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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
*Disclaimer* For informational purposes only. I make no guarantees as to the safety of this mod as it requires modifying the assemblies beyond their original purposes. Don't attempt this yourself. Advanced knowledge and skills required especially around thread lengths for strength, % of engagement of threads as well as for self-locking nuts and thread pitch needed.

FZ6R Handlebar Retrofit

With that out of the way... I have done a lot to the bike for ergos and wind protection so I a diving in to posting mid-build. I took a C6/C7 injury at work about 2 years ago and am still currently recovering from it. Basically, it destroyed the nerves that ran from my neck to my right hand causing severe lack of strength and immobility in the ring and pinky fingers in particular. Recovered mostly from that as nerves regrow albeit slow especially for a 43 year old. I had run into issues with sporadic cramping in said hand when riding the FZ-09. I could eliminate it by angling the stock bars down but would end up getting my hands pinched before full lock. After looking at various bars, I decided the FZ6R's would fit the bill. What I did was simple for me as I have access for a machine shop. It would prove very difficult if I had to do it out of my garage with standard garage tools for equal results.

1. Picked up fully intact FZ6R risers off eBay ($30 shipped)
2. Picked up new FZ6R handlebars ($56 shipped)
3. Picked up so unpolished 3003 0.125" aluminum from McMaster ($10)

On the risers, I had to cut off a chunk of the studs and run a die to cut the threads. I mounted them in the furthest away from rider position. I then took tons of measurements on the stock gauge cluster mount and duplicated it on the 3003 but offset to stock so it is nearly centered. I then duplicated the bend angle for the new gauge cluster bracket. Had to machine off approximately 3/32" off the bar clamps and used rubber stock to isolate and clamp the gauge cluster in. I drilled the locating hole for the throttle tube. I removed the locating pins from the thumb controls so I could get it properly setup (used 2 windings of electrical tape so the said controls could clamp down tightly and not shift).

The good is it did exactly what I wanted. A perfectly neutral positioning of my hands so there is no fatigue. The bad is now I know why the cluster was offset... it makes it difficult to insert and turn the key. I probably will redo the cluster mount to set it back to the right but it works fine for now.

And for pics...


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