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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!

I just joined the FZ09 club - a 2014 with 1700 miles (yearly oil changes), flawless cosmetic condition, paid $5600. Seemed like a decent deal in my area. The previous owner doesn't know much about this bike because he only owned it for a month - said it killed his knees, and the first owner is the one who did all the modifications (no documentation, naturally). Anyway, beyond the cosmetic stuff (comfort seat, heated grips, wind screen, etc), there's a Penske rear shock of some sort and Andreani Group front inserts. These are what I'm more interested in. He told me the rear shock was an "8950" which as far as I can tell doesn't exist. It does have a remote reservoir, the line is held on with a banjo bolt, and it appears double adjustable, which leads me towards the 8983. I've attached a couple pics. Reviews on this seem generally positive. Is there any way to identify what Andreani Group insert is in the front? I'm also not sure what rider this was sized for (does this change anything besides spring rate?)

I grew up on dirt bikes, and since college have been heavy into cars (trackday turbo miata in the pic). This is my first street bike - wish me luck :)
 

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Also - no owners manual. The seller said he thought it was on the stock tune, but it starts in A mode. Is this normal? Elsewhere I've read, that seems like an option offered when reflashing the ECU. The throttle is also not what I would call particularly jerky, which I've read some complaints about with the stock 2014's. Has this thing been flashed?
 

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welcome to the club...not familiar with the suspension set up you have, so no help there. if the bike starts up in A mode all the time, it has been flashed, remove the two bolts behind the fake air scoops on either side of the tank (this avoids the tank from scratching the frame when reinstalling the tank) and the two bolts under the seat. lift the tank and you can see who the ecu has been flashed by, some will sign or put a company decal on it. does it have the stock or aftermarket exhaust installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll check the ECU in the morning - but that was my suspicion. Stock exhaust. The previous owner seemed more interested in turning it into an FJ type bike than anything (comfort seat, wind screen, heated grips, etc.) so I wouldn't be surprised if the purpose of the tune was solely to tame the throttle response.
 

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Sounds like you got a pretty good deal with the mileage, ECU flashed and probably most critical being the suspension, even if you get to change out the springs. With the rear suspension, you can get another spring at your weight and I'm pretty certain that you can do the same with the fork springs. I'd bet that you can probably get the manual online.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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I bet you have one very well treated FZ09. Good find!

I'm no expert, but looks like an 8983 to me as well. As for the Andreani cartridges... I don't think there is any way to tell without disassembly. You should send a pic of the fork caps as that may help some. It is my understanding that the andreani cartridges and "springs" are totally different. You can install andreani cartridges and use the OEM springs with them if you wanted to. So if you end up not liking something or struggle getting the front end dialed in you should just be able to buy springs for your weight from stoltec for $50 or so and know for sure the springs are right.

Hopefully that makes sense. My guess is that something like this was installed, but that's a total shot in the dark. As you can see though the spring comes with this kit. So without knowing the buyers weight you won't know the spring rate.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bet you have one very well treated FZ09. Good find!

I'm no expert, but looks like an 8983 to me as well. As for the Andreani cartridges... I don't think there is any way to tell without disassembly. You should send a pic of the fork caps as that may help some. It is my understanding that the andreani cartridges and "springs" are totally different. You can install andreani cartridges and use the OEM springs with them if you wanted to. So if you end up not liking something or struggle getting the front end dialed in you should just be able to buy springs for your weight from stoltec for $50 or so and know for sure the springs are right.

Hopefully that makes sense. My guess is that something like this was installed, but that's a total shot in the dark. As you can see though the spring comes with this kit. So without knowing the buyers weight you won't know the spring rate.

It does make sense, and the caps look exactly like the ones in that picture. Pricing sounds about right for what the previous owner told me as well.

I'm far from being able to sort out suspension deficiencies on a bike, so I'm just going to ride it until I'm skilled enough to make educated changes. But it's nice to know what's in there - the PO seems to have done a good job with the modifications.
 

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Oh nice! Aftermarket rear shock $$$$ sweet. Check all the settings, write down how many clicks out on the rebound and compression etc. Have a suspension guy help you with the sag and also he can decipher what spring is on the shock and see if it will work for you. New springs are like $100-120 so you can really get it dialed in for you.

Plus being the 14 model you have a self-diagnosing computer system. :) As they have removed that feature from the newer ones so guys have to take their bikes to the dealers if they have a problem somewhere.

As long as you have the front fork setup to match the rear then you are golden. Great buy!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Front fork setup is from a group called andreani group - it seems they do some work with Penske and Ohlins level stuff, but customized for the stock forks? I haven't messed with any of the adjustment settings yet but have put about 250 miles on it so far and I'm loving it. I had a local MotoGP guy check it out yesterday - rear end sags maybe 2" when I sit on it and he said that seemed reasonable for me. I took it on the first mountain/twisty road ride yesterday and had no trouble keeping up with a more experienced buddy on an R1, but I don't have much to compare it to.

I've also never maintained a bike, what should on the short list here? Oil change, oil the chain, check brake pads, replace brake fluid, replace fluid... What else?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
And last night I noticed a ticking between 4-6k RPM, it was there at idle this morning when I cold started and went away after 30 seconds or so. Reminded me of my old hydraulic lash adjusters on the Miata... googled and sure enough, hydraulic chain tensioner on these things is a known issue. Time to put a call into the local dealer, its seems.

Update - called the dealer, my VIN is affected (also by some handlebar recall) but the announcement is expired so Yamaha doesn't pay for it anymore. So, do I roll the dice with a new OE CCT from Yamaha or go with one of the aftermarket manual options? I'm also going to see if a fresh oil change helps - my Miata always used to tick worse when the oil was old because everything was more quick to drain out of the passage when it lost its viscosity.
 

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Hey dude, Uhhh so it just makes the ticking noise on cold startup? That's normal. Keep the oil fresh for SURE. Oil is cheap - engines expensive. Do it every 4K if you cruise around - 3K for hard riding. Easy. NEVER use a manual CCT. NEVER. I see so many over adjusted units leading to premature chain guide breakage. The manual CCT is NOT necessary. I've seen these FZ's run at trackdays for years with stock CCT's. I've seen ZX6's blow the chains from manual CCT's! I've seen many other bikes with worn out chains and guides from them. I ride my FZ hard... I mean hard- clutch popping, wheel spinning, front end in the air half the time... stock engine, not even a clutch or engine cover off, tough as nails!

I seriously think people buy manual CCT's to quiet a chain down before they sell the bike. "Overtighten the sucker to make it not slap around and sell it" they say. Fixing a worn chain or worn guides costs a lot of money so they over tighten the sucker and send it away to the next sucker. If you are a pro racer... it's different! Anyone else - only fools buy such farkles.
 

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Hey dude, Uhhh so it just makes the ticking noise on cold startup? That's normal. Keep the oil fresh for SURE. Oil is cheap - engines expensive. Do it every 4K if you cruise around - 3K for hard riding. Easy. NEVER use a manual CCT. NEVER. I see so many over adjusted units leading to premature chain guide breakage. The manual CCT is NOT necessary. I've seen these FZ's run at trackdays for years with stock CCT's. I've seen ZX6's blow the chains from manual CCT's! I've seen many other bikes with worn out chains and guides from them. I ride my FZ hard... I mean hard- clutch popping, wheel spinning, front end in the air half the time... stock engine, not even a clutch or engine cover off, tough as nails!

I seriously think people buy manual CCT's to quiet a chain down before they sell the bike. "Overtighten the sucker to make it not slap around and sell it" they say. Fixing a worn chain or worn guides costs a lot of money so they over tighten the sucker and send it away to the next sucker. If you are a pro racer... it's different! Anyone else - only fools buy such farkles.
After 5 replacements by Yamaha when my warranty ran out I changed to a manual adjuster ,they never came up with a good solution on the first gen
 

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Wow no way! is that a common thing with the older ones? Man I would love to get in that engine and see what the heck was causing it to not work properly... something was going on. dang - good to know. I don't know everything about everything... just speak from the bikes I've worked on with my own hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hydraulic adjusters in general are pretty finicky in my experience. My mustang had similar issues with plastic chain guides wearing out; the aforementioned HLAs in my Miata also ticked when the oil was old or the car was driven hard.

I put some fresh oil in there this weekend, though the old stuff didn't look bad at all. I believe the prior owner's story of yearly oil changes regardless of mileage. I'll give it a good thrashing sometime this week and see if the noise comes back. The later yamaha p/n are only $75, if I need to replace it I'll probably do that first and if it doesn't work then try out a manual adjuster.

I also need to pick up a socket for the axle nut to adjust the chain tension - mine seems pretty loose (about 1.25" measured with the kick stand down). It seems 0.75" is about the sweet spot from what I've read, though the manual says 5-15mm?
 

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And last night I noticed a ticking between 4-6k RPM, it was there at idle this morning when I cold started and went away after 30 seconds or so. Reminded me of my old hydraulic lash adjusters on the Miata... googled and sure enough, hydraulic chain tensioner on these things is a known issue. Time to put a call into the local dealer, its seems.
The consensus on this seems to be if it ticks on startup and goes away shortly after, don't bother with the change. Mine's been doing this for the first 20-30 seconds its entire life and hasn't been a problem in 5 years.

I also need to pick up a socket for the axle nut to adjust the chain tension - mine seems pretty loose (about 1.25" measured with the kick stand down). It seems 0.75" is about the sweet spot from what I've read, though the manual says 5-15mm?
This can be as controversial as oil threads but yes, .75" or slightly more is WAY better than the manual's numbers which are incredibly tight. Slightly loose is better than too tight.

Also, the rear axle nut spec in the manual is an insane 108 lb ft. Years ago I found someone suggesting 85 on here and it has served me well with no evidence of the wheel ever moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Another ride up into the mountains this weekend. A little wet/foggy but we still had a good time.
157078


The rattling goes away pretty quickly on startup but seems to come back occasionally when riding more aggressively (high RPM going up and down the mountain, for example). Basically when the engine (oil) is nice and hot, I'm guessing the tensioner loses a little slack and backs out a bit.

I have to take it into my dealer at some point for some kind of handlebar bushing recall, I'll have them check it out then.
 
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