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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know the OEM handlebar width, height, and pull-back? Looking to drop my hand placement an inch or so while pushing them forward forward a bit too. I don't want to run into any clearance problems so any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Glad you asked, I have them right here.
A: 29.5" = 749 mm
B: 3.5" = 89 mm
C: 2.5" = 64 mm
D: 7" = 178 mm
E: 4" = 102 mm
F: never bothered measuring

These are quick measurements and are also approximations, conversions are close.

Product, Part Number, A, B, C, D, E, F, Colors
STREET FIGHTER, 814-01 , 769, 96, 64, 120, 72, 195, TITANIUM, BLACK
STREET LOW, 828-02, 765, 80, 50, 122, 51, 190, BLACK





I hope this helps. I mounted the Street Fighter FATBAR, which are a tad higher but the sweep back is not nearly as much. Zeta makes a wide array of fatbars too.

The picture in this example is not a tapered bar, only an illustration of measurements, but the two part numbers listed are tapered
 

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The bars are tapered- 1-1/8" at the mounting points, 7/8" where the controls and grips mount- similar to dirt bikes. Selection is rather limited, but I have some Can Am ATV bars on order that I'm hoping will work. I'm pretty sure that I'll need to move the instrument cluster a bit forward, and also a bit left as the brake reservoir is close as it is. Just dropping them much isn't really an option- the bars get close to the tank at full lock, so lower ones will hit if they're much lower. I likely won't get a chance to install the bars until just after Christmas- they're officially a present from my wife so she'll insist on wrapping them. Part number that I'm ordering is 715000550 by the way- you can find them on Amazon if you type in "Can-Am 715000550". There was also a used set on ebay, but they had scratches that I thought would show, and I didn't want to take the risk even for half the cost ($50, shipped). If you find bars that work, please post.
 

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How do you like them compared to stock?
Ditto, I am very curious how these work. I am 80% sure i will have to replace mine. Are they also compatible with the bar ends?
 

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Good questions:

1. I have no clue how I like them from a riding viewpoint. Due to weather and work schedule, I have not been able to ride the bike since I put them on. Sitting on the bike, I like the position better. I am 6' tall, ride forward when attacking the turns, and I wanted them to sweep back less.

2. These and every other aftermarket bar on the planet are not compatible with the bar end weights. In all of my years, I have never seen handlebars threaded for end weights. Good news is that the aftermarket if flooded with the industry standard pressure type of bar end weights. They can be had for $15 a pair. I chose to go with Faast Company bar inserts to go with the handguards. I have used them on a CR500 Honda that would shake your fillings out, and had good luck with them.

https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-s/anti-vibration-bar-ends.p591366.prd/591366.sku
 

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DNFDOUG, could you do me a favor and hold the stock handlebars up to the ones you installed and snap a quick pic? I'm considering replacing my slightly bent ones with the ones you have, and i want to visualize the differences. Thanks!
 

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I ended up purchasing the Renthal Fatbar (828-02) which fits, and is wider and lower than stock. I also bought a tap and tapped the ends so I could use the stock bad end weights. Although the sweep seems the same, something just doesn't fit me right so the stock bars are back on and I have a Rizoma bar on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ended up purchasing the Renthal Fatbar (828-02) which fits, and is wider and lower than stock. I also bought a tap and tapped the ends so I could use the stock bad end weights. Although the sweep seems the same, something just doesn't fit me right so the stock bars are back on and I have a Rizoma bar on the way.
I have the Rizoma (MA008) installed and really like it. Hand placement is turned in more and lower than stock. It was a bit of a challenge getting the gauge cluster to clear the brake reservoir but made it work in the end. fz.jpg
 

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I have the Rizoma (MA008) installed and really like it. Hand placement is turned in more and lower than stock. It was a bit of a challenge getting the gauge cluster to clear the brake reservoir but made it work in the end. View attachment 2338
I really like the way those look Nakaji! Did you need any special brackets or were you just able to swap the bars out?

Also, what kind of bar-end mirrors are those? Driven D-axis?
 

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I have the Rizoma (MA008) installed and really like it. Hand placement is turned in more and lower than stock. It was a bit of a challenge getting the gauge cluster to clear the brake reservoir but made it work in the end. View attachment 2338
I'd been looking all over for a picture of the actual bar and finally decided to give it a shot anyway. Thanks for the picfture! That's the one that I have on order. Should arrive Friday so looking forward to it!
 

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Rizoma bas look nice. Seems to have a lot of sweep back? Would be nice to have a pic of both handlebars side by side. On their website they give the sweep angle... not the measurement. Hard to tell... I like that they are a bit more narrow too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I really like the way those look Nakaji! Did you need any special brackets or were you just able to swap the bars out?

Also, what kind of bar-end mirrors are those? Driven D-axis?
No, they swapped right out although I had to tilt the instrument cluster by taking out one of the screws. It's still stable with only one screw but I may make a bracket for it eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I really like the way those look Nakaji! Did you need any special brackets or were you just able to swap the bars out?

Also, what kind of bar-end mirrors are those? Driven D-axis?
Forgot to mention that the mirrors are CRG Arrows. They provide an awesome, clear view with absolutely no vibration. I highly recommend them.
 

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Forgot to mention that the mirrors are CRG Arrows. They provide an awesome, clear view with absolutely no vibration. I highly recommend them.
Did you slide the mirrors up on to the new bars or swap out to a bar end set that has space for them?
 

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Forgot to mention that the mirrors are CRG Arrows. They provide an awesome, clear view with absolutely no vibration. I highly recommend them.
Sweet! Thanks for both responses. Everything looks great! Did you need brackets for the mirrors or was everything included?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sweet! Thanks for both responses. Everything looks great! Did you need brackets for the mirrors or was everything included?
Since I didn't have enough remaining space on my bars, I bought bar end mirror adapters. Nothing else was necessary to mount the new bar

CRG Arrow Bar End Mirror - RevZilla

I was going to purchase these http://http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=304
instead which would have done double duty but ended up not needing them since vibration doesn't seem to be an issue. On another note, I've finally been able to log some miles with my Stoltec Moto reflashed ECU and as you all probably already know, the results are AWESOME! The bike is soooo much better tempered, whether at slow speed in traffic/parking lots or while getting back into the throttle in the corners. It really is impressive, the amount of improved response that's been given to an already great machine. Hats off to Nick for giving us a reasonably priced option that makes such a big difference over stock. The only regret I have is not requesting mode A during start up. I'd been riding primarily in standard mode before the reflash but definitely prefer A mode exclusively now. I'll have Nick change it to A when I send it back for the Arrow fueling (fingers crossed).
 

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I used the metal Mulisha Deegan SX high bars...perfect fit. A little longer but no bar ends so the over length is the same with a wider grip. They have less rake and I end up leaning further forward a few inches. Still very comfortable with no vibration.
image.jpg
I left it in color...no sepia :)
 
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