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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...Saturday~ great sunny day down here in san diego, did my first oil change using K&N 204 OIL FILTER AND PRO HONDA HP4M SYNTHETIC/PETROLUEM BLEND WITH MOLY 10W40,

(why used synthetic/petroleum blend? No reason, just been doing what my pops been doing since back in the days as well as him being a big motorcycle enthusiasts, and i also did this to my 2007GSXR 600),

when i do my next oil change though at 2000miles, i will be switching to pure synthetic mobil, (im a mobil 1 guy) and will be sticking with the K&N 204 oil filter.

Doing this oil chage, i was actually able to loosen up the oem oil filter with my hands, i was expecting it to be pretty tight and using an oil filter wrench, but i did not :).. the oil drain plug though, pretty damn tight had to use pipe bar:), i also did cleaned and brushed out my chain and lubed it up with some motul

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This oil change went very smooth, not like my 2007 GSXR600, everything on that bike was damn overtorque down tight.

My current mods right now on my 2014 Yamaha FZ 09:
Graves Frame Sliders
Graves Swingarm Spools
Graves Fender Eliminator
Akrapovic Carbon Full Exhaust System
Dynojet Power Commander V

Still have not installed my after market air filter

Currently waiting on my Rizoma Dark Tinted Windscreen since i returned back my PUIGG

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Next on my modlist: will be looking into the block off plates and focusing on suspenions and brakelines (any suggestions on this fellow FZ09'ers)
 

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Good for you changing your own oil. I think a lot of people are intimidated but it really is very easy on the FZ. Plus you get the satisfaction of knowing it's done right. There was a thread a few months ago about a guy that had it done at the dealer and a few miles later the drain plug fell out. Yikes. I don't know if your Gixxer was like my wife's but you have to take part of the fairing off to get to the filter.:p
 

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I hate oem oil filters. They are so hard to get off. You got lucky.
 

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pretty sure that is a powerbronze belly pan.

I'm unsure if switching to even semi synthetic this early is a smart idea? My understanding is that even using an aggressive break in method - you still need the rings to set over time which is why guys don't put full synthetic until 5k or so.

I could be completely full of sh!t but that's just what i've read.
 

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I just changed the oil on my buddies EBR 1190SX. It had a left and right drain bolt as well as an internal filter that you have to make sure is seated properly prior to tightening the two bolts on the cover. The level sight window is super cool and reads with the bike on the kickstand. What a novel concept.

Here is where we ran into a problem. I told him to stop a mile down the road and check for leaks, and sure to right, it was leaking quite a bit near the oil filter cover and on the left side of the tire. He came back and I pulled the filter and made sure it was in correctly, and off he goes, only to have it happen again. I cleaned everything off, ran the engine, and low and behold, one of the case bolts above the filter was dripping oil. Somehow the bolt was just loose enough after I opened up the filter to allow oil to leak.

Let me tell you that this was lucky timing. He could have crashed his brains out any other time. The point I am trying to make is ALWAYS do a short, straight shakedown ride to check your work when you change your oil, and especially if someone at the dealership does it. Never trust their skill.
 

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I changed my oil three times with good old cheap Yamalube by one thousand miles, then with Mobil 1 4T synthetic. I use the Motoman break-in method, which is very much like how I broke in my motocross race bikes. I have absolutely zero oil consumption and a bike that runs like a raped ape. My CBR954RR was the only bike that I ever broke in easily, and it always let oil by the rings. Never again.
 

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I changed my oil three times with good old cheap Yamalube by one thousand miles, then with Mobil 1 4T synthetic. I use the Motoman break-in method, which is very much like how I broke in my motocross race bikes. I have absolutely zero oil consumption and a bike that runs like a raped ape. My CBR954RR was the only bike that I ever broke in easily, and it always let oil by the rings. Never again.
you switched to synthetic after 1k?
 

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Since I was using Dinosaur oil, it was best to change it more frequently. My motivator was to get it broken in with more friction by the first oil change, but the other two changes were to keep the oil fresh and remove all of the metallic particles before I switched to synthetic. I installed a magnetic drain plug when I went to synthetic oil, and I have very minimal metal on it.

Honestly, my bike was broken in by 300 miles and I was riding it full tilt by then.
 

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I switched to synthetic at the 600 mile change. Of course I changed oil at 20 miles and 100 miles prior to the 600 mile change. The first two were dyno oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
pretty sure that is a powerbronze belly pan.

I'm unsure if switching to even semi synthetic this early is a smart idea? My understanding is that even using an aggressive break in method - you still need the rings to set over time which is why guys don't put full synthetic until 5k or so.

I could be completely full of sh!t but that's just what i've read.
Thanks for the answer, yes its a powerbronze belly pan:)
As far as the break-in method, this is coming from my pops, him being a motorcycle enthusiast and a mechanic, did this to my 07' gixer 600 as well, its been good with me :)
 

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Why did you return your Puig fly screen? I'm thinking of ordering the sport (shorter) one but I'd like to hear your thoughts first. How did it do with redirecting the wind?
 
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