jam nuts aren't shown in this picture, but they thread onto the cartridge rod and seat against the fork cap (the cap threads onto the rod). The position of the cap (and hence, jam nut) determines the amount of adjustment available to you. My guess is the cap and jam nut were installed too high.

If you are doing the work, let me know and I'll walk you through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The manual covers it in detail, and I don't have a great picture handy. However, see here:



The jam nuts aren't shown in this picture, but they thread onto the cartridge rod and seat against the fork cap (the cap threads onto the rod). The position of the cap (and hence, jam nut) determines the amount of adjustment available to you. My guess is the cap and jam nut were installed too high.

If you are doing the work, let me know and I'll walk you through it.
Nick,

I sent you a frantic e-mail a minute ago. LOL

I personally did not do the work before (springs/oil replacement).
And I'm hoping I don't have to do any of the "fixing".

The reason I didn't touch the suspension personally was that I have almost no idea what I'm doing in that department and didn't want to fudge it up.
 

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correct me if I am wrong, but to adjust the preload, you need to put a wrench or socket onto the hex head that screw is in. the screw does damping.
The screw is rebound, and you don't have to put a wrench on the hex head.

There should be pressure on the screw and you should feel clicks when you turn it. It is boogered up. It must come out to be inspected.

The jam nut is the nut on top of the piston rod. When you screw the cap on to the piston rod, the jam nut should be 12mm down from the top of the piston threads when you screw the cap on.
 

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The screw is rebound, and you don't have to put a wrench on the hex head.

There should be pressure on the screw and you should feel clicks when you turn it. It is boogered up. It must come out to be inspected.

The jam nut is the nut on top of the piston rod. When you screw the cap on to the piston rod, the jam nut should be 12mm down from the top of the piston threads when you screw the cap on.
the rebound adjuster is not a clicker.
 
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