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First of all, I apologize if this question is covered somewhere else...I tried to search...

NTL, I haven't been able to keep up with the deluge of posts and threads about ECU mods recently but after reaching 1500 miles on this bike, I would now like to find a way to fix the ECU so that the herky-jerky stuff goes away. That's all I want... I don't need any more power, any more torque, any more speed... just a smoother throttle in STD mode. These days, I usually just switch to B mode and ride there which might be the long term solution for me but there is still some of the "herky-jerky", even in B mode, plus I have to remember to switch to B mode every time the ignition goes off... trivial but a pain, over and over and over.

I can appreciate the desire of more aggressive riders to get the most performance possible but surely there is a crowd of us that needs a simple solution to the "herky-jerky" stuff?

Thanks!
 

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Adjust all of the slack out of your throttle cable first, get a G2 throttle tamer profile Y400, and get your ECU flashed by the people Stoltec recommends. The standard ECU reflash without fueling changes smoothes the acceleration and deceleration along with removing the restrictions. If the herky-jerky in B is when you're transitioning from off throttle to back on - then it's your slack. The tamer will help with everything up to 1/2 throttle, the reflash helps with all acceleration and deceleration. You'll still have full power in A mode - and the added bonus to the tamer is that it ramps up to a quick turn throttle after 1/2 way. You can choose to start in A or STD after the reflash - I wish I could default to starting in B. I carry my 7 year old daughter a lot - and I'd rather have to remember to take it out of B to play than to remember to put it into B to carry a passenger.
 

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You can choose to start in A or STD after the reflash - I wish I could default to starting in B.
they can't set it to start in 'b', but it's possible to swap the throttle maps around so that 'std' has the 'b' maps and vice versa. so starting in 'std' would functionally be starting in 'b'. but that probably falls under 'custom tune' and you'd pay more for it.
 

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I would do the G2 throttle tamer first and see what you think. It helps A LOT. I ride in A mode now exclusively unless I'm cruising a parking lot looking for a space which I then switch to B mode just to make the slow speed maneuvers that much more easy (not that its hard in A mode with the G2).
 

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+1 on adjusting throttle cable slack first. Made a pretty significant improvement on mine.

 

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I would recommend getting the flash that Stoltec \ flash tune offers. I personally wouldn't mess with the throttle tensions ect...
 

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I would do the G2 throttle tamer first and see what you think. It helps A LOT. I ride in A mode now exclusively unless I'm cruising a parking lot looking for a space which I then switch to B mode just to make the slow speed maneuvers that much more easy (not that its hard in A mode with the G2).
I saw few people doing this mod. What's special about it?
 

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I would recommend getting the flash that Stoltec \ flash tune offers. I personally wouldn't mess with the throttle tensions ect...
Nothing to do with tension, just removing the slack so you aren't slamming the butterflies open when all the slack is taken up part twist. Instead you are opening the butterflies as soon as you begin to twist the throttle.
 

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My understanding is it is a mechanical alternative to what is accomplished (throttle wise) with the flash.
I don't have the bike with me today. FZ09 is a 1/4T throttle or not? (FZ6R is...) So the tammer still have the same stroke but start slow at the beginning and get faster past 1/2 stroke? That's nice.
 

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I saw few people doing this mod. What's special about it?
From their website:

"The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation."

I was skeptical at first but for $64.00 shipped I figured what the hell. I was really surprised how much it helped. Its not the cure for the issue but it does a good job of masking the problem.
 

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I don't have the bike with me today. FZ09 is a 1/4T throttle or not? (FZ6R is...) So the tammer still have the same stroke but start slow at the beginning and get faster past 1/2 stroke? That's nice.
09 is 1/4 turn throttle. the tamer with the y400 cam will be a bit larger turn, because the first half of the turn is longer (which is what makes it more easy to control) but the second half is stock.

i did something similar to my 'b' mode throttle map using the flash-tune software. i merged the first ~25% of stock 'b' mode with the last ~75% of stock 'std' mode, then smoothed out the middle section. so for the first 1/4 turn it feels like 'b' mode, but then starts ramping up and by about 2/3 turn, it becomes 'std' mode (linear 1:1).
 

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From their website:

"The Throttle Tamer incorporates a non-linear ratio between hand throttle rotation and carburetor or throttle body opening. The “pulley”, or as we call it, “cam” pulls the throttle cable as the rider rotates the grip/tube. By altering the conventional, circular shaped cam, a vast improvement in control is achieved.

The Throttle Tamer has a cam with a reduced radius initially, which requires a slightly farther rotation to achieve the same carburetor or throttle body opening position as a stock throttle. This virtually eliminates the jerky “throttle snatch” especially evident in modern fuel injected street bikes. The radius increases or “ramps up” after ½ throttle to keep overall rotation requires to reach full throttle at or near stock rotation."

I was skeptical at first but for $64.00 shipped I figured what the hell. I was really surprised how much it helped. Its not the cure for the issue but it does a good job of masking the problem.
Thanks.

Now you need to try this with a EJK fuel controller... LOL
 

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Do you think it would benefit me even though I have a stock exhaust? I'm still on the fence if I want to go aftermarket on an exhaust.
You'll pick up powwwa a bit at mid range even with a stock exhaust. Then if you want to upgrade down the road... 2 min. fix while your bike is warming up. :) That will fix the dip in the 4-5K RPM.

While I was looking around. R1 or R6 throttle tube seems to be very popular on other bike too. 1/5T and 1/6T. Interesting possibilities and options.

Text Line Design Diagram Parallel
 

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If the you have not removed the slop from the throttle cable, the reflash won't remove it for you.

I recommend the following because it is simple, easy and cheap:
1) remove the slop in the throttle cable - free and takes a minute or so to do
2) remove the slop in the throttle cable position sensor - free and takes 20-30 minutes and a 8mm socket to do
3) G2 throttle tamer - about $100 and takes about 20 minutes to remove the old throttle tube, remove the grip from the old throttle tube and install the new throttle tube and reinstall the grip. You can cut that time in half if you replace the grip but I like the stock grips so I kept mine.
4) ECU reflash - $200 and you have to ship your ecu and be unable to ride for a week or more.
 

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If the you have not removed the slop from the throttle cable, the reflash won't remove it for you.

I recommend the following because it is simple, easy and cheap:
1) remove the slop in the throttle cable - free and takes a minute or so to do
2) remove the slop in the throttle cable position sensor - free and takes 20-30 minutes and a 8mm socket to do
3) G2 throttle tamer - about $100 and takes about 20 minutes to remove the old throttle tube, remove the grip from the old throttle tube and install the new throttle tube and reinstall the grip. You can cut that time in half if you replace the grip but I like the stock grips so I kept mine.
4) ECU reflash - $200 and you have to ship your ecu and be unable to ride for a week or more.
perfect response right here!
 

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If you send it to FlashTune, ask them to load the map that was developed back in May, thats the best one. There is no fuel re-map, just throttle, temp, AIS and A,B,STD engine brake adjustments. Also, there is a bit of cruise control in B-mode.
 

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If you send it to FlashTune, ask them to load the map that was developed back in May, thats the best one. There is no fuel re-map, just throttle, temp, AIS and A,B,STD engine brake adjustments. Also, there is a bit of cruise control in B-mode.
That would be the best so that I could use the EJK for fueling but when I talked to Kirk with Flash Tune he made it sound like there wasn't an option for a flash that didn't change fueling.
 
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