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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
DYI I found on how to make a fork spring compression tool.

If you plan on working on your forks then a fork spring compressor makes the job a little easier. Instead on paying nearly $50 its quick and easy to make your own compressor. With stock springs I could compress my forks by hand but after upgrading to stiffer springs it was not possible.

Supplies needed (less than $5 at Lowe's)

1. 2 1/2" or 3" PVC coupler
2. 3/8" threaded rod 12" long
3. 4 nuts to fit 3/8" rod
4. Motorcycle tie down

Next cut the threaded rod in half to make 2 6" rods. You need to form a point on one end of each of the rods. Use a grinder for this. Now using a 3/8" drill bit drill a hole through both sides of the PVC coupler. Place a rod through each hole with nuts on both sides to keep the rod from moving. On most forks there is a plastic spacer above the spring with 2 holes in it. This is where the pointed ends of the compressor fit. Make sure the rods are tight against the holes. Now you can press down (wear gloves) on the outer rods to compress the spring while another person places a wrench on the damper to help remove the fork cap.

Removing or installing the cap can be a one person job if you have a vise mounted to a bench. Place the fork in the vise. Place the spring compressor on the fork. You will need a tie-down looped under the vise with each end hooked over the PVC coupler and the threaded rod. Make sure the ends of the tie-down are over the threaded rod from opposite sides. Now start pulling on the tie-down strap and it will begin to compress the fork. I used one hand to pull the strap and the other to pull down on the spring compressor. It took a little time to get it right on the first fork but the second one was easy.

************

I plan making one on Sunday and will have pictures as soon as I finish.
 

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Ah... the spring have that much preload that its hard to swap the springs. It was a piece of cake on the FZ6R.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Marthy, I am not sure how much tension they have, the motocross forks were easy without a tool, but I always like to have tools for any job at hand.
 

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I've been waiting for a fork thread! Question: How do you tell if your forks or steering is messed up and not just your handlebars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I've been waiting for a fork thread! Question: How do you tell if your forks or steering is messed up and not just your handlebars?
In the old days we used a micrometer and a lathe to determine if a fork tube was bent. That method required a complete disassembly of the fork tubes. It is the only sure way to know. We used a drill press with a special collar to bend the tubes. Now tubes are much cheaper to come by, which would negate the press because it is labor intensive. Sometimes forks are just bound up in the triple clamps and can be loosened and twisted back inline.

Disclaimer: When I was a youth, I worked part time in the service department of the shop that I raced motocross for to offset the sponsorship arrangement they had with me.
 

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Procedure for removing the springs from Traxxion Dynamics.

Fork Spring Kit Install
In the link they show the fork tube going into a vice to hold it... NO NO NO!!!
It's OK to put the axle block into a vice (and tighten lightly) but never the tube itself - they are so thin any amount of clamping will distort the tube.
The axle block is the part the axle goes thru - don't put any other section into a vice.

If you have to hold the tube, put it back into the triple clamp and tighten only to the torque specified - or put the top nut back into the tube and hold the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In the link they show the fork tube going into a vice to hold it... NO NO NO!!!
It's OK to put the axle block into a vice (and tighten lightly) but never the tube itself - they are so thin any amount of clamping will distort the tube.
The axle block is the part the axle goes thru - don't put any other section into a vice.

If you have to hold the tube, put it back into the triple clamp and tighten only to the torque specified - or put the top nut back into the tube and hold the nut.
I put mine in a vice with the jaws and a rag only tight enough to hold it level with a chair underneath to bridge the gap to the floor. I have done it 100 times.
 

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Hey Mate,

I try to swap my springs last nigth and figure out pretty quick it wasn't going to be as easy as my FZ6R. Now I get why you need a compression tool! LOL I contact the bike shop here but they don't have time to do it before the holidays so that leave me one option...

I guess I'll make one too. Thanks...
 

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In the link they show the fork tube going into a vice to hold it... NO NO NO!!!
It's OK to put the axle block into a vice (and tighten lightly) but never the tube itself - they are so thin any amount of clamping will distort the tube.
The axle block is the part the axle goes thru - don't put any other section into a vice.

If you have to hold the tube, put it back into the triple clamp and tighten only to the torque specified - or put the top nut back into the tube and hold the nut.
I put mine in a vice with the jaws and a rag only tight enough to hold it level with a chair underneath to bridge the gap to the floor. I have done it 100 times.
Clamping onto the tube is a commonly accepted method. I literally can't tell you how many forks I've clamped. The key is having a good soft jaw setup - you want something that either has a suitable cylindrical clamp or a triangular v block..and definitely aluminum. Most forks that come our way are not on a bike, so there is no way to loosen the fork cap without holding the tube. The soft jaw clamps also make cartridge and fork seal disassembly MUCH easier. You can clamp the axle block, but it's tough to keep the fork from rotating.
 

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My diy compression tool....no vice needed for spring change :booty:

I tried it without a compressor like my dirt bikes- ummm NO GO!
I had to make a tool

IMAG1416_zps6134520d.jpg
 
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