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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Finally ready for the first oil change. Where would you recommend to go?
I know of Vey's, South Bay motors, Fun Bike center.

Anyone had good/bad experience with them? and what should be a good price for first oil change+inspection?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wish. don't have the space, the tools or the experience.

I do have the service manual
 

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Well many members will tell you that you need to be the one to change your oil. Personally I change mine, because it is super easy and super expensive to pay someone else to do it. That being said, at least you have the wherewithal to admit your shortcomings and leave it to another, more qualified.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First 600mi oil change in San Diego - cost & a recommended place?

Well many members will tell you that you need to be the one to change your oil. Personally I change mine, because it is super easy and super expensive to pay someone else to do it. That being said, at least you have the wherewithal to admit your shortcomings and leave it to another, more qualified.
I would be more than happy to learn but until then I still need to have someone change the oil
 

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Be sure to check your chain slack too. . .factory spec is too tight!

I only say this because I wish I caught it sooner than at 3200 miles!

I would be more than happy to learn but until then I still need to have someone change the oil
 

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Hi guys,

Finally ready for the first oil change. Where would you recommend to go?
I know of Vey's, South Bay motors, Fun Bike center.

Anyone had good/bad experience with them? and what should be a good price for first oil change+inspection?

Thanks
What part of town are you in ?

I'm near Downtown and could knock it out in a few minutes.
 

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I always go to the mid range or higher side of the chain slack specs, and yes the 09 does have a very tight setting for the low end at just 5.0-15.0mm (0.20-0.59 in)

If there are revised numbers, I would be interested to see them. I have notice the numbers are the same in the FZ-09 and MT-09 owners manuals, as well as the service manual.

These two notices are shown in the service manual.

NOTICE
A drive chain that is too tight will overload
the engine and other vital parts, and one that
is too loose can skip and damage the swingarm
or cause an accident. Therefore, keep
the drive chain slack within the specified limits.

NOTICE
Improper drive chain slack will overload the
engine as well as other vital parts of the motorcycle
and can lead to chain slippage or
breakage. If the drive chain slack is more
than 25.0 mm (0.98 in), the chain can damage
the frame, swingarm, and other parts. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the drive
chain slack within the specified limits.
 

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There's a response to a reader question about the FZ-09's specified slack in the April 2015 issue of Motorcyclist Magazine. According to their tests it's too tight and leaves no play when suspension is fully compressed. Read it this morning and decided to jump on the forums. On one of the threads here (started in 2013 I think) someone discovered the same--that if you adjust the chain to 5-15mm when on side stand it leaves almost no play when rear suspension is fully compressed. To test he put the chain at its tightest point (made possible because he was also doing a shock replacement). From there he adjusted it to 10mm. Then when put the bike down on side stand play was about 30mm. From there he makes the recommendation to aim for 30mm.

I am inclined to agree. I adjusted my chain to factory spec the other day (5-15mm) and it didn't feel right at all and was whining like crazy!


I always go to the mid range or higher side of the chain slack specs, and yes the 09 does have a very tight setting for the low end at just 5.0-15.0mm (0.20-0.59 in)

If there are revised numbers, I would be interested to see them. I have notice the numbers are the same in the FZ-09 and MT-09 owners manuals, as well as the service manual.

These two notices are shown in the service manual.

NOTICE
A drive chain that is too tight will overload
the engine and other vital parts, and one that
is too loose can skip and damage the swingarm
or cause an accident. Therefore, keep
the drive chain slack within the specified limits.

NOTICE
Improper drive chain slack will overload the
engine as well as other vital parts of the motorcycle
and can lead to chain slippage or
breakage. If the drive chain slack is more
than 25.0 mm (0.98 in), the chain can damage
the frame, swingarm, and other parts. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the drive
chain slack within the specified limits.
 

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changing the oil on the FZ09 is easier and quicker than a car.

You need no more space than the space you have to park the bike and you need one socket to remove the drain plug, a drain pan and maybe a filter wrench.

There are many youtube videos showing you how to do it.

If you don't have the tools, I suggest you buy them instead of paying someone to change the oil for you.

Most shops are about $60-75 for an oil change.

Oil is about $10, oil filter is about $5-6

That leaves about $45-60 for tools. Way more than is necessary.

Drain pan is about $2 at any Walmart, Walmart will have the oil as well (not to start an oil thread but a decent oil is the Shell Rotella, regular or synthetic) the oil filter you can also buy at Walmart as they usually have a section of motorcycle oil filters.

Tools you can buy at walmart but their tools are junk so buy something a little better like a set of Craftsman metric combination end wrenches ($20 on sale) and a Craftsman basic 3/8" drive metric socket set (about $30 on sale).

I suggest a adjustable type filter wrench such as this one as it fits almost any oil filter:
Sears.com

or a strap type like this:
Strap Filter Wrench - Sheridan Marine you can find these in most autoparts store and I think Craftsman makes one as well but I found this one quicker.

In the end, you will have changed your own oil AND have tools to do more stuff in the future and probably spent a lot less $ and a lot less time and no need to drop the bike off and then return some time later to pick it up...
 

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There's a response to a reader question about the FZ-09's specified slack in the April 2015 issue of Motorcyclist Magazine. According to their tests it's too tight and leaves no play when suspension is fully compressed. Read it this morning and decided to jump on the forums. On one of the threads here (started in 2013 I think) someone discovered the same--that if you adjust the chain to 5-15mm when on side stand it leaves almost no play when rear suspension is fully compressed. To test he put the chain at its tightest point (made possible because he was also doing a shock replacement). From there he adjusted it to 10mm. Then when put the bike down on side stand play was about 30mm. From there he makes the recommendation to aim for 30mm.

I am inclined to agree. I adjusted my chain to factory spec the other day (5-15mm) and it didn't feel right at all and was whining like crazy!
Thanks for the response, it is weird that Yamaha has printed the same wrong information in so many of their own manuals? The problem with Copy & Paste on the old computer, lol.

You'd think they would issue a revision for all the owners manuals out there. I wonder how many warranty repairs it has cost them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
What part of town are you in ?

I'm near Downtown and could knock it out in a few minutes.
Thanks for the offer! I'm in North Park, I'll PM you.
Also let me know your desired form of payment - cash, food or beer.

There's 10% off at Cycle Gear tomorrow, I can stop there or at Costco, and pick up oil and a filter. What brand would you recommend?
I'm thinking full synthetic, the service manual recommends YAMALUBE, 10W-50?

changing the oil on the FZ09 is easier and quicker than a car.

You need no more space than the space you have to park the bike and you need one socket to remove the drain plug, a drain pan and maybe a filter wrench.

There are many youtube videos showing you how to do it.

If you don't have the tools, I suggest you buy them instead of paying someone to change the oil for you.

Most shops are about $60-75 for an oil change.

Oil is about $10, oil filter is about $5-6

That leaves about $45-60 for tools. Way more than is necessary.

Drain pan is about $2 at any Walmart, Walmart will have the oil as well (not to start an oil thread but a decent oil is the Shell Rotella, regular or synthetic) the oil filter you can also buy at Walmart as they usually have a section of motorcycle oil filters.

Tools you can buy at walmart but their tools are junk so buy something a little better like a set of Craftsman metric combination end wrenches ($20 on sale) and a Craftsman basic 3/8" drive metric socket set (about $30 on sale).

I suggest a adjustable type filter wrench such as this one as it fits almost any oil filter:
Sears.com

or a strap type like this:
Strap Filter Wrench - Sheridan Marine you can find these in most autoparts store and I think Craftsman makes one as well but I found this one quicker.

In the end, you will have changed your own oil AND have tools to do more stuff in the future and probably spent a lot less $ and a lot less time and no need to drop the bike off and then return some time later to pick it up...
I appreciate the shopping list, I will definitely look into that. My skill set includes building software, fixing computers and doing a cartwheel but changing oil is still not in there.

In case of a zombie apocalypse, you should know a few things. Engine maintenance, some engine repair, how to replace brakes, distill alcohol, reload ammunition...

Unless you want to sit at camp with the ladies
I got the ammo part covered for M16, a Machine Gun and a handgun. I'm gonna have to work on the rest.

P.S.
I would definitely enjoy sitting camp with the ladies as well
 

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Not sure Costco carries motorcycle oil. I went Yamalube the first two oil changes...on my next one I'll switch to synthetic.

I can't comment on dealerships around there but if you take it to one, plan to spend around $200. Not only do they change the oil, they claim to sync the throttle bodies...my bike seemed to run smoother after.
 

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To answer your other questions, I can give my experience and say stay away from south bay motorsports. their service dept has screwed up my simple jobs every. single. time.

The only Yamaha place in SD worth going to is North County Yamaha. Also Lach is a good moto mechanic near sports arena.
 

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Thanks for the offer! I'm in North Park, I'll PM you.
Also let me know your desired form of payment - cash, food or beer.

There's 10% off at Cycle Gear tomorrow, I can stop there or at Costco, and pick up oil and a filter.

What brand would you recommend?

I'm thinking full synthetic, the service manual recommends YAMALUBE, 10W-50?
/QUOTE]

From Napa or Auto Zone, Castrol 20 - 50 GTX for those of the opinion that synthetic should wait for the 2000 mile interval.

For Synthetic, I've used Castrol 20 -50 Syntec, or Royal Purple.
 

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Listin your missing out on half the fun of owning this motorcycle.
Learning how to fix and do your own mods. Is more satisfying than you
Can imagine, plus it saves you lots money. I'll be honest I've never did anything
more than change the oil. Now with the help from the people on this site lv done my
Frame sliders, exahst, lights,o2 sensor, levers, ecu, flyscreen I think you get drift.
Give it shot I KNOW YOU WILL LIKE YOUR BIKE BETTER. Sitting around the camp fire
At least you can say I do know how to follow instructions!
 

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