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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Bike is having trouble starting frequently. From what ive read and looked into its seems to be, no surprise, related to the emission system on the bike. Trying to see if anyone with the California model has removed there evap canister or anything else off the bike and seen an improvement in the bike running.
 

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I've removed it, and it runs fine. But i haven't spent enough time running it to say if it improves anything. I'm going to register it in Montana(I'm military) to avoid any legal issues. I can keep you updated on that.
 

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Im gonna remove mine after I get exhaust. I too have had starting issues. I was on a group ride with 4 09's in the mountains and all 4 had an issue at the same time. All ca bikes.
 

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The evap can is right above the rear shock upper mount. It's held on with two bolts and comes out super easy. There are three purge lines, one coming off the top of each throttle body. They all join into one hose that connects to the canister. I think you are supposed to either plug the end of this line or remove the airbox and cap off the nipples on the top of each throttle body. There is a hose coming off the gas tank that goes to the canister which should be routed to the ground with the other hose from the tank.

I haven't removed mine so I can't say I'm 100% sure of this but the 49 state throttle bodies don't have the purge hose nipples so it make sense to cap them off as opposed to venting to the atmosphere. Hope this helps.

Daniel


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The Fz-09 has similar reed valves like my 2004 VFR800.
There are 2 read valves on the FZ. A dual and a single =3 so each cylinder has one but only 2 hoses feed them. each valve has a hose coming from the air cut off valve and the valve has an inlet hose plus an electrical connector from the ECU. The reeds open during negative pressure in the exhaust system. Therefore, if the cut off valve is open (or removed), fresh air will pass into the exhaust . I remember I had to plug the inlet on each reed valve when I removed the system on my VFR.

You may be getting extra air into your exhaust and confusing the oxygen sensor. It could explain why it could run hot as reported in another post. I believe the California bike has the canister added but all motors have this reed system.
 

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I put about 20 miles on the bike today and I had no starting issues. I got gas and stopped and started about 4 or 5 times because I was monitoring my radiator macguyver. But I was overheating, but I think my radiator needs bleeding so I don't think they are related. But after advice from Bill and Daniel I'm going to close off my purge tube to ensure everything is running correctly.

As far as starting though....no issues at all.
 

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Im gonna remove mine after I get exhaust. I too have had starting issues. I was on a group ride with 4 09's in the mountains and all 4 had an issue at the same time. All ca bikes.
I should have recorded that. It was funny and sad... BTW, on my last email to Malcom Smith's service dept. for my rattling cam chain, I told them to pass that hard start complaint on to Yamaha, and referenced our simultaneous hard start incident. I'll update if they give any info on it.


Typical hard start after the bike warms up and is shut off for ~ 15 minutes. Does it almost every time I ride home for lunch and try to fire it up to go back to work.
Hopefully someone can sort this issue out.

 

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I should have recorded that. It was funny and sad... BTW, on my last email to Malcom Smith's service dept. for my rattling cam chain, I told them to pass that hard start complaint on to Yamaha, and referenced our simultaneous hard start incident. I'll update if they give any info on it.


Typical hard start after the bike warms up and is shut off for ~ 15 minutes. Does it almost every time I ride home for lunch and try to fire it up to go back to work.
Hopefully someone can sort this issue out.

This works for me:

Only use the key to turn off the bike, and before you turn the key back to the on position make sure the kill switch is also in the on position.

For some reason with the kill switch in the off position, it doesn't prime the fuel pump. You will notice a different sound depending on the kill switch position when you turn the key on.

In the video you hear that sound after you turn on the kill switch.

So recommended start up procedure is:

1. Kill switch on
2. Key on
3. Wait for it to prime~5 seconds
4. Start bike

If that doesn't work try using an ethanol stabilizer in your gas, but I think it will help.

Zach
 

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So recommended start up procedure should be:

1. Kill switch on
2. Key on
3. Wait for it to prime~5 seconds
4. Start bike
yeah, this is the simplest way to turn the bike on and have it start easily.

although i've noticed that the fuel pump will prime even if the run switch is off when the key is turned on, as long as you turn the run switch on during that initial 'booting up' phase that happens when you first turn the key on. but it will only prime for the remaining duration of the bootup phase, so if you turn the run switch on late in the bootup, it might only prime a tiny bit.

it's easier just to make sure the run switch is on before turning on the key.
 

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I removed the canister and extended the right side tube to the atmosphere, have had no issues in the past 200 or so miles. Haven't had any starting issues to date, insert key, let display do its thing for a few seconds then start, action, time to play.
 

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Out of curiosity, what is your turn-OFF procedure then? As you mentioned, you turn the bike off with the key.... Then, you put the kill-switch to the kill/off position?
 

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I just turn off the key and that's it. In the MSF training they had us do "thumb, key". Don't know what the reasoning is for that, my thinking of the kill switch is that is is an "oh shit" switch. If I am just parking my bike I turn off the ignition and lock the steering and call it a day.
 

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I just turn off the key and that's it. In the MSF training they had us do "thumb, key". Don't know what the reasoning is for that, my thinking of the kill switch is that is is an "oh shit" switch. If I am just parking my bike I turn off the ignition and lock the steering and call it a day.
Thats all i do...no reason to do more.
 

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I have had this issue before, on a different bike. This may not be it, but what was happening on my bike was that when the tank was super full, the bike would sit after running, the motor would heat the tank and that would heat the gas. This caused the gas to expand and force liquid fuel in to the canister, it would overwhelm the canister and then force it into the cylinders and flood the motor. Since then, the first thing I do to EVERY bike is remove the canister. It doesnt help anything, It is to condense fuel fumes only. It does not effect tune or anything. It definitely wont make you bike run better, but it can fix problems, like the one I had. Also, I had to figure this out on my own. My dealer was clueless. It also saves some good weight. I seriously had like, 7 evap canisters in my garage which I finally threw away.
 

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I have had this issue before, on a different bike. This may not be it, but what was happening on my bike was that when the tank was super full, the bike would sit after running, the motor would heat the tank and that would heat the gas. This caused the gas to expand and force liquid fuel in to the canister, it would overwhelm the canister and then force it into the cylinders and flood the motor. Since then, the first thing I do to EVERY bike is remove the canister. It doesnt help anything, It is to condense fuel fumes only. It does not effect tune or anything. It definitely wont make you bike run better, but it can fix problems, like the one I had. Also, I had to figure this out on my own. My dealer was clueless. It also saves some good weight. I seriously had like, 7 evap canisters in my garage which I finally threw away.
Im pretty sure thats it then. For me when it happens it sputters to life and smells very rich from exhaust. I believe you finally answered the mystery. Also on off was always done with key and still had starting issues once in awhile. So this example explains everything thank you. Now we just need a vid for removal, or a step by step with pics.
 

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This happens on most of the new fuel injected dual sport KTM's stock, excess fuel from the tank gets into the evap lines and canister in turn causing hard starting and even stuttering over obstacles. Remove the evap stuff, plug up the ports correctly per the instructions and ride it for a bit - see how it does. Does the CA version of the FZ09 run different mapping or is it just the presence of the evap equipment that makes it different? All the Aprilia RSV4s are legal in CA and had the evap canister, I pulled mine day one before even riding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Can anyone take a photo of the canister and provide what is involved in removing it. I'm having trouble locating it. Does the gas tank have to be removed?
 
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