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That's not a feasible drill/tap project. Most bar ends are 5/8 ID and that's already too large to tap, and even if it wasn't, try putting that size drill on a handlebar and drilling a precise hole. Now, for the 5/8 ID bars, you may be able to tap it with just enough bite to hold the bar ends, but I doubt it... Perhaps cut a cutting serration on the bar end threads to make it self tapping, the 5/8 hole is perhaps .2mm smaller than the threaded bar end. It's probably an M18 thread or similar.
You can use this same method but it's way too much work just to put a big weight out at the ends that look stock.
Harsay; I should have been more specific. I want to keep the bar end inserts from the stock bars. Those steel inserts are then reused to mount the Throttlemeister bar ends back on the new bars. In order to do this, an M16 X 1.5 tap is required.
 

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I've just fitted a set of Renthal McGrath/short bend bars part no: 821-01. About 25mm lower than standard and about the same forward. They could be rotated lower and closer if you preferred. Lots of clearance for M/cyl, etc. I trimmed 20mm off each end so they're about 15mm wider than stock.
I had an engineer tap each end to use the stock weights. There's plenty of meat in the bars to take a M16 thread. Sitting in the garage they feel good, but there's rain clouds moving in so a test ride has to wait. With a bit of luck this'll fix the shoulder aches.
 

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Can anyone please tell me what Renthal or Pro Taper bars will work the same as stock bars. I like my stock bars but I want to put blue bars on my yellow bike is all. I've looked all over the forums and have found the stock dimensions but not completely trusting the sizing. I'm thinks no whatever I get is a medium or a high bar mount which I think the stockers are. Thank you all.
 

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Just did a ride around some of our back roads. The lower bars change the whole feel of the bike, steering inputs feel even more positive and I'm not feeling like a sail anymore. There's less arm stretching when you nail it too. No shoulder aches either. The bars still feel wide (same as the stock ones) but I guess I'll get used to that.
Second best thing I've done to the bike.
 

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rode the bike to work and the riding position is much more comfortable compared to stock and Tag bars set up. I did not cut the drag bar, it's slightly wider than the stock with the bar ends installed. just need to adjust the mirrors.
If i buy the same can i cut it 1/2 inch from every side or i will be face a problem? whats your opinion ? At the moment i have Rizoma MA 005 BUT i have the same feel like you i like to effort more the front part of the bike just i wondering if IT will help also in track i think that this is what i need...

Your opinion will help me a lot...for the right choise 20150914_121451_resized_1.jpg 20150914_121513_resized.jpg

it will be helpful if you can tell me wahts your high? I am 179 cm
 

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1/2" may be ok, but you will have to replace the clutch cable with that of an FJ-09. the stock routing with the drag bars will put an awful bend in the cable, so replacing them will allow for the cable routing to be place on the other side of the ignition switch routing it through the same bracket where the throttle cables and and such run below the triple clamp. I'll post some close up pics of the setup from my bike.
 

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1/2" may be ok, but you will have to replace the clutch cable with that of an FJ-09. the stock routing with the drag bars will put an awful bend in the cable, so replacing them will allow for the cable routing to be place on the other side of the ignition switch routing it through the same bracket where the throttle cables and and such run below the triple clamp. I'll post some close up pics of the setup from my bike.
1/2 inch from every side?

If i cut it the problem with the clutch cable is the same so if i want to do the mod i have to replace it a photo will be a good help how is the position of your body now?
I suppose you came 10-15 degree forward
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do you feel more comfort now in daily driving?
 

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even now i am looking the photos that you post and i can not understand the need for replacing clutch cable how ever you have already did this so i will order it tomorrow morning
 

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correction on the routing...I did not go through the bracket as the pictures show. however did remove the plastic housing for the turn signals and head light to route it around the ignition switch and the tie wrap is just holding it. clutch cable is the lower one shown in the last picture. the FJ cable is a must if you go with the drag bar.
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even now i am looking the photos that you post and i can not understand the need for replacing clutch cable how ever you have already did this so i will order it tomorrow morning
It's good to have that extra length for any position other than stock handlebars, to minimize tight bends, that's all. I also removed the cover over the headlight with the 4 screws to help with this, but that's only because the Pyramid screen allows me to cover up the garbage
 

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got a Buell clubman bar from the guy that bought my Buell, 40 bucks with the left handgrip:p so I'll do the swap of the bars and Buell Traction hand grips as well. and an FYI, for those looking for the clubmans...P/N: N0037.1ATCZT, they are black finished and best online price from newcastlehd.com is $113.52, new. you may be able to find one at a dealer and prices may vary as HD has been marking up Buell parts since the seven year contract to support Buell motorcycles ends next year.
 

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Tried the buell clubmans. A bit to far forward and low for the street.(for me) The woodcraft plate and 1" risers arrived last week. Without the taller bar mounts used with the rotary damper or the 10mm spacers I had clearance issues with the tank in the low position. Flipped to up they work. Great. With the Madstad ;Either of Madstads shields. Right now I'm running with the MRA touring which allows enough air over the top to support my torso but redirects air for comfort to over a ton. The woodcraft heavyweight bars sliders came today. They ain't that heavy comparied to the stock ones but they make a significant difference in vibration. When you order the plate I'D recommend getting them. Thanks Nick for working with Woodcraft to get this system developed.
 

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Jeffb, you should have flipped the bars upside down and rolled the bars back to your liking. I have pics of it done, but not on an fz or an 1125CR, on an XB9S from Al at ASB. He installed for his wife which he let me check out. The position was perfect.
 
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