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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

I reached the 500KM milestone on my FZ09 today. I thought since it was a nice day I would change the oil. I am a firm believer in getting those break in particles out very quickly. 1000KM or 600M to me seems too long without and oil change.

Knowing that I will be chaning the oil in another 500KM I put in some Dino. I used a Bosche 3300 filter from Walmart, and Castrol 10W-40 MCO. Let me be clear - I would never use this in my 09 for an extended period of time. I'm using it for the break in period.

My thinking is at 1000KM I will switch the bike to full synthetic, more than likey Amsoil. I've been doing lots of research and it sounds like running Dino for the break in period was the case, 25 years ago. What do you guys think? When do you plan on changing to Synthetic? Or Semi Synthetic?

Also - a pet peave already the oil drain bolt is so low to the ground it is nearly impossible to fit a drain pan under the bike! Arghhh.
 
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I did my first oil change at approx. 21 miles. The second one is happening this week, at 600 miles. The 600 mile oil change will be with Mobil 1 15W-50 and a Yamaha oil filter. The 20-600 mile oil was dino oil....just for my break in stuff. I didn't have an issue with the oil pan fitting under there with the bike on the side stand.....my oil pan must be a little shorter than yours.
 
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I'll have to get a shorter oil pan for sure.
Can't beat changing the oil on a naked bike! Compared to my YZR600R this is a breeze!
 
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Yea, I get to change oil on three different 600RRs and an ST1300.........naked bikes rock when it comes to oil and filter changes.
 

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Hi Vern,

On this forum, I've seen several references to the mototuneusa break-in recommendations. I had gotten the impression that many of the more experienced members believed in his method. Did I get the wrong impression? Part of his recommendations are to avoid using synthetic oil until you've done "2 full days of racing" or "1,500 miles of street riding/driving". Do you disagree with that? Why switch to synthetic so soon (@ 600 miles)? This is my first new bike so I'd like to learn how to do it the right way. Obviously, the way that you use your FZ-09 is dramatically different than mine!

I appreciate any & all wisdom shared with me!

-Brian-
 

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Brian I'm going to use whatever the book recommends for the bike if it says dino oil that's what I'm going to go with I may look for a quality oil filter about I just can't see spending the extra money for oil that you just going to leave in there longer. Yes there are advantages to synthetic oil but I figure Yamaha knows what they're doing I'm sure they ran the tests.
 

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My research indicates a lot of the myths about break in procedures are outdated. Machining tolerances have improved greatly over the last decade. The seating of valves and rings was a big issue on high tolerance air cooled engines in the late 70's and early 80's. The tolerances on today's liquid cooled four strokes are much tighter (hence why most four strokes don't burn oil). I have heard that Yamaha breaks their engines in at the factory, before installing in the frame. Think of the financial risk to Yamaha to assume that the end user will follow the break in procedure correctly. How could Yamaha prove an improper break in for a warranty claim (valve seats or blow by). The risk to too large and they hedge it right at the factory.

I do believe the truth is in the middle somewhere hence why I will run Dino oil in my bike until 600 miles before switching to a full synthetic. I had my flashlight out today looking in the drain pan. I could not see any metal particles or flakes from the first 200 miles of operation.

I also believe that synthetic oil is heavily marketed, and priced at a point which gives nothing but piece of mind. 'I'm running synthetic so I am protecting my investment'. I've done lots of engine work on small engines (motorcycle, snowmobile, ATV, snowblower, you name it) that have used Dino oil their entire lives with no visible wear. I do admit that operating in extreme tempertures - does yield a benefit with Synthetic oil. Synthetic oil was a big deal during the Russian front in WW2 when nothing would start when your life depended on it.

Most riders will write the bike off, sell it or put it in a museum far before any difference can be noticed (Dino Vs. Synthetic). Some riders claim smoother operation, or lower operating tempertures, if that is how you measure your return on investment sure it is worth it, but if you change your Dino often, the engine will yield the same results.

IMO.
 

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I never switch to synthetic (Yamalube ester two times during first 1200) until I know that the engine is absolutely broken in using mototuneusa break-in recommendations, say 1200 miles, then I go with the following:

Maxima’s Synthetic Blend4 is a blend of ester-based synthetic and petroleum base stocks featuring advanced technology. This special high temperature formula protects critical engine components, reduces wear, friction, temperature, oil consumption and extends drain intervals. The use of new anti-shear additives assures viscosity stability for motorcycle 4-cycle engines with integrated transmissions. This formula also has extra anti-scuff additives to handle extreme loads and peak temperatures.

Ester Based Synthetic
Reduces friction & engine temperatures
Viscosity Stable
Anti-wear & Anti-scuff additives
All weather formula
Easy starts
Reduces engine wear
Improves fuel economy
Smoother transmission shifting
Superior engine cleanliness
Extends drain intervals
Formulated for “Wet” clutches
Exceeds JASO-MA M/C 4T Specs
Exceeds API SG/CC Specs

I have tried a bunch of stuff, Motul, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Pro Honda HP4, etc, Maxima blend is my favorite so far.
 

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I agree with the thought process that you run dino (mineral based oil) until the motor is fully broken in. After that, it's your choice. I'd guess triplethreat has reason to believe that his motor is ready for Synth. When is an engine fully broken in? When all the clearances are in spec. How long it takes will depend on how the motor is run in. What's the best way? That debate will never be over... I usually follow the manufacturer's recommendation (because, you know, they did the R&D) and add a bit of my own. I keep an eye on the oil color/translucency and change it if I see something I don't like. During my initial break in I went for a ride at about 500kms and ended up getting caught in traffic. When I got back with 661 kms on the bike the oil was nearly opaque... time to change! As with all things YMMV
 

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Manufacturers recommendations, please, I worked for BMW and Mercedes-Benz when they told people to use Quaker State. I have owner's manuals written by 12 year old Japanese girls. The engineers do not write the manuals, the lawyers do, and they have not been updated in over 40 years as to the break-in procedures, trust me, that is how long I have been riding them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think of synthetic oil like the newest workout supplement - claiming unbelievable results when in reality it's full of sugar and ground up chinese newspapers bottled in someones basement.
 

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I've had big improvements in shift quality/quietness after switching to synthetic oil on a lot of bikes. On the 09 I noticed a big reduction in the nasty clunk in the drivetrain with on/off throttle transitions. I like to wait to 1000 to 1200 miles, to feel sure the rings have seated completely, before switching.
 

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Hi Vern,

On this forum, I've seen several references to the mototuneusa break-in recommendations. I had gotten the impression that many of the more experienced members believed in his method. Did I get the wrong impression? Part of his recommendations are to avoid using synthetic oil until you've done "2 full days of racing" or "1,500 miles of street riding/driving". Do you disagree with that? Why switch to synthetic so soon (@ 600 miles)? This is my first new bike so I'd like to learn how to do it the right way. Obviously, the way that you use your FZ-09 is dramatically different than mine!

I appreciate any & all wisdom shared with me!

-Brian-
Brian, thanks for asking about that. At 600 miles on my bike, I can safely say that it has been ridden in such a manner that it is equivalent to a couple of days on the track.....maybe harder. I really don't feel that there is anymore "break in" to be done to the motor, valve train, etc. .....thus the switch to the Mobil 1 syn. for me.
 
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Manufacturers recommendations, please, I worked for BMW and Mercedes-Benz when they told people to use Quaker State. I have owner's manuals written by 12 year old Japanese girls. The engineers do not write the manuals, the lawyers do, and they have not been updated in over 40 years as to the break-in procedures, trust me, that is how long I have been riding them.
That made me LOL!
 
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Manufacturers recommendations, please, I worked for BMW and Mercedes-Benz when they told people to use Quaker State. I have owner's manuals written by 12 year old Japanese girls. The engineers do not write the manuals, the lawyers do, and they have not been updated in over 40 years as to the break-in procedures, trust me, that is how long I have been riding them.
Point taken!
 

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I use Shell Rotella T6 oil in bikes. It's cheap and it works.
 

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I use Shell Rotella T6 oil in bikes. It's cheap and it works.


You have to be careful with that. The Yamaha owner's manual specifically prohibits oil that is made for diesel engines!
 
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Trying to make my point and be funny at the same time. The manufacturer only cares about warranty claims concerning break-in; oil blowby because of unseated rings is always within tolerance as far as the manufacturer states. They will not fix it. They recommend easy break-in for the masses. They can't tell people to go out there and rev and decelerate because some pinhead will get killed doing it.

I have always been leary of Mobil 1 because of wet clutches. I know what the label says on the bike specific bottle, but I still like to use bike specific oils because I feel their chemical research starts with bikes. This topic always gets tons of opinions on all forums.
 
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