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I'm going to start with adding one of the fuel controllers first. I figure this bike was programmed and tuned in optimum settings, humidity, temperature, elevation/pressure. This is probably one of the reasons for some of the varied performance reports. If money is no factor at ALL, what would be the highest recommended fuel controller. I am pc literate (associates) and just previously worked 3 years as a auto mechanic.... not motorcycle.... but an 02 sensor is an 02 sensor. What would you folks recommend? and why? other than cost.
 

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For different reasons. I wouldn't bother with a fuel controller until you want to modify her. I don't think you'll gain much with a tune in stock form. If you want better rideablity, Fizzer's suggestion on the ECU reflash is the way to go.
 

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If you look at the Stoltec stock ECU flash, there are actually very impressive gains in stock form. It almost makes an aftermarket exhaust, just a noise maker.

 

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I recommend ecu flash and a bazzaz. Thats my set up and I love it. The bazzaz stores two maps in it and you can change on the fly by removing or installing a jumper plug. I use this often when I go on spirited rides. I ride to location, remove baffle and jumper and off I go. When I head home re install jumper and baffle and im good to go. I do this because there is a huge noise difference without the baffle and I dont want that to be the reason I get pulled over. I reccomend having both ecu flash and controller because you have more tuning capabilities with the fuel controller. You can do air filter. Airbox mod exhaust and tune with controller, and get it dyno/tuned by any decent tuner. With only ecu flash your options are limited.
 

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O2 sensor on the 09 is a pain! When I did the R&D with the EJK controller we try to offset it to get better AFR then 14.7:1 and it wouldn't do it. Now as tuning goes there's few options out there. I do not personally believe in a one map or tune fit all but there's some good flash tune out there with fuel correction. In my book flexibility is the key. A fuel map that work great in Florida won't work the same in Denver by example. So to me having some tuning abilities is a must. Flashtune and Nick at Stoltec does a fantastic job at tuning the throttle opening o smooth things out, but I won't go blind on fuel maps. The only bike that would be 100% tune are the bikes that they use to do the tune... Too many variable comes into play to be one size fit all.
 

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1 week turnaround...

I can't see spending $1k for an exhaust that provides a couple HP over a stock bike with a flash, for $145. That's bad economy.
 

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As the others have said if your stock then go the ECU flash - its cheap in the US unlike here in Australia so its one of the most cost effective mods you could do.

Worry about the fuel controllers when and if you start modding.
 

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Well, most who buy an exhaust is for the change in sound, more-so than increase in power. I am one of them. My bike is a toy, like the other machines in the garage, and I like to hear them sing. If it were a commuter bike, that would be a different story. My work trucks do not have a single noise increasing mod. That said, a dyno tune with an EFI controller is always best. Or, a tuner like I use on my RZR; Dobeck AFR+ smart tuner, tune it yourself with the A/F gauge/controller and she does the rest. I should contact them and see if they are planning a plug and play for the FZ.

For the ones not sweating some tuning time or have a dyno available, ECU flash AND EFI controller would be best. For those not wanting to mess with a thing; ECU flash with fueling alterations would be best.

I like that the Bazzaz can store two maps. I could see myself doing the same thing!
 

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Wheelies? Where did that come from? Left field. Guys, don't forget to tell him about the fuel cutoff circuit on deceleration that Stoltec's flash cures. I am personally going with a PC5 with an auto tune to go with the Flash. No jumper or altitude to worry about. DB killer in and out whenever. I just need the time to install it all. I will get a base map to work from, though.
 

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Remember that with all the added power and tweaks, you need to be able to control it.. ergo power without control confers dictatorship.
In other words strengthen your control by upgrading the suspension to carry the additional power, not to mention your affection for braking.
 

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I have the PCV and autotune, and it's worked very well for me and my set-up. You just need to take the time to accept the new maps every ~3-500miles until its fairly set in its fueling if you go with autotune. PCV will also hold two, and you can get a toggle switch that mounts on the bike
 

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I have the PCV and autotune, and it's worked very well for me and my set-up. You just need to take the time to accept the new maps every ~3-500miles until its fairly set in its fueling if you go with autotune. PCV will also hold two, and you can get a toggle switch that mounts on the bike
Still have the OEM O2 sensor connected?
 

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Marthy, I do still have the stock one to trim fuel at 2-5% throttle or "cruising" throttle, where the PCV is disabled. I have PCV set up for >5% throttle fueling, and let the ecu cruise the bike at 14.7 AFR for better mpg
 

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Marthy, I do still have the stock one to trim fuel at 2-5% throttle or "cruising" throttle, where the PCV is disabled. I have PCV set up for >5% throttle fueling, and let the ecu cruise the bike at 14.7 AFR for better mpg
You should try to run advgear map and use 14.7 in top gears only and 13.5 on the bottom ends gear. Let A/T do the work and canned the OEM O2 sensor. So basically once you're happy with your map you should be able to run the A/T to tune the open loop only +/- 15% or something like that.
 

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Marthy, I use the gear-dependent maps, but anytime the eco thing comes on (cruising at ~constant speed) it goes to 14.7, which is more or less alway 4th+ gear. I have AFR at 12.8 in first gear, 13.0 in 2nd, and 13.2 in 3rd, then 13.4 in the rest at high throttle opening. I do that for the fuel to keep up with how fast the engine revs up better and it seems to work fairly well. However, I am not a "pro" tuner, most experience is with drag vehicles at WOT. Is this anywhere close to your set up? I'm always open to suggestions and like playing with the AFRs to see what I get
 

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Marthy, I do still have the stock one to trim fuel at 2-5% throttle or "cruising" throttle, where the PCV is disabled. I have PCV set up for >5% throttle fueling, and let the ecu cruise the bike at 14.7 AFR for better mpg
How are you using the Auto Tune AND the OEM sensor? Did you weld another bung into the mid pipe?
 

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I have been researching this as well. I contacted DynoJet, and this is what they said about the PCV and autotune:

"Most of this info you can find in the install guide for the bike model here: http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/22-058/install/pcv/eng22-058.01.pdf

Yes, the PC5 unit comes with an O2 Optimizer. It connects in-line with the stock O2 sensor and offsets the stock O2 signal to get the bike a bit richer than stock in the closed loop range, which consequently makes the bike run better in the stock closed loop range.

You can still add Auto-tune; but if you do, you should keep Auto-tune inactive in the stock closed loop range where the stock sensor is active. You also will need to weld an additional bung onto the exhaust for the Auto-tune wideband O2 sensor.

All of the Auto-tune and PCV hardware should store discreetly inside of the tail. The Auto-tune O2 sensor can be right next to the stock sensor and the cable can follow alongside the stock cable.

We do recommend blocking off the AIS when using Auto-tune."

It seems that I have a few things to learn before picking them up and using them on my bike.
 
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