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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,
been used to builds with my previous cars, all of them were VW's.
Last project took me 2 and half years to get it usable on the street, it was all custom, homemade and supercharged.

Must say I'm not going that kind of long route with my bike, riding season is too short to miss any of it.
Here in QC Canada, season is almost done now, with temps around 50 in the afternoon, there's only a few days left , november will bring snow, december and january will bring effing cold weather down to -40 sometimes...
Usual season starts in early or late april depending on how fast spring shows up.

So less talking, this is my bike right now
2014-10-27 19.28.49-2.jpg

Bike bought in June, did only around 1500 miles on it, but what an incredible machine, I love it.
I don't plan spending big money on that bike, since it's so much fun even stock, just want to mod it until I'm happy with it.

Mods are for now
0$ tail mod, not really clean but free
led blinkers with blinker genie
Pro taper EVO rm low
Mad hornet shortys
Puig sport flyscreen
Chinese tomoc mirrors
Rear zx10 shock, stock spring
90 fork springs with 10w, dropped 5mm on the triple tee
Painted stock exhaust cover


Plans are
Doing something with the golden forks, wrapping shit with gold color doesn't fool me lol, what's under don't deserve gold at all.
Some exhaust, really like the Hindle, but could/will be a pain to get a proper tune from a reflash only, so carbon akrapovic seems a more obvious choice, power and money wise.
Paint some parts to become a little more unique.
Mono seat, passenger pegs removal.

Pics and how I did the seat on my next post, just be patient.
Feel free to comment if you want.
 

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I like your idea for DIY on the seat.

I also added memory foam that was about 1/2" thick that had a thin gel pad bonded to it. Before I laid on the foam I sculpted (hacked) a contour to the existing seat foam to dish it out a little for my butt to sit flatter in the saddle and remove the forward slope. I re-stretched the stock cover but I will eventually get a cover made at the local upholstery shop in town.

Post lot's of pics of how you do the pattern for the seat cover for those of us interested in the DIY project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Been long since last post, bike collected dust in the workshop.

Did some shopping early this month, parts are reaching my door one after another.

Not very unique but effective exhaust line
2015-03-09 18.38.42.jpg

Da loop
2015-03-14 13.40.52.jpg

Removed all to reach the Ecu, and did the block off plate job while at it, I removed the 0$ fender eliminator mod and replaced it with a tiny Ebay's FE, some license bolt led lights on the way.

2015-03-14 13.40.17.jpg

Ecu is been sent to Vcyclenut for Akra Flash and speed limiter removal, I tracked the package both ways and I must admit it was with some anxiety.
By now package is on his way back, have crossed the border twice and travelled almost all of his 3750 miles trip,
should be home by the end of the week.

I also ordered an o2 controller from kev, for a complete fuelling package, will be done for once and for all.

Another bunch of parts to put in the 'stock parts bin' add the stock exhaust on top of that.
Incredible how much parts are needed to get replaced, modified or removed from this bike to make it mine.
2015-03-14 13.50.05.jpg

I'm also working on some theorical stuff and calculations about the the velocity stack lenghts in the air box, I think I found something interesting, I'm not a fluid mechanic expert but someone must start doing some testing.
Results of my umble researches on later posts.

I still got plenty of time before riding season, tomorow with the kids and their cousins we do some sliding around the house with crazy carpets and snow tube, not even near from my first ride.

See you next time.
 

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First I want to say that I like the direction you are going with your bike. Nothing is quite as satisfying as making your own parts, even if they are just copies of what someone else sells (not saying that's what your doing, I however am super guilty of it). Putting your own mark on it just adds to the sense of accomplishment.

Second I just want to bring up messing with the air horns and my views on it, you can tell me to pack sand and it won't hurt my feelings and please don't take this as me trying the thread jack, I get a little carried away sometimes; Yamaha made those suckers that way for a reason and seeing as it's a brand new engine for them there is bound to be a real good reason for the varied length. That reason is based on Helmholtz work of air oscillations. If you're interested in checking out what that is check out this link ( Acoustics/Flow-induced Oscillations of a Helmholtz Resonator - Wikibooks, open books for an open world )

So what's happening in the air box is there are pulses of air from each cylinder; the intake valve opens, air rushes in, the valve shuts, and now that air that was moving at high speed into cylinder hits the back of the valve and sends a pressure and acoustic wave back into the "plenum" or air box. Well it just so happens that there is another set of valves about to open and when they do there is now the energy of that air, in the form of pressure and sound waves, that was going into the cylinder now stored in the bank of air that the air box has. The benefit of this is those waves help the air rush in to the cylinder when it can. Typically a cylinder will catch the anywhere from the 6th (if the dynamics of the engine have been really well sorted out) to the 10th wave. Things like the shape and volume of the air box, the length of the intake ports, and especially the volume of the header primaries play a huge part in how the engine can take advantage of these pressure waves. If everything is done right and all aspects of the intake and the exhaust manipulated correctly a naturally aspirated engine could actually register "boost" pressure in the cylinder when the intake valve shuts.
What I've observed and my given knowlage on the subjust, there is a very good reason for the varied lengths of the air horns. First, you might have noticed this yourself, but the engine in the 09 is a CP3 which is short for Cross Plane 3 cylinder. I'm sure plenty of you know what that means but if you don't just watch the first bit of this video
having a staggered firing means that the pulses are timed differently. Second if you look at the header you'll notice that the runners are different lengths, and that intake and exhaust runners are paired up, a the cylinder that has the longest air horn also has the shortest exhaust runner, again Yamaha engineers putting the full extent of Helmholtz to use. The Yamaha guys take it even further down stream and up stream, in the stock lead box that is the muffler there are a series of chambers and tubes that connect them in different ways, this manipulates the pulse waves of the exhaust to help the intake draw more air in to the cylinder. At the point of where the muffler is working, as far as I can figure, the muffler turns into an aid of the header tubes, which in effect increase draw that the cylinder has when the valve opens. This is why camshafts with overlap make power, the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time and the pressure waves can be used more effectively. On the intake side, there are small pockets that dead end and seem to do nothing, but are there to help catch and amplify the pulse of the intake system. Oh and then there is that tube that goes down in front of the air filter, that's just there to keep birds from flying in right? Wrong, it's there to make a pulse at a given time. You'll see some guys who drill holes in the sides of it to "allow more air in" unfortunately that's not how gas flow dynamics work. When air gets to the the end of a tube that it's been traveling down there a sort of mushroom cloud of pressure that forms, this mushroom cloud will expand and collapse creating acoustic waves that get used later in the engine cycle. If you want to this of it this way, you wouldn't drill holes your exhaust, it will just make the engine louder and probably make it run like crap.

In short, unless you are an engine disigner and have the schooling to do the proper equations and know how to use the figures you get, you'll be better off spending your time removing weight from the bike if going faster is your goal. And if anyone is interested in more information please feel free to start a new thread with this post quoted and I'll try to explain what I can to the best of my abilities. I'm not an engineer nor do I build high performance engines but I work with the people who are and have been doing this their whole life.
 

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First I want to say that I like the direction you are going with your bike. Nothing is quite as satisfying as making your own parts, even if they are just copies of what someone else sells (not saying that's what your doing, I however am super guilty of it). Putting your own mark on it just adds to the sense of accomplishment.

Second I just want to bring up messing with the air horns and my views on it, you can tell me to pack sand and it won't hurt my feelings and please don't take this as me trying the thread jack, I get a little carried away sometimes; Yamaha made those suckers that way for a reason and seeing as it's a brand new engine for them there is bound to be a real good reason for the varied length. That reason is based on Helmholtz work of air oscillations. If you're interested in checking out what that is check out this link ( Acoustics/Flow-induced Oscillations of a Helmholtz Resonator - Wikibooks, open books for an open world )

So what's happening in the air box is there are pulses of air from each cylinder; the intake valve opens, air rushes in, the valve shuts, and now that air that was moving at high speed into cylinder hits the back of the valve and sends a pressure and acoustic wave back into the "plenum" or air box. Well it just so happens that there is another set of valves about to open and when they do there is now the energy of that air, in the form of pressure and sound waves, that was going into the cylinder now stored in the bank of air that the air box has. The benefit of this is those waves help the air rush in to the cylinder when it can. Typically a cylinder will catch the anywhere from the 6th (if the dynamics of the engine have been really well sorted out) to the 10th wave. Things like the shape and volume of the air box, the length of the intake ports, and especially the volume of the header primaries play a huge part in how the engine can take advantage of these pressure waves. If everything is done right and all aspects of the intake and the exhaust manipulated correctly a naturally aspirated engine could actually register "boost" pressure in the cylinder when the intake valve shuts.
What I've observed and my given knowlage on the subjust, there is a very good reason for the varied lengths of the air horns. First, you might have noticed this yourself, but the engine in the 09 is a CP3 which is short for Cross Plane 3 cylinder. I'm sure plenty of you know what that means but if you don't just watch the first bit of this video
having a staggered firing means that the pulses are timed differently. Second if you look at the header you'll notice that the runners are different lengths, and that intake and exhaust runners are paired up, a the cylinder that has the longest air horn also has the shortest exhaust runner, again Yamaha engineers putting the full extent of Helmholtz to use. The Yamaha guys take it even further down stream and up stream, in the stock lead box that is the muffler there are a series of chambers and tubes that connect them in different ways, this manipulates the pulse waves of the exhaust to help the intake draw more air in to the cylinder. At the point of where the muffler is working, as far as I can figure, the muffler turns into an aid of the header tubes, which in effect increase draw that the cylinder has when the valve opens. This is why camshafts with overlap make power, the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time and the pressure waves can be used more effectively. On the intake side, there are small pockets that dead end and seem to do nothing, but are there to help catch and amplify the pulse of the intake system. Oh and then there is that tube that goes down in front of the air filter, that's just there to keep birds from flying in right? Wrong, it's there to make a pulse at a given time. You'll see some guys who drill holes in the sides of it to "allow more air in" unfortunately that's not how gas flow dynamics work. When air gets to the the end of a tube that it's been traveling down there a sort of mushroom cloud of pressure that forms, this mushroom cloud will expand and collapse creating acoustic waves that get used later in the engine cycle. If you want to this of it this way, you wouldn't drill holes your exhaust, it will just make the engine louder and probably make it run like crap.

In short, unless you are an engine disigner and have the schooling to do the proper equations and know how to use the figures you get, you'll be better off spending your time removing weight from the bike if going faster is your goal. And if anyone is interested in more information please feel free to start a new thread with this post quoted and I'll try to explain what I can to the best of my abilities. I'm not an engineer nor do I build high performance engines but I work with the people who are and have been doing this their whole life.
I may have just fallen in love...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First of all, I'm not saying or thinking that I'm better than Yamaha's engineers, I studied in mechanical engineering myself but long story short, timing was pretty bad for me for a come back to school at 30 YO and financial issues forced me after half way through to go back to work full-time.
That is sad for sure, but I'll put that in the 'experience bag'.

That said, thanks for your input Kira, if debating leads to something useful, it'll always be welcome.
Knowing that a big brain or even many big brains did the airbox job isn't enough to stop me from trying to get something of this box, stubborn kind of guy with some time to waste. ;)
I'm aware of harmonic pulses, didn't do any calculations yet, I used a basic intake runner length calculator to check some options about velocity stacks.
At very least it showed me why and how staggered runner lengths is used to flatten the torque curve

You're right about stock primaries length VS runners length, primaries are around 2 inches longer to each other and runners are 1 inch, around 11-10-12 inches respectively.
Akra's primaries don't follow the same pattern, cyl no2 and no3 are the same and cyl no1 is 2 inches longer, so I was thinking maybe there's something to do about it.

I was hoping (maybe I'm wrong you tell me) to play with 2nd 3th and 4th harmonic wave, based on your post, 6th to 10th wave sound to me useless to work with and at this point I should only work on the new header dynamics and do some trials and error based on that.

I've read that velocity stacks intalled on 05 R1 (just an example) was improvement over stock, 05 engineers were'nt perfect at this time, 9 years later chances are there still something to do about it.
For me just being able to move the power band around would be satisfying.
 

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Turns out, air horns are way more complicated than I thought!:cool:
 

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I was hoping (maybe I'm wrong you tell me) to play with 2nd 3th and 4th harmonic wave, based on your post, 6th to 10th wave sound to me useless to work with and at this point I should only work on the new header dynamics and do some trials and error based on that..
Yeah, I was wrong on that, after some research and talking to someone who actually knows the nitty gritty of pulse waves a really well sorted engine will catch the 3rd or 4th wave. When you're getting down close to catching that wave it will only be the acoustic wave, if you want to also get the dynamic wave you have to do some serious cat juggling. The other problem is that you do want to catch both the the acoustic and dynamic wave but to one you have to sacrifice the ability to catch the other. For the acoustic wave you want a short intake length, and for the dynamic wave you want a long intake length. The longer the intake length is, the more air there is bouncing back after the valves shut, more air equals more stored energy.

Formula one cars of old that rev out to 18-20,000 rpm can catch the 2nd acoustic and dynamic wave, but its only because of that engine speed that they can do it. The acoustic wave, being just that, travels at the speed of sound which is about 1,100 ft/sec on an average day at sea level. So to figure out roughly where the wave is you have to know how long the valve is open at a given rpm which can be figured out of you take the given rpm (say 10,000) divide that by 2 to get cam speed, then divide that by 4 (number of cycles the engine goes through), divide that by 60 to get how many times per second the valve opens, in this case about 10 times then divide that by the duration of the cam and you get close (I think) to how long the valve is open and subsequently how long it is closed. Once you know how long the valve is closed, the length of the intake tract, and the speed of sound at temperature and altitude you are at, you can figure out what wave you are close to; that's the easy part. For the dynamic wave you have to figure out the density, the rate of compression and wall speed of the air, plus the above mentioned calculations. The sad part is that even if you do all that work you can only hope for "ballpark" number seeing as most everything that goes into making an engine make power is all just theory. The equipment to actually find and differentiate the different waves doesn't even exist is the professional field.

Hopefully I don't discourage you from trying. By all means play with it, I mean that's what motorcycles are anyway, just a big toy ;)
 

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I'm interested in hearing your experience with shipping the ECU to and from the US. That's the only reason mine hasn't gone yet.
Keep us updated. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It went pretty good, here's the proof:

2015-03-20 21.17.47.jpg

Got it yesterday, sent it expedited Via Canada post for around 25 CAD, for custom purpose I sent it as ''Repair/warranty'' but could've checked ''Other'' and write ''modification/upgrade''.
It took around 5 working days to reach destination and 5 other to reach me so 2 weeks total, package was sent back with tracking number and marked as Gift.
From Ontario you'll probably save a few days.
Didn't have any custom fees or anything, but if any, your proof of shipping at the same place it came back from should be enough argument to win your point.

At this point I don't want to mess with a PC5 or Ejk and have to reajust until satisfaction, cost of dyno runs, plus speed limiter still there, and all options only unlocked with the reflash.
I Already did a lot of tuning with a standalone called Megasquirt I installed a few years ago on my VW project car, very time consuming.
I want to ride the bike the most I can.
 

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Thanks F-zee. I have a Hindle and EJK I haven't installed yet because it's still too cold. I've decided against a re flash due to shipping worries. I'll have to reconsider now. Let's us know your review once you get it tested!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Got the stock rear sets and akra's muffler bracket off for powder coating and did some progress on the seat.

Memory foam integrated
2015-03-22 13.48.55.jpg

Foward slope cancelled and rear seat shape test with some rebound foam, very dense material and good for a base layer but it's very hard to work with, I had to shape it layer by layer with a 1'' olfa cutter, after a few cuts your blade is useless.
2015-03-22 21.14.53.jpg

Here's the rough sculpted shape, I really like it, special thanks to AC's build thread for the foam sculpting idea.
I need to install the tail fairing parts to see how it blends with the bike.
2015-03-24 11.52.23.jpg

A 1'' super confy foam will be added on top of that, right now I'm working on the front part,
and the whole rear seat may be reshaped to compensate the added thickness.
I Hope to start work on the new skin somewhere this week.

Maybe next update in a few days.
 
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I like the seat. The passenger upper is more comfortable because she will go with the leghts more stretched.

I want to be this idea too but with a saddleman.

The idea in the pilot position is more comfortable for his balls hahaha if you want to use a lower handlebar the position change to sport (here the balls will have more contact with the seat if you mantain the original seat, for this upper the pilot position a less cms is a walkaround for the pain of balls jajaja).

Sorry my bad english

Greetings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well that was a lot of work, I had to reshape once again the base layer to accept the confy foam.
From my point of view the overall shape was kind of weird, see pic.

2015-03-28 10.23.17.jpg

I did the finishing work until final shape showed and I designed the skin, there's lot of 3D issues in this seat so many parts must be used to be able to wrap it around the seat without looses or major wrinckles.

2015-03-30 21.09.56.jpg

So there's how the pattern ended.

2015-03-31 13.27.56.jpg

Few hours later after sewing, corrections and all, I managed to have a final product to show, here it is.

2015-04-01 21.55.56.jpg

On the bike, it feels to me like it belongs there, I'm pretty happy with the final product exept for some wrinckles around the tank area, tail section is perfect and tight so for the second attempt in seat making I don't know how I could make it any better.

2015-04-01 15.21.08.jpg

Next project is started, just a teaser, I don't really want to talk about it yet, got a few things to check before the mod.

I'm waiting for my parts from the powdercoat guy, he's doing the stock rearsets in semi matte black, right now I'm looking for some way to protect the heelguards from being rubbed and scratched by my boots/shoes.
First I was thinking of scotchgard in clear but problem is it will be glossy over almost matte parts, next idea is to used matte black adhesive vinyl of some kind, it'll less eye catching.

What do you say, what should I do.

Will have to do a huge clean up on both bike and garage, there's foam dust and leftovers everywhere.
Next update in a few days.
 

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Seat looks great! You've done a top job on that front. As for protecting your heel guards... Maybe plasti dip? Have a look in the stationary section or office section for adhesive book covering. They're usually available in a non gloss finish (at least where I am anyway)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys.

So I had some spare time to work on my next mod, gauge cluster relocation, I made a prototype out of sheet metal.

2015-04-01 22.16.54.jpg 2015-04-02 15.49.30.jpg

It was something in my mind since last summer, yet I don't know if it's gonna work well, right now the bracket is holding on the 2 left side top scews, right under the puig windscreen bracket so in this form, (only two mounting point issue) it's very shaky.

There's no room for error, the windscreen is limiting the gauge cluster from moving up and even side to side, ign switch in the way right under and odd shaped cluster makes it very tight fit.

Next move would be to make a bracket going from one side to another mounting on all 4 screws, but not sure how it will look but could be worth the effort.
Maybe a nice flat spot could be used to put a gauge or a shiftlight or even a switch who knows.

I can now reach the ign switch easily, and now I have lot of room to mount my old but almost brand new gps.
I'll take my final decision about follow that route or stay oem once the second bracket will be done.

Stay tuned
 
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