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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
*** This is a review I've done over in the UK so some of the content isn't relevant to you guys, prices, ECU flashing, shipping etc ***


OK so there's no denying that there is a considerable percentage of MT-09/FZ-09 riders around the world that find that throttle can be somewhat jerky/snatchy/on/off. This is something that almost always crops up on any kind of MT-09/FZ-09 review. Some people are fine with it, some people are not. For me personally I found that the jerkyness of the initial throttle roll on especially through lower speed corners was upsetting the attitude of the bike which in turn gave me no confidence with regards to grip levels, it was also causing a small amount of kangarooing while going over speed humps or bumpy roads. This meant I was spending far too much concentration on micro throttle inputs, I'd rather that the throttle was completely natural and not something that had to be thought about all the time.

Currently there's a lack of ECU flashes available in the UK so the only other real alternative to addressing the fueling is fitting a Power Commander and getting it tweaked on a Dyno (£350+). And I don't know about you but after just spending £7200 on a new bike, screen and exhaust I didn't really want to chuck another load of cash at it just yet. I know a lot of owners of other modern fuel injected bikes have had some success taming their throttles by fitting G2's 'Street Tamer Throttle Tube', but of course they don't list one for the MT-09/FZ-09. So after a bit of part number digging and a load of emails to G2 I've managed to find out that one of their products does actually fit the MT-09/FZ-09 (see below). So I got it ordered up straight away and now that it's here and fitted I've contacted G2 again informing them that they may as well start listing the MT-09/FZ-09 on their product list now so it may well show up on their website at some point. So if you're interested all the info you need is below:


What is it?

It's a replacement throttle tube.


What does it do?

Improve control of over-responsive power characteristics of most fuel injected motorcycles. In short this should somewhat dampen the on/off jerky throttle during the initial throttle roll on (pulling away, mid corner etc)


How much does it cost?

The total cost including shipping from the US to the UK was £62.59 ($104.70)


How does it work?

The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.

The actual throttle for this bike comes with what G2 call a '400 CAM' which I'm told has a 20% smaller diameter than the stock throttle tube for the first half of the throttle rotation then ramps up to the stock diameter for the second half of rotation. Basically this means that only the very first throttle roll on will be tamed and the overall rotation from closed to fully open will remain at 1/4 turn (or close) just like the stock throttle. Worth noting though that the cam is replaceable and G2 offer 6 different cam profiles (sold separately) to allow for fine tuning to your own preference (G2 Cams - G2 Ergonomics). As far as I can see the supplied cam should just press off and can be replaced by these but I've not tried any so cannot comment on fitment or performance.



Where do I get one from?

Here, choose any of the following models from their website and you'll be sent a 130mm long throttle tube with a 400 cam profile which is what fits the MT-09:

FZ1 01-12
FZ6 04-12
FZ8 11-12

G2 Street Tamer Throttle Tube - G2 Ergonomics

Delivery from the US took 1 week.

The Yamaha FZ8 '11-'12 uses the exact same throttle as the '13 - '14 Yamaha MT-09 (Grip Assembly 4YR-26240-02). You can check for yourself by going through the 'Online Yamaha Parts Catalogue' if you like, but I have fitted this to my MT-09 and can confirm that it is a direct swap for the stock throttle with no modification needed.



What does it look like?




Here you can see the cam profile:


Stock throttle (no cam):



How do I fit it?

It's a direct replacement for your standard throttle tube:

1. Remove your bar end weight with an 8mm Allen key.
2. Slide the rubber cable cover away from the throttle housing.
3. Remove the 2x bolts holding your throttle housing together with a 4mm Allen key, the housing should now coma apart in to two pieces.
4. Unclip the 2x cable ends from the throttle tube.
5. Slide the throttle tube off of the end of the bars.
6. Remove the grip, I did this by poking something long and thin down under the grip and pouring water down between the grip and the tube, this works great with no brute force required.
7. Fit the grip on to the G2 Throttle Tamer, again pour some water around the inside of the grip and it'll slide right on, the water will then dry leaving the grip on tight. No glue, no fuss, no mess.
8. Follow steps 5 back through to 1 in reverse to refit the new throttle tube. Note that when refitting the lower throttle housing there is a small hole in the underside of the handlebar for this to locate into.
9. Finally adjust the throttle cable slack using the adjuster on the cable.
10. Go ride.



Does it work?

YES!!!!! This is now my bikes new best friend! Worth noting that prior to fitting this I'd already adjusted my in dash C0 settings to 14 on all cylinders (as tried and tested by many forum members) and also adjusted the throttle cable properly to eliminate any slack which did not really help with the jerky throttle. But now since fitting it the bike feels so much better. Throttle roll on is smooth and predictable as it should have been from the factory, I now ride in A-mode all the time and am no longer having to concentrate so much on throttle control. There is still a very slight jerk when first rolling on from a closed throttle but because of the cam at this point the throttle is open a lot less than it used to be so its a much softer and more manageable jerk and no longer upsets the bike attitude like it did before. I can also confirm that the rotation required from closed to fully open is still just 1/4 (see pics below) which I'm told is what the stock throttle is also so overall acceleration is just the same as it was before. Hopefully now the jerky throttle issue is a thing of the past for me.

Throttle closed vs throttle open (G2 Throttle Tamer fitted):



Five stars as it's well worth the £60 and 10min fitting time and has added a ton of rideability to my bike. I'll still be getting the ECU flashed when available as I do have an open pipe and also to rid me of the savage engine breaking but for now for me at least rideability and confidence have gone right up after fitting the Tamer without noticeably affecting performance ;) So I won't be taking it off any time soon.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Beautiful piece of kit!
It really is, when I first saw it I thought 'gimmick' but as above, it's actually pretty handy.

Sent from outer space
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Nicely done well put, but i still like my stoltec.
 

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Thanks. I didn't want to pull out my ECU to reflash it just in case someone figures out how to remove the speed limiter. I'll be sure to post my thoughts on the G2 once it arrives and I get it installed.
 

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The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation.
As said above..."slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carb or throttle body opening". Problem is the FZ-09 throttle isn't connected to a carb or a throttle body. This bike is "ride by wire". So would this product actually prove useful on ride by wire bike? The jerky throttle is part caused by the CPU shutting off the gas flow when the "throttle" is closed....so no matter what kind of a cam ramp you would have on a throttle tube....it would seem this product wouldn't cure or do anything except make the rider rotate the throttle farther than he did before to attain the same speed. I'd be curious to know if it helped at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nicely done well put, but i still like my stoltec.
The Stoltec ECU flash would be my first choice but I have an EU bike which is not compatible :-( As above there are no flashes available in the UK, companies are either waiting on cables or test bikes etc. So the only options currently available here are PCV + Dyno costing £350+ ($585+) so for now while I await for flashes to become available I've come up with a cheaper solution that works.

Sent from outer space
 

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As said above..."slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carb or throttle body opening". Problem is the FZ-09 throttle isn't connected to a carb or a throttle body. This bike is "ride by wire". So would this product actually prove useful on ride by wire bike? The jerky throttle is part caused by the CPU shutting off the gas flow when the "throttle" is closed....so no matter what kind of a cam ramp you would have on a throttle tube....it would seem this product wouldn't cure or do anything except make the rider rotate the throttle farther than he did before to attain the same speed. I'd be curious to know if it helped at all.

Fz09 has throttle cables just like any nonride by wire bike. FZ09 throttle cables lead to a throttle position sensor mounted on the back of the throttle bodies. The tps tells the ecu what throttle input the rider has given and then the ecu opens the throttle bodies/injectors electronically according to the fuel map.

I imagine the throttle tamer smooths out the thrittle input a little. Is it enough to mask the mapping problem, probably not but it is one more place to remove the mechanical slack/slop in the throttle system and that does improve thr throttle feel.

The solution is to correct the problem in the fuel map with a reflash.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Fz09 has throttle cables just like any nonride by wire bike. FZ09 throttle cables lead to a throttle position sensor mounted on the back of the throttle bodies. The tps tells the ecu what throttle input the rider has given and then the ecu opens the throttle bodies/injectors electronically according to the fuel map.

I imagine the throttle tamer smooths out the thrittle input a little. Is it enough to mask the mapping problem, probably not but it is one more place to remove the mechanical slack/slop in the throttle system and that does improve thr throttle feel.

The solution is to correct the problem in the fuel map with a reflash.
Totally agree, it's by no means the solution. That said though in real world terms it has made the bike more rideable and at the end of the day thats all that counts so I'm happy.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Double post
 

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The jerky throttle is part caused by the CPU shutting off the gas flow when the "throttle" is closed....so no matter what kind of a cam ramp you would have on a throttle tube....it would seem this product wouldn't cure or do anything except make the rider rotate the throttle farther than he did before to attain the same speed. I'd be curious to know if it helped at all.
As moto mentioned, the jerkiness is a ~2-part phenomena: an overly aggressive throttle map down low and fuel cut on decel; re-fueling helps a bit, too. The tamer should/could fix the aggressive throttle tip-in, so that will help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As moto mentioned, the jerkiness is a ~2-part phenomena: an overly aggressive throttle map down low and fuel cut on decel; re-fueling helps a bit, too. The tamer should/could fix the aggressive throttle tip-in, so that will help.
Yep thats exactly what its done, it's given the jerky part of the roll on more throttle rotation and in turn more resolution, so its now dampened and more controllable.

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Awesome write up, good job. Glad to hear it helps with the initial tip in, that will help a lot of those who cant get the ECU flashed. On that note also, I had my ECU flashed by ECUnleashed as I cannot have the flash-tune done either due to a different ECU number and the logistics with posting my ECU overseas.......that would be a nightmare. Local service. Pretty much the same results as others have mentioned with the flash-tune. See here for the dealer in the UK:

Motorbike Performance Centre Essex, Motorbike Tuning Centre Essex, Motorcycle Tuning Services Essex | Race Engineering

Worth noting that prior to fitting this I'd already adjusted my in dash C0 settings to 14 on all cylinders (as tried and tested by many forum members)
I am still very curious about this, does anyone actually know what these settings do or are they just being changed and hoping for the best? Has any dyno/AFR testing been done to ascertain what affect the changes made are doing etc?

No malice intended, I genuinely am curious as I have seen this mentioned many, many times in other forums but nobody can really tell me what affect changing the CO settings is having.

I played with those settings, and adjusted to 14 for each cylinder. The exhaust smelt very rich, very noxious indeed. So no doubt it richens up the mixture when the bike is in the ECO mode..........but are the settings incremental for anything? Such as the difference between taking the setting to 5 instead of 14? How was the value 14 concluded on, i.e what was done to ascertain that this is the best setting to have?

Again, I mean no disrespect or malice, I am genuinely interested in what these settings do. But I am apprehensive in changing settings on my dash that nobody really knows anything about, and nobody has shown any info on what these settings actually do or change. I did see one thread about a dyno tune that was done where they ascertained that 14 was the best setting (I think that may have actually been you RipGroove), but again it didnt mention how that conclusion was reached.
 

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Hi RipGroove, Great write up. I am definitely placing an order. Quick question. It looks like maybe you edited your post. I printed out a copy on Sunday showing that "The G2 part number they should send you will be: 40-4Y-136Y". I double checked the post last night on-line and see detail indicating "Here, choose any of the following models from their website and you'll be sent a 130mm long throttle tube with a 400 cam profile which is what fits the MT-09: FZ1 01-12, FZ6 04-12, FZ8 11-12" (which appears to be pn 40-4Y-130-2, 3 or 5). Can you clarify which one you used? Thanks!

Think I found answer. See note back from G2: "Hi Scott, Yes, those FZ models all use the same throttle as your FZ-09. Thanks! Gary"
Original message: To whom it may concern, I am reading on some of the forums that one of your tamers will fit a 2014 Yamaha FZ-09 (I believe the FZ1 01-12, FZ6 04-12 or FZ8 11-12). Can you confirm what part number would work. I would like to place an order. Thank you for your help! Scott
 

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Graves Motorsports charges $130 for their version for the R1/R6 (don't see one for the FZ1/FZ6...) so I guess $80 is a good deal. But what's the $80 advantage of this over using a zip bit to reduce the ramp on the first 1/2 of your existing throttle tube? I guess you don't have to worry about leaving a rough spot, or taking too much off (shredding your tube...). And even if you're competent with modding your existing tube - with this one you can buy alternate ramps for $25. My only concern is that there's no guide groove for the cable. Doesn't the stock have a guide groove for the cable?
 

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I have the ejk and orderd the throttle tamer as well.
Front wheel lifts are never an accident now.
Coming out/through turns I feel I can dial in the power with less thought.
As smooth as the throttle on my k1200rs....which is very very controllable without any thought.
 
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