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Hello guys,

Hope you're all had a great start to your new year. I have a question regarding my new oxford grip heaters I got as a present for Christmas. When I install the grips on the bike, then the wiring could be a problem as we all know it's a naked bike and new wires can be a challenge, can anybody give me any tips to hiding the wires on my FZ? I have Buell Clubman bars on my bike if that makes a difference when the wires come together to the battery. Thanks, Robert.
 

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Pulling the tank off makes it real easy to get the power wires back to the battery.I hid all the grip plug ins under the cover thats in front of the tank.Lots of room there.The wires to the grips run along the bars and are easy to the to the factory harnesses.
Take your time and it will all work out. The grips fit real tight. I didnt use the grip adhesive.Sprayed the inside of the grips with brake clean and slid them on. I had to bend the controller mounting plate to get it to fit on the throttle side bar clamp but it all worked out
 

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Hello guys,

Hope you're all had a great start to your new year. I have a question regarding my new oxford grip heaters I got as a present for Christmas. When I install the grips on the bike, then the wiring could be a problem as we all know it's a naked bike and new wires can be a challenge, can anybody give me any tips to hiding the wires on my FZ? I have Buell Clubman bars on my bike if that makes a difference when the wires come together to the battery. Thanks, Robert.
Any particular reason you are not running the wires to the Aux connector under the right side air scoop? Im not familiar with the Oxford grips, but if you ran it to the Aux connector it would be on a switched circut. By doing that i was able to run the wires from my heated grips along some of the existing wiring for the headlights. And i was then able to tuck everything in behind the headlight housing pretty cleanly.
 

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Any particular reason you are not running the wires to the Aux connector under the right side air scoop? Im not familiar with the Oxford grips, but if you ran it to the Aux connector it would be on a switched circut. By doing that i was able to run the wires from my heated grips along some of the existing wiring for the headlights. And i was then able to tuck everything in behind the headlight housing pretty cleanly.
I've never used grip heaters before, so I don't know how much current they draw, but the aux. connector that you are referring to under the right scoop is only rated for 2 amps at 12V...........or 24 watts. That certainly wouldn't be my choice for supplying power to a set of grip heaters.
 

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I've never used grip heaters before, so I don't know how much current they draw, but the aux. connector that you are referring to under the right scoop is only rated for 2 amps at 12V...........or 24 watts. That certainly wouldn't be my choice for supplying power to a set of grip heaters.
Not gonna lie... i dont know much about amprages and power use in a system like this. I did change the 2 amp Aux fuse to a 4amp since it blew the 2 amp fuse. all seems to be working fine with no issues now. I did ask a mechanic buddy of mine with more knowledge and he said i shouldnt have any issues, the wiring sould be plenty to support that amperage. I didn't ask for an explaination... try it and see was my mentality.
 

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OK, by virtue of the fact that the 2 amp fuse blew, it obviously is pulling more than 2 amps. Doubling your fuse size to 4 amps is never a good idea, as the wire may not be of a rated ampacity for the amount of current flowing when the heaters are on high. I don't know the gauge of the wire supplying that circuit, but as I recall seeing the plug when I had mine apart early last year, the wire is very small gauge. It's obviously being fed to that point (where the plug is at) and I don't know if it is really safe to "overload" that part of the circuit. You might want to check into it a bit further.
 
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OK, by virtue of the fact that the 2 amp fuse blew, it obviously is pulling more than 2 amps. Doubling your fuse size to 4 amps is never a good idea, as the wire may not be of a rated ampacity for the amount of current flowing when the heaters are on high. I don't know the gauge of the wire supplying that circuit, but as I recall seeing the plug when I had mine apart early last year, the wire is very small gauge. It's obviously being fed to that point (where the plug is at) and I don't know if it is really safe to "overload" that part of the circuit. You might want to check into it a bit further.
Fair enough. I can understand your reasoning and concern there. I did ask about the gauge of wire, and i was told it "should" be sufficent for the amount of amps being drawn. The tech didn't think the grips would drawn that much, but again i have no facts/specs to back that up. I do believe they are drawing more than he thought since it did pop the 2amp fuse initially. im sure i could easily find the specs needed to determine if set up i am running is correct/safe... but honestly im not to worried about it. Not sure if this would even tell me anything but i have been inspecting the wiring and connector for melting/overheating and have seen no such indication.

So i guess i better post a warning for anyone going to do what i did.... This set up may not be the right thing to do. Proceed at your own risk!
 

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Fair enough. I'm not trying to pick on you, I just am trying to help you make sure that you don't have any issues with this setup. I've been a Journeyman Electrician since 1980 so I do know that using the properly sized electrical equipment is essential for good performance and safety of the product.
 

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Fair enough. I'm not trying to pick on you, I just am trying to help you make sure that you don't have any issues with this setup. I've been a Journeyman Electrician since 1980 so I do know that using the properly sized electrical equipment is essential for good performance and safety of the product.
I understand and didn't take it that way at all :) In all your posts you are very respectfull and helpfull so i really do appreciate your concern and help! I really did mean to look into more after i put them on but forgot about it. Iv been riding just about every day for 2 months with them now. For me that is good enough. I know it's not the right approach but ehh.. maybe ill stop being lazy and look into it later. For now my fingers are crossed and i ride on!
 

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The Oxford sport grips come with plenty of length on the wire and include a fuse inline and battery sized ring terminals. The controller has an auto off feature that actually works. No need for a switched power source.
Save the power under the scoop for something lighter duty that needs switching. Direct to battery is as simple as it gets
 

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I used DevilsThorn's install thread (thanks DevilsThorn!) when I installed my Oxford grips about a month ago. I already had wired a USB female outlet to the accessory outlet in the air scoop

Used the long handle of a metal spoon to work under the stock grips to get the glue to separate from the handlebars. Shot some WD-40 in-between the rubber grip and handlebar to dissolve the glue. Made getting the stock grips off real easy. Just make sure to thoroughly clean the WD-40 off before installing the new grips.

Removed the 4 bolts for the tank to get the tank up a little bit. Enough to route the wires to the battery. I stuffed the excess cable under the foam inside the tank (hard to explain but you'll get it once you have the tank up a little).

I mounted the controller to the plastic piece in front of the tank. I MUCH prefer it there than to somewhere on the handlebars. Makes the install look very clean.

Good luck. It took me about 45 mins start to finish. Never thought I'd need heated grips in Northern California. But they've been a lifesaver on the mid 30-deg mornings
 
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