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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys hope everyone is well and loving there fz09. But recently I have had a hard time starting the bike after it sits over night it will crank but will not fire until you crank it a second time it only happens after it sits over night I do have a custom pc-v tune and full header back exhaust but the problem is very recent and I have tried gas from different station the bike is not a cally spec bike and my dealer blows and said there was nothing wrong lol
 

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I have experienced the same thing... completely stock FZ-09. I let the fuel pump prime fully and then try to start it... it sounds like it's fired up so I come off the starter and then it dies. The 2nd attempt though it immediately starts and runs flawlessly. It's gotten better as our temps have warmed up here in town, even if it's a cold start, but I don't think it's anything to worry about.


Others may be able to provide more insight.
 

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Ditto, turn on the kill switch, then turn on the ignition. Otherwise, pump won't prime, requiring a second start attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I leave my kill switch on all the time and turn the bike off with the key so I'm letting the fuel pump prime before I start it but at least I'm not the only one with the issue thanks guys
 

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I think it's a problem with the FZ09's.
If you had an MT 09 like I do, you could change the CO settings to richen it up a bit and it makes the cold starts easier. Worked for me.
Although that's a cold morning in Sydney, Australia in autumn which let's face it, isn't actually that cold.
 

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Aside on using the kill switch:
I don't know how durable Yamaha's combo kill/start switch is. But, the red run/stop switch on other bikes can be kind of fragile. I know what the safety courses say about always using it to turn off the engine. But, that was probably taught before the era of tip over kill switches. Use the little red switch to stop the engine enough and it can and will fail. My safety school owning friend Rob used to get into heated arguments with me over this detail until one day HIS switch died right there in the shop. "My bike won't start!" I held the starter button down with one hand and rocked the red switch a few times to clean the terminals and the engine roared to life. Sheepishly, he finally gave in.
I opened the owner's manual on my GL1800 and showed him where Honda even cautions against using the run/stop switch to regularly stop the engine: Key switch only!
Need another reason to leave the button on and use the key?
How many times have you or someone you've seen stop a motorcycle with the handlebar switch and leave the ignition on without realizing it? Dead batteries are no fun. =)
 

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I think it's a problem with the FZ09's.
If you had an MT 09 like I do, you could change the CO settings to richen it up a bit and it makes the cold starts easier. Worked for me.
Although that's a cold morning in Sydney, Australia in autumn which let's face it, isn't actually that cold.
Our MT's do it too. Have had one or two missed starts. And I always use the key to switch the engine off.

And I would still ove to get an answer from somebody.........anybody......about this CO adjustment.

Nobody knows what it actually changes, by how much and to what affect. Everyone is just upping all cylinders to 14 based on one thread on another forum and that worries me a little. Running too rich to me can be just as bad as running lean. Excess build up over the long run on valves and plugs.

I tried this CO adjustment, and my bike frequently overheated at a stop and noticed zero difference to the way the bike runs except for it seeming to be a bit boggier on the roll of the throttle. Not smoother, just laggier.

Put them all back to zero and the bike runs like a dream.

Would love to get more insight into this CO adjustment if anyone knows what the setting actually means and does. Marthy? I know you have lots of experience with Yammies and fuelling.............hoping you can explain further.
 

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I put mine up to 10, and it seemed a bit smoother, which might have been in my head.
However, I was having problems with cold starts at 5am, the day after I changed it up to 10 from 0, on the button, crisp and clean.
My understanding is that a bike runs cooler when it's rich, so I don't think the overheating is from mucking around with the CO settings.
When you say overheated, you mean the warning light came on and it overheated, spat coolant everywhere and stopped, or the temp rose, fan came on and the temp dropped like it's supposed to?
 

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Mine won't start on the first crank of the day, no matter how long I hold it. If i let it crank for just 1 second, then stop and try again, it fires right up. I never use the emergency switch to shut the engine down, I always use the key.

It's not anything i worry about though.
 

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I put mine up to 10, and it seemed a bit smoother, which might have been in my head.
However, I was having problems with cold starts at 5am, the day after I changed it up to 10 from 0, on the button, crisp and clean.
My understanding is that a bike runs cooler when it's rich, so I don't think the overheating is from mucking around with the CO settings.
When you say overheated, you mean the warning light came on and it overheated, spat coolant everywhere and stopped, or the temp rose, fan came on and the temp dropped like it's supposed to?
Sorry I should have been more precise on the overheating part.

I am fully aware of how the fan works, that is pretty basic knowledge. My problem was this..............never in the whole time I have owned the bike have I hit 106 deg on 10 degree morning at 5:30am, sitting at traffic lights for half as long as is usual for that time of day, maybe a minute at best. And up from about 72-82 degrees during normal travel to 82-92 degrees. I have come across anothe owner on the forum who has had a very similar issue of temps rising.

Summer days and warmer stop/go traffic.......yes it gets near to 100 degrees at lights at stops but have never hit 106 (fan on temp) on any other occasion except for at home playing around. Never during normal street riding in any case. However my area is quite cool, and I do not live in the city. I am an hour out of the city and my runs are quite free. The only time I am stopped is at traffic lights.

Indeed richer mixtures run cooler, so this was my concern that maybe what everyone is fiddling with is in the unknown. As when I took the CO level back to 0 on all cylinders, my temp dropped back to the value I have been used to seeing, and got to 96 degres max at best whilst stopped at lights. And that was on the way home, at 4.30 in the afternoon............stopped at those lights for at least 3 minutes...........15 degrees warmer than it was that morning when I had my CO levels at 14.

I saw no difference anyway from adjusting the CO. If anything, I felt it made it less responsive..........laggy if you will. Back to 0 and will stay that way for now until I see some good knowledgeable info about exactly what these values are, how they are measured, how they are graduated, and what affect it has on your AFR. For all we know, the values may be non-linear. The value 2 may be double of number 1. The value of 3 may be double of number 2. Or it could be linear. Nobody knows.

And do we know if the CO levels......are they referring to carbon monoxide (CO) or carbon dioxide (CO2)? Or neither?

I really just like to know everything about a modification I undertake before plunging head first. It seems that many have, without really understanding any of the principles behind the changes. I dont know the principles either, so am very curious on this matter.
 

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Poo... sounds like you were making the mixture leaner, from that description.
 

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Poo... sounds like you were making the mixture leaner, from that description.
I wish I chose a different username sometimes lol........

That was exactly the conclusion I was coming to also, it got hotter than normal, quicker than normal, on a cold morning. I saw temps that I only see during the daytime or afternoon. I was afraid of it being lean straight away.........so much that I actually pulled over before I got to work and shut the bike off and reset the values. By the time I got to work, temp had dropped back down to normal. Maybe I was going the wrong way with the values? But I could have sworn everyone I have seen so far has just stated the value of 14.

Bugger it, it runs bloody pretty perfect set at 0 anyways.........still lofts the wheel in first 3 gears regardless. Happy days!!

Still very curious as to how it all works.
 

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you can make it leaner through the dash, too. Mine gets warm, but i mostly commute at a "spirited" pace through peak hour traffic - fan comes on sometimes at lights, but the temp drops while I'm sitting there, so nothing overly concerning. Normal free flowing traffic temps are fine.
Considering my other bike is a very streetfightered VFR800, a model that is notorious for running hot, the MT seems fine.
I'm gonna have a play around now. Although it's pissing down rain in Sydney today, so don't expect an an answer straight away.
 

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Mine has started doing this again. At first it was because i would leave my kill switch in the off position and keyed on first. The pump doesn't prime when you do it that way, so i started leaving the switch on and it would fire right up! Then my bike sat with the tank off for about 5 days while i waited for my ecu to come back from getting flashed , and now even when i leave the switch in the on position, the bike takes 2 tries to start. Its so annoying.
 

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Very annoying. I'm in the club too as of about a week ago. 1100-ish miles when it started. Always shut it off with the key and leave the kill switch on. Warm/hot start is always immediate but cold start is consistently on the second crank. Crank for a second or two, starts & dies...crank again, fires right up and runs fine. I haven't tried to keep cranking on the first attempt to see if it will fire a second time but it sounds like another member tried this and it just kept cranking...if that's the case it would not be fuel pressure related (was thinking it might be a fuel pressure damper and/or regulator not properly compensating for the increased pressure drop on cold start). I've even tried letting the fuel pump prime a few times before cranking but no difference. Hard to say what it might be without knowing more about how the ECU is programmed and which parameters are in use at cold startup that are not in use when warm. Can't really think of any one sensor that would cause it unless there is an ignition pickup or similar so the computer knows when the engine is running...ECU might be looking for a start confirmation and not getting it on the first try? But, even then I couldn't explain why it would only happen on cold starts. Just thinking out loud.

Guess it's time to study the manual for some more insight. Afterthought...going to try resetting the ECU tonight. Maybe a self-adjustment started to get off track.
 

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I'm in this same boat. My bike started experiencing the exact same problems right around 1200 miles. All break-in procedures up to date, non-CA model. I'm also experiencing a throttle-lag during warm-up. I can roll the throttle and the engine will rev, but it seems to hang up and get stuck on its way down, hovering above regular idle for a second or two. I don't know if this is related, but when all this started acting up I also noticed that my fuel gauge is always lower than accurate at start up, raising itself as the bike warms up.
 

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I forgot to add that Ive tried putting the kill switch in the "on" position before turning the key, and also turning the key and then hitting the switch. I can hear the fuel pump prime and it still occurs.
 

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Just reset the ECU and it fired up first try. I will report back if that really fixed it.
 
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