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Discussion Starter #1
Who hear has played with the throttle by wire maps? I was running the Graves file for a while but switched over to the unrestricted to allow me to modify the maps since the graves file is restricted. I purchased the active tune kit which I use to update the saved fuel mapping quite regularly as it's incredibly easy to update after a good ride. Between the updated fuel maps and running the live active tune the bike has gotten incredibly smooth but I still notice a little room for improvement which has led me to start looking at the throttle by wire maps.

Since switching to the unrestricted file there was a noticeable reduction in power in B mode. Looking at the throttle by wire map for B mode the FTECU unrestricted file only opens the throttle body to a maximum of 70% unlike the stock setting that still opens 100% but has tamed the lower half of the throttle.

I've also uploaded my most recent modified version of the unrestricted file to the FTECU server. If anyone is interested you can find it under username/e-mail [email protected]. Not too many FZ/MT-09 file shares on the FTECU server so maybe this will help get the ball rolling for those using the software.
 

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I would like to play with mine - what hardware/software is required? The FZ09 I just bought also starts in A mode, which I don't like and would like to change. I have experience in tuning cars (my turbo Miata runs a megasquirt, which I tuned myself) - I would like to tinker with this one and see if I can get the herky jerky on/off throttle a little better. I'm guessing this is what I need?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You can tune the throttle by wire maps without the FTECU Active Tune but it just wouldn't make much sense based on the experience I've had. Turning off the DECEL fuel cut with the flash tune is the first step in getting rid of the herky jerky and than getting your fuel mapping dialed in made a considerable difference as well. Once you've reached a point where your fuel mapping is on point the last bit of fine tuning is left in the throttle by wire maps.
 

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How exactly does that box work? I'm assuming the factory ECU is expecting a narrowband input of some sort - does that box just offset the narrowband O2 signal sent to the ECU? I have an extra wideband lying around my garage, which can do narrowband emulation for factory ECU's, and can also log data to my laptop for tuning the old fashioned way...
 

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a big part of the tuning is disabling the stock narrow band o2 sensor, it can then be removed from the bike

so you could use your wideband to data log and tune or if you wanted to spend the money get the active tune

the TPS portion with the data logger is pretty easy its the MAP table that is tough as in the software its difficult to know where on the MAP table you are as a given time. The active tune is very nice for this

157054
 

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Not sure how I feel driving around open-loop all the time. Are these bikes tuned with speed density? I don't see anything referencing a mass air flow meter anywhere. The fueling on my Miata (also tuned on speed density) gets pretty wonky 3000ft above where I live without closed loop correction.

Regarding that screenshot - does this ECU not interpolate? Why in the world are there so many cells?! I thought 16x16 on my Miata was plenty...
So do you drive around with your laptop and the auto-tune box feeds information to it? Or does it somehow update the table in the ECU on-the-fly?

Also, vcyclenut - do you keep a VIN log of the bikes you've tuned? Mine has definitely been tuned already, but I'm not sure what was done to it (it starts in A mode).
 

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your talking car tuning, total different animal

the o2 sensor on the fz is purely emissions and only active at lower rpm and smaller throttle openings, your riding around in open loop now 90% of the time and the o2 sensor is messing up the throttle while its active the other 10%

the bike has a temp sensor and pressure sensor to shift the fuel maps around, it works very well

the active tune, tunes on the fly (true closed loop) and will allow you to go back and apply the changes to the base map , lol no laptop on the bike all stored in the ecu

not by vin, if I tuned it it has my signature , a number and a date.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not sure how I feel driving around open-loop all the time. Are these bikes tuned with speed density? I don't see anything referencing a mass air flow meter anywhere. The fueling on my Miata (also tuned on speed density) gets pretty wonky 3000ft above where I live without closed loop correction.

Regarding that screenshot - does this ECU not interpolate? Why in the world are there so many cells?! I thought 16x16 on my Miata was plenty...
So do you drive around with your laptop and the auto-tune box feeds information to it? Or does it somehow update the table in the ECU on-the-fly?

Also, vcyclenut - do you keep a VIN log of the bikes you've tuned? Mine has definitely been tuned already, but I'm not sure what was done to it (it starts in A mode).
You can actually choose whether you want the activetune running open loop or closed loop based on preference in the software. Some may want the activetune o2 sensor to just record data which can than be applied to the fuel mapping. The data that is recorded from the activetune is only stored as long as the bike is on. If you're changing the fuel maps with recorded data you need to keep the key in the ignition in the "ON" position. Because of this it's important to have a spare key to remove the seat if you've installed the FTECU harness under the seat. Once you have plugged in the harness and opened the software, updating the fuel maps just take a few clicks taking the recorded data and applying it to the current maps. Take note that the changes it makes to the fueling is based off whatever target AFR you set for the activetune.
 

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Crazy that it's cheaper to buy a standalone (microsquirt) than the tools to tune the stock ECU. Then you get auto-tune and proper closed loop fueling.
Thanks for the info - I'll stop buggering up your thread now :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Crazy that it's cheaper to buy a standalone (microsquirt) than the tools to tune the stock ECU. Then you get auto-tune and proper closed loop fueling.
Thanks for the info - I'll stop buggering up your thread now :)
You're not buggering anything up, hopefully the info in this thread will give some more owners the confidence to tune their own bikes (sorry vcyclenut) lol
 

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This is one thing I miss about having my Street Triple R. Open up TuneECU (free software), and plug laptop into the bike. Flash tunes can be downloaded and modified.

I think once funds allow it and I get an exhaust, I'll just pay the guys at Yamaha $500 to get a custom dyno tune then leave it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is one thing I miss about having my Street Triple R. Open up TuneECU (free software), and plug laptop into the bike. Flash tunes can be downloaded and modified.

I think once funds allow it and I get an exhaust, I'll just pay the guys at Yamaha $500 to get a custom dyno tune then leave it.
Why pay Yamaha $500 for a custom tune when you could send your ecu to Vcyclenut and have it reflashed to your preferences with a nearly perfect tune for less than half the cost?
 

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Why pay Yamaha $500 for a custom tune when you could send your ecu to Vcyclenut and have it reflashed to your preferences with a nearly perfect tune for less than half the cost?
With the exchange rate it works out roughly the same price. Difference would be having to send my ECU overseas and have no bike for a week or two (it's my only mode of transport).

Where as I can take the bike into Yamaha and have them do it all in a day.

I was looking at the $250 USD ($365 AUD) flash from @vcyclenut and I noticed the list of things says "Option to start in A mode". Mine always starts in whatever mode I choose (currently A mode), so is this something different?

Also, I will have to get a code reader to clear the CE light on the dash too.
 

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With the exchange rate it works out roughly the same price. Difference would be having to send my ECU overseas and have no bike for a week or two (it's my only mode of transport).

Where as I can take the bike into Yamaha and have them do it all in a day.

I was looking at the $250 USD ($365 AUD) flash from @vcyclenut and I noticed the list of things says "Option to start in A mode". Mine always starts in whatever mode I choose (currently A mode), so is this something different?

Also, I will have to get a code reader to clear the CE light on the dash too.
its an option but I always leave the 17+ to start in last mode shut off in as forcing it to start in 1 mode seems a step backwards to me
 

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its an option but I always leave the 17+ to start in last mode shut off in as forcing it to start in 1 mode seems a step backwards to me
That makes sense. 😊 Have you shipped an ECU to Australia before? Wondering what the shipping costs would be.

I saw you do a zero downtime/ECU swap. With that you send me a flashed ECU and I send you my new one off my bike, correct?

I'm just thinking of downtime if I had to send my ECU first. 😬
 

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That makes sense. 😊 Have you shipped an ECU to Australia before? Wondering what the shipping costs would be.

I saw you do a zero downtime/ECU swap. With that you send me a flashed ECU and I send you my new one off my bike, correct?

I'm just thinking of downtime if I had to send my ECU first. 😬
I have its about $45. I do but you have a different part number ecu then us americans and I don't have your ecu type in stock to ship to you.

yes it could take a few weeks

have you talked to kevtx , he is on this forum and does great work and is in Australia
 

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I have its about $45. I do but you have a different part number ecu then us americans and I don't have your ecu type in stock to ship to you.

yes it could take a few weeks

have you talked to kevtx , he is on this forum and does great work and is in Australia
Shipping isn't too bad actually.

Ah right, I guess that could make it a little trickier being a different ECU type, haha.

Might check out forums and see what he says, thank you. 😊
 
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