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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If discovered, does the Stoltec re-flash void my warranty? I'd like to know before I send my ECU off, since I paid extra for an extended warranty... Also where is my ECU and how difficult is it to remove?
 

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from what i've read - yes it will - but the chances of yamaha discovering this is very slim - it's still a risk you'll have to consider.

Regarding ECU removal - read this thread http://www.fz09.org/forum/6-fz-09-general-discussion/1195-how-pull-gas-tank-ecu.html

I have to do this myself but i'm a bit nervous about pulling the tank and what not - I'm a mechanical novice.

Would be good if someone could post some step by step pics on how they did this to get the ECU out...
 

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Don't get too intimidated about pulling the tank, it's really easy.

I don't have pics but I just did this last weekend in about 15min. Remove the right and left side "air scoops", to do this there are two push pins per side on the interior. Once you find them use something to push directly in the center of the pin and it will pop loose. Remove the two pins per side, and then remove the small allen head bolt on the outside, there is one bolt per side. Then gently but firmly pull the cover off, there is a "prong" that fits inside a rubber grommet on the back side of the pieces, if you can squeeze your hand up underneath while pulling you can feel it and help pop it out. For me the clutch side was much much tighter and required some force to pop loose.

Once these are off, head to the front of the tank and do the same to remove the four push pins on the matte black plastic trim. Now just remove the seat and remove four bolts holding the tank, one on each side and two towards the rear of the tank, but don't remove the silver bracket. At the front of the tank the rubber edging needs to be unclipped from the plastic trim so you can lift the tank. Then lift the tank up a few inches and rest it on the bracket. Now you have room to undo the fuel line, electrical plug, and vent lines. Be prepared to get a small amount of gas out of the fuel line.

Once these are off, pull the tank straight up and set if somewhere safe!

The hardest part for me was removing the small vent lines since they were stuck pretty well to the tank, but you can use a small flat head screwdriver to help slide them down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
from what i've read - yes it will - but the chances of yamaha discovering this is very slim - it's still a risk you'll have to consider.

Regarding ECU removal - read this thread http://www.fz09.org/forum/6-fz-09-general-discussion/1195-how-pull-gas-tank-ecu.html

I have to do this myself but i'm a bit nervous about pulling the tank and what not - I'm a mechanical novice.

Would be good if someone could post some step by step pics on how they did this to get the ECU out...
I'll have to think this over, I paid extra for a 5 year warranty... I dont care for how the ECU controls things at present and the Stoltec reflash sounds like it addresses every issue I have with regards to engine/throttle characteristics.
 

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It is not like a car where they plug into the ecu for every service.
There is not a diagnostic port, so the stealership would have to pull the tank and unplug the ecu to even be able to see a change.
I have the flash and consider it very much worth the minor risk.
 
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my understanding with any aftermarket part it would only void the warranty to the part that has been modified. It will not void your whole warranty just the one on your ECU. One question I would like to know is if the factory ESU has a map counter so it counts how many times the ECU has been flashed. If it doesn't then if you ever have an issue just reflash it back to stock before you take it in for service.
 

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Now you have room to undo the fuel line, electrical plug, and vent lines. Be prepared to get a small amount of gas out of the fuel line.

Once these are off, pull the tank straight up and set if somewhere safe!

The hardest part for me was removing the small vent lines since they were stuck pretty well to the tank, but you can use a small flat head screwdriver to help slide them down.
You do not need to completely remove the tank to remove, or re-install the ECU. I left all of the fuel and vent hoses and any other connections in tact, and just lifted and rotated the tank 90 degrees to the left, and then gently set it on the frame. I then removed the ECU, and once that was out, roughly re-positioned the tank back to the original position, but just let it sit there until the ECU was returned. Reverse the process to install ECU and put the bike back together. It's really pretty simple!

Mike
 

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It is not like a car where they plug into the ecu for every service.
There is not a diagnostic port, so the stealership would have to pull the tank and unplug the ecu to even be able to see a change.
I have the flash and consider it very much worth the minor risk.
there's a connector for the yamaha diagnostics tool in the tail section.

but i agree, it's nothing to lose sleep over.
 

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Easier to leave the two side screws holding the tank to the frame in, remove the rear screws and pivot the tank up in back. Use a ~6" piece of wood to support the rear up and you can remove the hoses and fuel line. Set the rear back down, remove the side screws and remove the tank.
 

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It would void the warranty on the part modified (obviously), and potentially any part related to/controlled by the ECU that has been proven to have failed due to the modified ECU.

It's the warranting body's responsibility to prove that any modifications you've done are contributing to any issues/failures you have. You can review the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

So, if your cam chain tensioner fails, they cannot say "oh, well you flashed your ECU, so your warranty is voided and we're not going to replace it." Because the cam chain tensioner is not controlled by or connected to the ECU.

1) the likelihood of them knowing you ever flashed your ECU is slim to none, unless you tell them or you put the stoltec moto sticker on it.

2) even if they find out, it doesn't void your entire warranty.

3) the likelihood of the flashed ECU causing a part failure or other issues is also slim to none.

The final risk vs. reward call is up to you... personally, having done the flash myself, the reward FAR exceeds the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well all that makes me feel better about it. So I guess I'll just adopt a, "Don't ask, Don't tell" policy, lol. Anybody wanna weigh in on the results of their flash?
The three things that have bugged me from the start are:
1) difficulty being smooth on upshifts when just cruising.
2) hard de-acceleration when lifting throttle.
3) lag in throttle response to my input when done quickly. Like if I suddenly twist full boogie there is a momentary hesitation, not a bog but a delay. My Dodge Nitro does the same thing. I assume its due to the nature of drive/ride by wire.
 

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#1 & #2 cured. #3, I never really noticed before, but I wasn't particularly fond of using Std or A maps before. I don't notice a lag now.

Mike
 

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In the current issue of Motorcyclist Magazine, Ari Henning continues with his long term review. The first thing he did was a re-flash of the ECU. He claims the one he got doesn't do much below 4500 rmps. Maybe Nick or someone who has the Stoltec can elaborate on that issue?
 
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